Rear Gears
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TECH Apprentice
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Kopavogur ,Iceland
Rear Gears how much trouble is it to put a ring and pinion in the axle? im thinking of puting it in myself so im just wondering if its doable with household tools
TECH Regular
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 444
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From: Bahrain
I prefer to take the whole rearend out to do gears. A pinion depth gauge would be nice to have but it's not essential, a dial indicator for endplay is important. Make sure to get the full installation kit, which should have different sized shims and marking compound. This is somewhat of a trial and erreor procedure to finding the right shims for the pinion and carrier. It would be much better to have an old honed pinion bearing. When both the pattern and endplay are good the new bearing can be pressed in.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2005
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I had my 4.10's done yesterday by an expert in his garage. It took him 4 hours and he a press and some other tear down tools. For how much its going to cost for gears, install kit, time, and swearing i'd say take them to a shop. Driveline-solutions in michigan does the install for $475 using AAM gears (dry cut for more strength) and there is no whine whatsoever
Originally Posted by Fujimo84
I had my 4.10's done yesterday by an expert in his garage. It took him 4 hours and he a press and some other tear down tools. For how much its going to cost for gears, install kit, time, and swearing i'd say take them to a shop. Driveline-solutions in michigan does the install for $475 using AAM gears (dry cut for more strength) and there is no whine whatsoever
unless, you have a press and the tools to check the pinion depth, I would not attempt this at home. Me and my did put 3.73 gears in my stock rear at home, but we have a press and the pinion depth gauge and what not. It is a pretty involved process. If you don't have much experience or don't know someone who does i would not attempt it.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 321
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From: Buffalo, N.Y.
I helped do two rear-end swaps..both LT1 F-Bodies going from 2:73's to 3:73's. If you've never done one, helped do one, or at least watched one being done, I wouldn't try it.
The guys I helped do nothing but repair/replace rear-ends 8-hours/day, 5 days/week on everything from cars, to tractor-trailers. They used a turned down pinion crush sleeve so they could do repeated "mock-ups" of the set-up to make sure the ring & pinion were "marking" correctly. Too much "mark" on the heel or toe, on either the drive or coast side of the ring gear, and you've got problems. Sure, it'll run...for a while. There's a definite "trick" to shimming up the carrier correctly. TIR for backlash, at least on the 10-bolt Eaton posi F-Bodies I helped with, was .008"-.012".
The guys I helped do nothing but repair/replace rear-ends 8-hours/day, 5 days/week on everything from cars, to tractor-trailers. They used a turned down pinion crush sleeve so they could do repeated "mock-ups" of the set-up to make sure the ring & pinion were "marking" correctly. Too much "mark" on the heel or toe, on either the drive or coast side of the ring gear, and you've got problems. Sure, it'll run...for a while. There's a definite "trick" to shimming up the carrier correctly. TIR for backlash, at least on the 10-bolt Eaton posi F-Bodies I helped with, was .008"-.012".
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 595
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From: Clarksville,Tn
Changing gears in a rear is not rocket science. A year ago I had never put a set of gears in nor helped anyone do it nor ever seen it done. I've put 2 sets in my car (actually reinstalling now with a spool) and one in my truck with no problems and no whining. There's enough info on the web that you can figure it out yerself. The main thing is to get backlash and wear pattern right. Do some research and you'll see it's not rocket science. The proper tools (press and dial indicator) do help out alot though.
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