Welding a windage tray in to stock oil pan?
#1
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Welding a windage tray in to stock oil pan?
Well, I done bought myself a 383 shortblock over the weekend. See attached pics.
One issue though. The studs on the main caps won't be long enough to bolt a windage tray to. And my headers (SLP single cat) are well known not to clear a Canton oil pan... plus, I don't want to hassle with the Canton (since every one I've ever seen on a car has been absolutely covered in oil - I don't want leaks!). Don't want to change headers, don't want to modify them.
So I want to stay with a stock pan. I want to run a windage tray. I don't want to swap out the main studs. That leaves me with 1 option... welding a windage tray in to the stock pan. I will be running a standard pressure/volume pump... no HV/HP pump here.
Anyone done this? I figure it isn't "rocket science". Set up the windage tray on the bottom of the motor with some spacers, figure out where it needs to mount, measure twice, tack it in to the pan, check for fit, and then fully weld it. Canton does it on their oil pan... why couldn't I? Yes, I'll have to rotate the motor and clearance everything once I get it welded in, but heck... these days it seems that everything I do has me pulling out the angle or die grinder.
One issue though. The studs on the main caps won't be long enough to bolt a windage tray to. And my headers (SLP single cat) are well known not to clear a Canton oil pan... plus, I don't want to hassle with the Canton (since every one I've ever seen on a car has been absolutely covered in oil - I don't want leaks!). Don't want to change headers, don't want to modify them.
So I want to stay with a stock pan. I want to run a windage tray. I don't want to swap out the main studs. That leaves me with 1 option... welding a windage tray in to the stock pan. I will be running a standard pressure/volume pump... no HV/HP pump here.
Anyone done this? I figure it isn't "rocket science". Set up the windage tray on the bottom of the motor with some spacers, figure out where it needs to mount, measure twice, tack it in to the pan, check for fit, and then fully weld it. Canton does it on their oil pan... why couldn't I? Yes, I'll have to rotate the motor and clearance everything once I get it welded in, but heck... these days it seems that everything I do has me pulling out the angle or die grinder.
#2
I use a Canton pan with no problems with oil leaks or header issues. I would buy one if I were you.
Using a stock pan you will need to use a BFH and do some clearancing for the longer stroke and I dont think you will have room to weld a windage tray in a stock pan.
Using a stock pan you will need to use a BFH and do some clearancing for the longer stroke and I dont think you will have room to weld a windage tray in a stock pan.
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Thanks Tony. Yeah, Hooker Longtubes seem to clear just fine, but SLP single cats don't, due to the way they bend around the pan. And I do NOT want to buy new headers, cats, and Y-pipe! That's beyond the scope of the project.
I know there are a bunch of guys running stock pans with 383's with some BFH work. I don't fear the hammer. (though my favorite tool right now is my Hitachi angle grinder). Anyhow, what I was thinking was to get something like the windage tray below (attached pic), fitting it in to the stock pan (via snipping it strategically), and then welding it much like Canton does their windage trays (also attached pic).
I know there are a bunch of guys running stock pans with 383's with some BFH work. I don't fear the hammer. (though my favorite tool right now is my Hitachi angle grinder). Anyhow, what I was thinking was to get something like the windage tray below (attached pic), fitting it in to the stock pan (via snipping it strategically), and then welding it much like Canton does their windage trays (also attached pic).
#4
It just seems to me that swapping out the main studs would be easier.
Take a look at the attatched pic.
That is the Miloden Double Diamond Windage tray.
You can order an accompaning stud kit to make it all work.
Take a look at the attatched pic.
That is the Miloden Double Diamond Windage tray.
You can order an accompaning stud kit to make it all work.
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Thanks for the pic.
I suppose my biggest concerns about stud replacement are (1) are my studs loc-tited in to place (I didn't assemble the motor), and (2) will the 'new' studs be long enough to work with the splayed Callies main caps?
Oh, I found a pic of what I *don't* want.
I suppose my biggest concerns about stud replacement are (1) are my studs loc-tited in to place (I didn't assemble the motor), and (2) will the 'new' studs be long enough to work with the splayed Callies main caps?
Oh, I found a pic of what I *don't* want.
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Well, after a little more digging, there are several more options.
Canton offers a weld-in kit with screen ($35):
http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/...age_trays.html
Stef's offers a weld-in screen kit ($85):
http://www.stefs.com/products/windagescreentraykits.htm
And Moroso offers a cut to fit screen:
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=13100
The Stef's and Canton products look very similar. I wonder if the teflon coating on the Stef's is the only difference.
Canton offers a weld-in kit with screen ($35):
http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/...age_trays.html
Stef's offers a weld-in screen kit ($85):
http://www.stefs.com/products/windagescreentraykits.htm
And Moroso offers a cut to fit screen:
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=13100
The Stef's and Canton products look very similar. I wonder if the teflon coating on the Stef's is the only difference.
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#8
Originally Posted by Tony Shepherd
Using a stock pan you will need to use a BFH and do some clearancing for the longer stroke and I dont think you will have room to weld a windage tray in a stock pan.