Just changed the opti becasue I thought thats what it was.. But it seems it didnt fix it.. This usually happens when its warmed up.. WHat happens is like when I take off from a stop, it sounds like im hitting a rev limiter(best way to describe it) then it bogs and then just jumps and takes off. It does it free revving too. Also if I come to a stop just after this happens it trys to die and it idles around 4-600 .. When im cruising it back fires. when I press the gas to speed up nothing happens, it just doesnt go anywhere, then pops and goes.. I dont get it. The wires and plugs and opti are new.. I guess im working my way back.. I have a Crane Cams HI6 fireball ignition and MSD coil. The coil looks like its eatin up a bit on the tip where the coil wire snaps on. When I took off the coil wire today it had some white dust on the tip of the coil.. I have a stock coil.. but would this hurt me to put it on for now with my ignition system?

 

dont forget you also have a ICM right there with the coil. The ignition control module cause cause really scrwey things like this to happen. I do not know how to test it though. its a 75 dollar part so just swapping it out is a shot, bit only one i would take after looking at everything else.

and i am not sure if you can put your factory coil back on there with that crane box. i would think its ok, but i dont know. maybe the crane instructions say something about it

 

Well I tried to find the problem..
-I took the Crane box off and left the coil on there.. still did it..
-Changed the coil back to stock, plugged the ignition box back in, still did it.
-unplugged the ignition with the stock coil and IT STILL DID IT..
-checked all my wires, has new plugs and new opti.. Only thing could be is the ICM.

 

When you say that, do you mean it runs fine when it's cold?

 

with some of the systems youre describing and saying it only does it after being warmed up, closed cycle, i am going to blame O2 Sensors. A friends car had very similar problems with the stuttering and ridiculous throttle response, we came to the conclusion it was the 02s; changed them and everything was fine.

Be careful with how hard you get into the throttle. We did an accidental 180 in the middle of 2 lanes of traffic because of that problem.

 

I Had a Problem That sounded similar to yours. Changed everything it seemed. It was free reving, back firing and only did it after the car warmed up. I tried another throttle body off a friends car, thinking the Idle Air Control Valve was bad. Seemed to clear it all up. Might want to try that.

 

Yea the O2s have about 7500 miles on them, AC delco brand i guess (Bought them from GM)..

Throttle body im going to try..

Tonight I changed my plugs and wires again.. I bought moroso ultra 40 race wires and a taylor opti kit and used the ovc wire looms and redid them.. What a friggin difference! I punched it once on the high way and I have to say my car has NEVER pulled that hard before.. But then i was driving home and it started to stutter again.. Only did it a TINY bit though and then i took it home.. its idleing really low and the lights are starting to dim till I rev it up a bit.. I think it might be my altenator.. im going to take it off and go have it checked today at napa.. While im driving im seeing just above the middle line on the volt gauge on the dash. I checked everywhere I could think of for a vac leak and couldnt find one anywhere.. its weird how my car just does this sometimes but not all the time.. I dont get how it could be the IAC, doesnt that only work at idle?

 

yes.. when its completly cold it runs good. If I let it sit for about an hour after driving it it runs good for about 5 minutes or so..

 

Yeah thats what I thought also, but it was a few things on mine. I replaced The AIC and it seemed to fix the free reving, im still chasing a miss. Tried the coil, plugs wires ect.. Bought a new opti to try that. I too looked everywhere for a vacum leak, but to no avail. Could just be your opti on its way out.

 

My opti is about 3 days old.. I just replaced that trying to fix this problem..

 

Damn...

 

Had the altenator tested.. It tested fine, battery tested fine.. Still doing this bs.. really pissing me off.. goin to try the IAC valve..

 

Does the check engine light come on at all? And how did you have the battery tested?
If you did the test on the battery yourself with a voltmeter that would not be a proper test. I had the exact same thing happen and it through up codes that indicated the high and low frequency could not be read on the OPTI-CRAP. The battery I had was an optima red top and only about 3-4 month old but I don't drive the car very much. I took the battery into Advance Auto and had them test the battery under load. this test is better because it puts a load on it and it is not getting any help from the alternator like it would on the car. If it were running of course, plus it can be hard to put a good heavy load on the battery while it not running.
If it is tripping code do the old paper clip trick and count the times the check engine light blinks. or you could go to Auto Zone and see it they give away those free test keys and code books. That what I have. I think the code were a 28 and 36 but don’t quote me. I was about convert to a DIS ignition because I am on my 4th distributor. But all I did is put in a new battery and all was well. Now I just drive the car more to keep the battery up in check.

 

I used to have a v6 camaro before my firebird, my lights every once in a while would start to dim and the electrical system would act funny, I went to autozone and had the alternator tested and they said it was acting perfectly, I tried screwing around with a bunch of stuff and I could not fix the problem, so I eventually just went ahead and replaced the alternator, and completly fixed the problem. So even though napa said your alternator is fine, that might not be true, I think(not sure) you can get one from autozone and if that dosnet solve the problem you can return it.

Also, I remember a while ago shoebox on cz28.com told me that if my alternator is going bad it can cause the car to stumble and sometimes idle funny.

I think the alternator might still be the problem, so I guess try to replace that if nothing else works for you.
Good Luck!

 

Twas the rocker arms.. Readjusted and running fine!

 

wow! glad to hear it, but never would have guessed that. Was your valvetrain making any more noise then usual? how did you finnnaly find out it was the rockers?

 

good deal, glad u got it back to norm!

 

I take that back.. It ran good for about 2 hours... Still doing this damn crap.. No the valve train wasnt making noise.. I regrounded the block, changed the fuel filter, cleaned the MAF, checked ALL my grounds and cleaned them.. reset the computer, checked for any burnt wires and I took out the abs fuse to see since i have tcs it messes with timing but it didnt change anything..

At night I can see a halo around the spark plugs. I think thats my problem.. Thats why I checked the grounds.. Im going to change the plugs again right now. Im trying to find the same plug as the autolite 103 but in a different brand.. I dont know what else it could be.. It couldnt be the IAC could it? That only affects idle, right?

 

OK well I changed the plugs again.. This time I switched from autolite 103s to NGK TR6 plugs.. Im not sure they are the same heat range though.. anyone know? anyhow its pouring rain here so I have yet to tell if that was my problem, no more halo around the spark plugs though....

 

Drove it and the problem is still there.. I changed the O2s and its still there.. I also changed the Knock sensor and reset the computer.. Its still there. the reason I changed it was because its showing false knock on datamaster.. Its showing 5-7 degrees of retard and the knock count is going up.. I have checked to see if ANYTHING was hitting.. the only thing I noticed was that the passenger side header is a bit close to the K member... Also the bracket that holds the traction control box on the manifold snapped.. The Traction control modual is just sitting on the valve cover. I checked EVERYwhere for anykind of vacume leak and couldnt find one(again).. Boost/vac guage is still showing the same as it always has.. The BLMS for the long term fuel counts are at 108 at idle. Its also picking up false knock in open loop.. Everything runs ok in open loop then when it switches over to closed the idle drops and the car throws a tantrum.. any ideas? Sensor or wire of some sort is messed up i think.. but then again it still shows knock in open loop so it might be just something hitting something.