93ZM6

Well I am thinking i am gonna rebuild my engine starting maybe this summer or even this spring because i want more power and my engine needs work so i was thinking of buying this kit because it is the best price i have ever seen. Can you guys look at at this website and tell me if this would be a good kit to buy? would i see good power from it? I dont know much abotu strokers, i understand what you need but i dont udnerstand the differences between pistons and cranks and all that. This kit is only 850 dollars? do u think its worth it? Heres the link
http://www.speedomotive.com/Lt-1%203...TY%20MOUSE.htm

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

In that kit for $849, your prety much getting stock quality pistons which are not forged, stock GM rods and a cast crank. You get what your paying for, in this case, not very high quality internals. Welcome though, nice to another 93 owners on here. Concentrate on doing bolt ons for now, worry about the stroker stuff later down the road.

93ZM6

so this kit wouldent last very long or make very much power? it would just basically brign the engine back to what a brand new stock one might be expect for the bigger stroke? what do forged stuff do?

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

To make power you need a good topend, the bottom is more or less along for the ride, yes additional cubes can help make more power but you need a good topend. Heads and cam can add a whole lot of power to a stock shortblock.

93ZM6

I defiantly was going to get a bigger cam and have my stock heads ported for sure also have my intake manifold ported and everything else i mean it would be a complete rebuild top and bottom i was just wondering if this was a good bottom end that might make more power over the stock bottem end?

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

Power is in your top end, not your bottom end. Choose where you put your money wisely.

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

The stock bottom end in an LT1 is exceptionally strong. The 383 kit, IMO, is not worth the money. The 392 kit is worth it, but the 383 is more trouble than it's worth. you can easily gain 30 more rwhp by getting a good head/cam setup on a stock cube LT1. The only diff will be the 383 will be alot of tq and not rev too high, where-as the cammed 350 will climb to 6500-6700 and require a higher rpm launch (i.e. good clutch kit) and deeper gears for good racing. As for the bottom end...I know guys that spray 150 shots every weekend and only replace the rods and mains every winter, and these cars are they're daily drivers. BTW these are all Impala SS's that dip into the 12's with just bolt-ons and juice on stock bottom ends.

GhostZ

Gotta love the misconceptions. No the stock bottom end isn't exceptionally strong....the hyper slugs are garbage, ring lands collapse far too easily, rods aren't much better. Sure the stock crank can handle a bit more which is why quite a few people just bore it over .30 and turn the stock crank instead of spending the money for a forged unit.

Where do you get the idea that a 383 won't spin high? I really hate to sound like a dick but you should really do some research before you offer people advice....this is exactly how common misconceptions circulate throughout message boards. Oh I heard one guy say that strokers can't rev high so it must be true. Absolute fallacy....spin as high as you are making power. Of course if you're wanting to go over 7K you should look into FAST, DFI, etc for fuel enrichment over 7K. Folks with solid roller 383's going well over 7400.

383 not worth it but the 392 is worth it? What pray tell is a 392 kit? How is a 383 more trouble than it's worth? If you're referring to a 396, that is more trouble and more of a PITA over a 383. A 396 requires even more clearancing of both the block and oil pan rails not to mention the added cost of parts over a 383...man the list goes on and on. The main reason people would choose to go with a 396 over a 383 is to be able to say, "yeah, it's a 396".


You can spin it as high as you want and what do you mean a higher RPM launch???? You lauch high enough that you don't bog but not so high that you break them loose.

30 more HP over a 383? Not sure what you're trying to say here but you do realize that the power really is in the heads and cam. Those additional cubes are good for a little extra HP and some more TQ but the power is ALL in the heads/cam.

Really I don't mean to sound like an *** but your post made absolutely no sense and was full of more misinformation than the Fox news channel.

SSmoky01

Hey GhostZ, good advice.

93ZM6

Well i just wanted to rebuild my entire engine, partly for fun and mostly for power, plus it would give me a chance to fix everything i want like a new oil pan and such but i was just thinkin if i had the engine out why not build the entire engine top and bottom so that way i would have essentialy a new engine, i am sort of in it for the fun of the car i am not worried about racing down the track every weekend this would just be a street car to take out on nice days. Also i really like having high torque as aposed to high horsepower but if im building the toip and bottom why not have both? But anywayz if i build the bottom end should i spend the extra money on all forged parts? i guess that was all i am asking. Thanks, ben

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

ok guy. i'll let you live in your world and when you can make your longer stroke motor outspin a shorter stroke motor, I'll believe ya. I have been in the hobby for 25 yrs and have built motors to spin over 9500. Also, been workin on LT1's since 93 and have seen even forged units give way. AS for being stock, the LT1 is exceptionally strong.
Do your homework and tear into a few engines instead of relying on magazine articles and hear-say.
Yes if someone has the money a forged set-up is the way to go, but this guy is on a budget and just looking for some power.
also, there is a company that makes a 392 set up...and a 406 set up. you just know of the POPULAR 383 and 396 stroke kits. besides the clearancing is nothing more than a carbide burr on a die grinder to do...OOHHHH so hard!!!
I've built many of 383's nad had a few to turn up to 7000 rpm, but it required custom cams, push rods, etc.
The reason why bigger stroke motors are popular in the LT1's is due to the Impala SS's. like mine because they are so heavy and that we would rather have Tq than hp to get us moving.

EDIT: but my bad I did mean the 396 originally.

Mikey 97Z M6

iTrader: (37)

93ZM6,
If you're building an engine from scratch, try decide what you intend to do with the engine first. Is it a street car, drag only, dual duty? What kind of performance do you want from it? Any 1/4mi speed or horsepower goals you want to achieve? Once you answer these questions, you can then procede and decide how strong your bottom end needs to be for your power levels, rpm potential etc.. There is a vast difference in rotating assemblies and you need to pick the one that will serve you the best.

As for the other debate going on in this thread, I think you guys are being a bit too "general" in your discussions. First of all, there is a huge difference between an all "forged and balanced" 383 and a cheapo "cast crank/rods/pistons" 383.

Example: would I spin a balanced and forged 383 to 7k,,,, absolutely, and probably daily. Would I spin a 383 to 7k with a cast crank and rods,,,, HELL NO, not if I expected it to live longer than a week or so.

Just my .02
Mike

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

97blkz

iTrader: (1)

WERD!!! My 396 will spin to about 6400 RPMS and still make power , and fully forged or why bother, IMO! LOL I went 396 because with my hook ups the price was not that much different, and chicks dig more inches!

METALBEAST

iTrader: (1)

96blackz28

iTrader: (3)

GhostZ

Well "guy" for one, I do all of my own work but I'm sure you another one of those fools who believe that internet post counts equate to real world knowledge.

Oh boy....here we go. Since you've been "in the hobby for 25 years" please explain to me why you can't make a 383 spin as high as a 350? Are you referring to peak piston velocity? Average? Rod length, stroke and sidewall loading?

The relationship between crank throw and rod length has nothing to do with the misinformation you are spouting.

The key to high RPM's is competent building of the bottom end....keyword balancing, a good valvetrain and heads that will flow.

Sure a shorter stroke is better for extremely high RPM's i.e. CUP and F1 but I don't think anyone plans on building an LT1 to spin 10K+ and stating that the 383 "not rev too high" is absolute BS. We are talking about LT1's here, not imports and not F1.

As I said before the key is balancing and having a valvetrain that will handle what you put to it. Requires custom cams to spin above 7K? Nope...there are off the shelf solid roller grinds meant to make power above that. ****, the GM847 and GTP-6 which aren't custom grinds will make power above that point.

His wanting a budget stroker is far from the point of everything you stated. You want to start throwing out number to back your claims, let's start as I am more than happy to go toe to toe with the garbage that you're posting.

Let's go over some of the things you have posted shall we...."392 is worth it but a 383 is more trouble". How is extra clearancing, aftermarket oil pan a MUST and more expensive parts worth it especially when the gains are really negligible?

"The only diff will be the 383 will be alot of tq and not rev too high, where-as the cammed 350 will climb to 6500-6700 and require a higher rpm launch" Displacement is a miniscule factor when you are talking about those RPM's...the deciding factor is the top end, NOT the bottom end. And what is this requiring a higher RPM launch garbage? You launch at the point between where you will bog and where you break the tires loose. The cam has NOTHING to do with what at RPM's you launch.

"AS for being stock, the LT1 is exceptionally strong" Exceptionally compared to what? All it takes is a little bit of detonation to send the hyper slugs to heaven. Exceptionally strong....I guess that's why anyone who runs a decent sized shot or any fair amount of FI has either built the bottom end ahead of time or is looking for a rebuild VERY soon.

"there is a company that makes a 392 set up" You don't need a company to make a 392 setup, you just bore it .010 over and use a 3.875" crank.

"besides the clearancing is nothing more than a carbide burr on a die grinder to do...OOHHHH so hard!!!" Doesn't sound like he'll be doing the machining and assembly himself therefor there is extra machining not to mention paying more for an aftermarket fuel pan that with room for the crank.

"I've built many of 383's nad had a few to turn up to 7000 rpm, but it required custom cams, push rods, etc." As I said...it doesn't take an custom grind, there are countless custom grinds that make power over 7K. When building, you should use hardened pushrods, aftermarket lifters and springs that will handle the cam anyway. As I said before, you also need the heads that will support the cam.

"The reason why bigger stroke motors are popular in the LT1's is due to the Impala SS's" Um.....no.

I am no magazine racer....I'm fully prepared to lay out some numbers and show you as many examples as you would like to disprove the crap you are spouting. I've been doing my homework for years....it appears that you are just spouting the same misinformation that has been floating around message boards for years without doing the research yourself.

GhostZ

Oh and if a shorter stroke is so much more beneficial why don't you see many people destroking the LT1? Really any gains you get you get from friction loss on the shorter stroke you'll lose in torque in the lower RPM's. Most people build their LT1's for the street and/or strip and there my friend that low RPM torque is a big factor.

Have fun....and by the way Tankers > Engineers

slowmofo

iTrader: (6)

Mikey 97Z M6

iTrader: (37)

Without Engineers, you guys would still be throwing rocks and sharp sticks LOL.

Mike