LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

383 Stroker Build, any thoughts?

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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 09:04 AM
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Default 383 Stroker Build, any thoughts?

Hey guys.

I'm planning on doing a 383 LT1 stroker with cast crank and rods, and forged flat-top pistons, CR right around 10:1.

On top of it I'm going to set a LE1 package (the CA emissions variant of the cam, which is just as easy to pass as a HOTcam). For those of you who don't know what that is, check out www.eportworks.com. I hear alot of good things about Lloyd Elliot.

The cam is only slightly larger than the CC305 according to Lloyd, he said in an email to me "It has a lil more duration but a WIDE LSA with -1 degree of overlap." He keeps the specs secret.

This will be pumped out through headers to a 3" bullet muffler exhaust. Coming into the car will be the stock intake/TB with a CAI. Maybe a RA 1 setup whenever I get the money.

Of couse all other supporting mods are there (injectors/tune/etc.).

I'm also planning on pushing a 150 shot, hence the forged pistons.

So what kind of power do you guys think I'll put out? I'm hoping for something in the neighborhood of 400 RWHP N/A. Realistically I'll guess 380 N/A though.

Hoping for good times too, any thoughts?
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 09:15 AM
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For what your planning you dont have to go all out on internals, a good cast crank with a 3.75 stroke will be fine, Scat makes a good unit as does Eagle both retail for around 250$. For rods, if your on a budget look in to eagle SIR rods or perhaps there H beams if you want to spend a little extra. If money is very tight, it is possible to reuse your stock connecting rods, have a machine shop check them out and get a set good rod bolts for them, key to this is not to spin the motor to high if you reuse the stock rods, but with that little of a cam I dont see that happeneing. For Pistons, stick to a good forged piston and you will be fine. What other suporting mods do you have? California prety strict, I would say get te Jet Hot LTs, but I dont think they carry a California Air Resource Board number on them. I do believe that the AS&M do, you will need to ditch your stock stall, a 2800 should be fine with your set up. Then comes tunning, your going to need to get it tunned, esp if you want to pass smog. Far as times go, thats drag racing, get some gears, 3.73s will work good, you will also need some tires for it because you wont have any hope in hooking street radials
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 10:30 AM
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Sorry this is a little off-topic.. but do my eyes deceive me? a Female LT1 nut?! is that a picture of you or a GF or something... cause if your a chick...will you marry me?! lol jk
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by z28boysteve
Sorry this is a little off-topic.. but do my eyes deceive me? a Female LT1 nut?! is that a picture of you or a GF or something... cause if your a chick...will you marry me?! lol jk

come on now Steve, dont scare the newbies away
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 11:34 AM
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haha yeah I am a chick, but I'm over in CA

Thanks for the thoughts bizzz, I was planning on going with the Eagle stroker kit, but substituting in forged pistons. I see them for around $1000. Perfect price too, just started a great new job and I can easily afford this motor.

Yeah I have to pass CA smog, and I have to get shorties to pass it here. I already have a set so it's all good. Just havn't got the car up on the lift yet to put them in.

So with the correct bolt-ons, think I'm close to 400 RWHP? Lloyd said his setup makes 370-390 rwhp on a 350 application, and I've got 33 more cubes

Also I have a 12-bolt sitting my in garage with 3.73s, waiting to go in, so no worries there. I also have a 2500 stall converter that my boyfriend (sorry steve) got me for our anniversary.
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 12:05 PM
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You should talk to Lloyd but I'm guessing u should ditch that 2500 stall and get something around 3200. You'll be much happier at the track with that! I already made that mistake of picking to small of a stall . GO BIG OR GO HOME!!!
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 01:06 PM
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Yeah you should definitely ditch that little boyfriend, I mean converter... lol jk
but in all seriousness a 3500 would prolly be perfect... But make sure you dont cheap out on it... I swapped out from a cheap converter, to a good Dynamic converter, that wasnt even built for my car, and it slashed .4 off my 1/4 mile times. cheap converters SUCK
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 01:33 PM
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"The cam is only slightly larger than the CC305 according to Lloyd, he said in an email to me "It has a lil more duration but a WIDE LSA with -1 degree of overlap." He keeps the specs secret."
can u tell more about the cam?
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 01:34 PM
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haha, i just asked him and he says he can exchange it at the speedshop that he bought it at. They're really cool, they'll take stuff back for credit as long as it wasn't used and wasn't special order. And it wasn't cheap, he won't tell me how much it was, but he's like that.. expensive good quality stuff

I'm not sure what I'm going to go with yet, since this car has to be daily driveable. Yeah, my 400HP 383 daily driver Bah, I can afford the GAS! Only $2.50 a gallon here for 91 octane hehe

What do you guys think I'll be able to pull in the quarter? 3.73 Posi rear with Nitto DRs.
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by irishprid
"The cam is only slightly larger than the CC305 according to Lloyd, he said in an email to me "It has a lil more duration but a WIDE LSA with -1 degree of overlap." He keeps the specs secret."
can u tell more about the cam?

This is what he sent me:

"I offer an emissions version of my LE1 cam that has a wider LSA and a lil less overlap. This will make it similar to the Hot Cam as far as passing emissions. If you do not have to pass a sniff test, we can use the more common LE1 cam and make another 8-10 HP. I keep the specs to myself until purchased but they are slightly larger than the CC 305 cam (220/230 544/.544 114 LSA). You will get a cam card with all specs once purchased."

So unfortunatly I don't have the exact specs. I'm sure SOMEONE on here has an LE1 cam?
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 01:55 PM
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Well, HP is all relative.. two cars.... SAME setup... one in say Cali, the other at HRP (houston raceway park fastest track in the country) who will run faster??? the one at HRP of course.. Even if bolth made 400flywheel or rear wheel or whatever HP on a dyno, the one in the better air is making a hell of alot more power Uncorrected.. I would say with 400 RWHP uncorrected (your making that power at the moment in time) with a 3000 stall, and getting some sort of traction... a high 11 to low 12, traction very depending..
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 10:16 PM
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What kinda heads are we talking here? You'll need some head work for 400 RWHP. I would also personally stick with at least a stock CR of 10.5:1.
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Old Mar 25, 2005 | 08:15 PM
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i think youll be a little less than 400 at the wheels. the hot cam isnt really designed to support a 383 and if this cam is only slightly bigger....

i think youll be 350-370 at the wheels at least. being a 383 wont give you more hp only more torque and itll bring the torque curve down lower in the rpm range than the same setup on a 350.

all and all i think youve got a good solid setup planned.
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Old Mar 27, 2005 | 09:55 PM
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The cam is a tad small I'd think to support 400rwhp and the heads are where the power is made any idea on the #'s for them? Plus an auto and a stall Rob/hide some of the hp numbers , but the track times show differently. good luck either way.
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 01:03 PM
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The flow on the heads in the LE1 package is about 255/180
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