Estimated cost of building a 383 stroker???
06-30-2005, 12:14 PM
#2
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It depends on what you want done with it I have almost 10K tied up into mine (1700 h/c, 3500 in the bottom end, then the rest is all the "little stuff" that adds up quick. do want a forged bottom end, what rods do you want
(I beam or H-beam) what type of power do you want. will it be street/ strip, a daily driver, or all track. It all adds up REALLY FAST but it will be fun when its done
(I beam or H-beam) what type of power do you want. will it be street/ strip, a daily driver, or all track. It all adds up REALLY FAST but it will be fun when its done
06-30-2005, 08:53 PM
#5
Its a questions that is always asked. How much would it cost.
Well long story short using cheap parts, maybe your own labor and minimal machining it could be had as low as 2,000. But thats not the norm. A good and honest short block should be in the 4-5k range. The next step is heads and valve train thats another 3-4k (including heads, porting, rockers, lifters, cam pushrods, timing chain) Now you should have a stout little motor.
Now we get into bolt on mods to take advantage of the new found cubes, ranging from induction mods all the way to the exhaust. Also we must not forget.... TUNING!! thats a few more duckets there.
Then we travel the land of suspension which is not all that expensive but critcal in getting that rubber to the road and keeping it there. Now it will be a great time for a rebuild on the tranny, 12 bolt rear and custom driveshaft (stocker is too long and has the wrong size u joint)
Reason why I say all this is that it isnt just the motor that makes the car, its all the mods that support the engine. I have learn everything that hard way with mine. I still run a lt4 hotcam (not the best 383 cam but i got emissions) but I make due with what I got. Just plan on spending some money.
Well long story short using cheap parts, maybe your own labor and minimal machining it could be had as low as 2,000. But thats not the norm. A good and honest short block should be in the 4-5k range. The next step is heads and valve train thats another 3-4k (including heads, porting, rockers, lifters, cam pushrods, timing chain) Now you should have a stout little motor.
Now we get into bolt on mods to take advantage of the new found cubes, ranging from induction mods all the way to the exhaust. Also we must not forget.... TUNING!! thats a few more duckets there.
Then we travel the land of suspension which is not all that expensive but critcal in getting that rubber to the road and keeping it there. Now it will be a great time for a rebuild on the tranny, 12 bolt rear and custom driveshaft (stocker is too long and has the wrong size u joint)
Reason why I say all this is that it isnt just the motor that makes the car, its all the mods that support the engine. I have learn everything that hard way with mine. I still run a lt4 hotcam (not the best 383 cam but i got emissions) but I make due with what I got. Just plan on spending some money.
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06-30-2005, 10:48 PM
#8
Well for me it will cost me alittle over $2000
Assembly 396 kit from a Eagle Dealer I know. about $1490 or something. And the balance assembly and machine work from a good shop I know. But I have figured in about 2800 just in case.
you can get a solid short block 396 or 383 from Golen for $3500. And that's an awesome setup.
Assembly 396 kit from a Eagle Dealer I know. about $1490 or something. And the balance assembly and machine work from a good shop I know. But I have figured in about 2800 just in case.
you can get a solid short block 396 or 383 from Golen for $3500. And that's an awesome setup.
07-01-2005, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
... and custom driveshaft (stocker is too long and has the wrong size u joint)...
07-01-2005, 01:01 PM
#10
Sorry, let me clarify. A eventuality of a 383 based fbody will be a 12 bolt. If you dont race it and beat the crap out of the 10 bolt your the minority. But as you progress you will eventually get one. It took me 2 seasons of racing to dust the posi.
When you get the 12 bolt, you either modify the stocker by splicing on a Napa u-joint (i forget the part number) to match it with the 1350 series yoke on the 12 bolt.
http://www.fbody.com/tech/details.cgi?id=13
but then the weak link will be the driveshaft once you start to get it to hook hard.... so to cover all bases a 383 is only as good as the mods that support it.
When you get the 12 bolt, you either modify the stocker by splicing on a Napa u-joint (i forget the part number) to match it with the 1350 series yoke on the 12 bolt.
http://www.fbody.com/tech/details.cgi?id=13
but then the weak link will be the driveshaft once you start to get it to hook hard.... so to cover all bases a 383 is only as good as the mods that support it.
