Delteq/LTCC and big cam..WTF!
07-23-2006, 12:29 AM
#1
Delteq/LTCC and big cam..WTF! Well I have completely had it! I am guessing it is a big cam issue confusing the controlers?
HOW many people with Big Cams are running the Delteq or LTCC with out any issues? I know Peppe' could not run a LTCC and now it is looking like my car won't run with a Delteq!
I have replaced every singal part of the ignition and the car just won't run for more then a minute with out loosing spark. the MSD says it is loosing signal and the delteq and PCM say every thing is fine!
I have completely removed all the MSD parts and even used different coils and modules. I have replaced the Delteq box and the opti with no change.the only thing I have not changed is the wiring with the delteq and I dought that is it. I have moved the wiring all over just in case there was some kind of interferance and no change.
There is nothing worse then just getting done changing an Opti then to have to tear back into it and change it again...but I am about to!
All this **** is coming out!
HOW many people with Big Cams are running the Delteq or LTCC with out any issues? I know Peppe' could not run a LTCC and now it is looking like my car won't run with a Delteq!
I have replaced every singal part of the ignition and the car just won't run for more then a minute with out loosing spark. the MSD says it is loosing signal and the delteq and PCM say every thing is fine!
I have completely removed all the MSD parts and even used different coils and modules. I have replaced the Delteq box and the opti with no change.the only thing I have not changed is the wiring with the delteq and I dought that is it. I have moved the wiring all over just in case there was some kind of interferance and no change.
There is nothing worse then just getting done changing an Opti then to have to tear back into it and change it again...but I am about to!
All this **** is coming out!
07-23-2006, 04:50 AM
#4
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a guy that i know is getting rid of his due to the fact that the heat from the turbo in the engine compartment is killing everything... and he is putting some serious power through his 383.....
07-23-2006, 10:00 AM
#6
My cam is 240/247. There are people saying there LTCC runn's fine and the others who say they could not get it to work. The reason I put the Delteq and LTCC together is I have seen problems with LTCCs and now I am having a simular issue with my Delteq.
Big cam is the only thing I could come up with. it is the only thing I have more of then most.
I swapped THREE different Opti's today and two Delteq box's. I even changed the harness from the Opti to the Delteq harness. Changed out with all three of my coil systems.
It acts like the Delteq box getts confused and can't read any more.
Some one had mentioned they were having problems with there LTCC and maybe it was OBD-II related so I swapped out with two other OBD-I PCMs and one other OBD-II PCM.
I even checked all the Cables and they all checked out.
I went ahead and started removing all this stuff. I am tired of not being albe to race my car! Hell we have not even started to tune it yet!
I REALLY like the idea of Multi Coils but if they don't stay running WTF good are they? There is no real way around this god fore saken system GM forced on us it would appear....
None of the real fast guys are using the Delteq or the LTCC so it is all coming off the car! Hard to get into the damn nine's if the damn car won't run for nine seconds!
JUST to be clear this is not a HIGH RPM problem.
Big cam is the only thing I could come up with. it is the only thing I have more of then most.
I swapped THREE different Opti's today and two Delteq box's. I even changed the harness from the Opti to the Delteq harness. Changed out with all three of my coil systems.
It acts like the Delteq box getts confused and can't read any more.
Some one had mentioned they were having problems with there LTCC and maybe it was OBD-II related so I swapped out with two other OBD-I PCMs and one other OBD-II PCM.
I even checked all the Cables and they all checked out.
I went ahead and started removing all this stuff. I am tired of not being albe to race my car! Hell we have not even started to tune it yet!
I REALLY like the idea of Multi Coils but if they don't stay running WTF good are they? There is no real way around this god fore saken system GM forced on us it would appear....
None of the real fast guys are using the Delteq or the LTCC so it is all coming off the car! Hard to get into the damn nine's if the damn car won't run for nine seconds!
JUST to be clear this is not a HIGH RPM problem.
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07-23-2006, 01:48 PM
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Cam specs in sig with Delteq. Not huge. I would call it an "upper medium" sized cam. No problems here. I am using non vented opti with old splined style drive. Reckon you might have a problem there since our optis/drives are different?
07-23-2006, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by harvickgm
just put an MSD opti on it and ditch the Delteq..... we need more test results anyways....lol...
07-23-2006, 04:34 PM
#10
You kids and your over-priced "performance ignition up grades"! 
There is no power to be had there. All you need is a new GM Optispark. (NOT a remanufactured piece of crap from the corner auto parts), installed correctly, a good set of plug wires, and a good set of AC or Autolite spark plugs with a reasonable gap. High cylinder pressures = smaller plug gaps. .035" will run as fast as anything. Stock wires are not only great, they are the correct resistance. As long as they will fit around your headers, etc. I know they work with Hookers long tubes, I ran a set of original red LT4 plug wires for four years. Too little resistance and you get too much electrical trash for the computer, too much resistance and you kill caps and rotors. Metal wire in plug wires is for carbureted non-computer cars, not what we have.
If you are burning holes in caps or rotors, you have too much resistance somewhere. Elctricity is lazy, if it's too hard to go through the wire and jump the plug gap, it's gonna burn a hole in something to get to ground. A good old Sun engine analyzer will tell the tale on that deal. Usually ends up being a plug wire with a void or gap inside it someplace, or a spark plug with a resistor problem. Unfortunately being new does not mean actually being good anymore. You can also test those with an ohm meter. Just takes longer if the plugs and wires are installed on the vehicle. If you keep having Opti problems, it would be cheaper to figure out what you are doing wrong, than to throw it all away and go to a whole new aftermarket system. Those almost never have the same reliability in the long run. May very well leave you, your wife, or girl friend walking. You see the same people having Opti problems over and over, and other people having no problems. You think some are just lucky?
Also, if you have your battery in the rear, do yourself a favor and run the ground cable all the way up to the engine. A starter bolt is a good place to ground it. An improved ground is well worth the couple of pounds you add to the car.
Hope I didn't **** anybody off, I'm just trying to help.
Good luck, Ed
There is no power to be had there. All you need is a new GM Optispark. (NOT a remanufactured piece of crap from the corner auto parts), installed correctly, a good set of plug wires, and a good set of AC or Autolite spark plugs with a reasonable gap. High cylinder pressures = smaller plug gaps. .035" will run as fast as anything. Stock wires are not only great, they are the correct resistance. As long as they will fit around your headers, etc. I know they work with Hookers long tubes, I ran a set of original red LT4 plug wires for four years. Too little resistance and you get too much electrical trash for the computer, too much resistance and you kill caps and rotors. Metal wire in plug wires is for carbureted non-computer cars, not what we have.
If you are burning holes in caps or rotors, you have too much resistance somewhere. Elctricity is lazy, if it's too hard to go through the wire and jump the plug gap, it's gonna burn a hole in something to get to ground. A good old Sun engine analyzer will tell the tale on that deal. Usually ends up being a plug wire with a void or gap inside it someplace, or a spark plug with a resistor problem. Unfortunately being new does not mean actually being good anymore. You can also test those with an ohm meter. Just takes longer if the plugs and wires are installed on the vehicle. If you keep having Opti problems, it would be cheaper to figure out what you are doing wrong, than to throw it all away and go to a whole new aftermarket system. Those almost never have the same reliability in the long run. May very well leave you, your wife, or girl friend walking. You see the same people having Opti problems over and over, and other people having no problems. You think some are just lucky?
Also, if you have your battery in the rear, do yourself a favor and run the ground cable all the way up to the engine. A starter bolt is a good place to ground it. An improved ground is well worth the couple of pounds you add to the car.
Hope I didn't **** anybody off, I'm just trying to help.
Good luck, Ed
07-23-2006, 06:05 PM
#11
Ed you know me well enough to know I have checked all that over ten times 
The ONLY reason I went this way is I am tired of having to screw with it. Everyone claimed this and that. I like the extra saturation time on the four coils.
I am going back to what has worked before. My 1989 MSD 6T box and a Stock Opti with new cap and rotor. I will just put a new cap and rotor on it every year.
This all started when I had a Rotor failure(burnt). Stuck in the damn rain in view of a Ford dealer!
ALL I want is my damn car to run and be dependable like it used to be!
The ONLY Opti failures this car has EVER had are corboned up cap and rotor from the MSD burning it in.
The ONLY reason I went this way is I am tired of having to screw with it. Everyone claimed this and that. I like the extra saturation time on the four coils.
I am going back to what has worked before. My 1989 MSD 6T box and a Stock Opti with new cap and rotor. I will just put a new cap and rotor on it every year.
This all started when I had a Rotor failure(burnt). Stuck in the damn rain in view of a Ford dealer!
ALL I want is my damn car to run and be dependable like it used to be!
The ONLY Opti failures this car has EVER had are corboned up cap and rotor from the MSD burning it in.
07-24-2006, 08:57 AM
#13
This is NOT directed at Ellis:
I have a stock GM (NOT Autozone, etc) Opti, had to go to MSD wires due to my new headers, Autolite plugs (you would not believe how many NGK plugs we have had to replace to get rid of misfires so we could tune guys cars) and the ONLY aftermarket ignition box we have found to make one single hp over stock, suprisingly is an ACCELL 300+ digital, and the required ACCELL coil. I have tested everything I could get my hands on, nothing else makes any difference at all. MSD usually is worth one or two rwhp, but only below 3500 RPM. I have seen losses from some Crane boxes, but I have seen as high as eight rwhp from the ACCELL, on a mild combo the ACCELL is not worth any power either. Only four rwhp on my car, and that is only above 6500. The bigest gains were on blown LT1s. I also tested the others on blown LT1s, only the ACCELL helped. Normally aspirated LT1s, below 12-1 compression have shown no gains from any ignition "upgrades" in my testing, they seem to need no help if everything else is right. One other thing I have seen problems with, is the short pig tail/harness that goes between the main wire harness on the passenger side/top of the engine, to the Opti it's self. I used to keep one on the shelf back when I still was doing service work. I have fixed four or five "mysterious ignition problem" LT1 cars with a new one. A couple of those had laready new or re-man Opti-sparks thown at them by other shops. If you are not seeing high or low resolution codes, in my experience it is probably not the Opti. Unless the rotor screws fall out.
If you install a new GM Optispark, remember to locktite the rotor mounting screw first. Verify your cam dowl pin length if you have an aftermarket camshaft, repair any water pump and timing cover leaks, make certain your vacuum venting works correctly. The Opti that came in my car had 120,000 miles on it when I switched engines, I put a new one on my new engine. It is on that same engine the guy bought from me (now built up) and running around in another car here locally, and still making good power and running fine. I pulled that one out five years ago. Don't know how many miles it has on it now. All it got was a new cap and rotor when he re-did the engine.
I have a stock GM (NOT Autozone, etc) Opti, had to go to MSD wires due to my new headers, Autolite plugs (you would not believe how many NGK plugs we have had to replace to get rid of misfires so we could tune guys cars) and the ONLY aftermarket ignition box we have found to make one single hp over stock, suprisingly is an ACCELL 300+ digital, and the required ACCELL coil. I have tested everything I could get my hands on, nothing else makes any difference at all. MSD usually is worth one or two rwhp, but only below 3500 RPM. I have seen losses from some Crane boxes, but I have seen as high as eight rwhp from the ACCELL, on a mild combo the ACCELL is not worth any power either. Only four rwhp on my car, and that is only above 6500. The bigest gains were on blown LT1s. I also tested the others on blown LT1s, only the ACCELL helped. Normally aspirated LT1s, below 12-1 compression have shown no gains from any ignition "upgrades" in my testing, they seem to need no help if everything else is right. One other thing I have seen problems with, is the short pig tail/harness that goes between the main wire harness on the passenger side/top of the engine, to the Opti it's self. I used to keep one on the shelf back when I still was doing service work. I have fixed four or five "mysterious ignition problem" LT1 cars with a new one. A couple of those had laready new or re-man Opti-sparks thown at them by other shops. If you are not seeing high or low resolution codes, in my experience it is probably not the Opti. Unless the rotor screws fall out.
If you install a new GM Optispark, remember to locktite the rotor mounting screw first. Verify your cam dowl pin length if you have an aftermarket camshaft, repair any water pump and timing cover leaks, make certain your vacuum venting works correctly. The Opti that came in my car had 120,000 miles on it when I switched engines, I put a new one on my new engine. It is on that same engine the guy bought from me (now built up) and running around in another car here locally, and still making good power and running fine. I pulled that one out five years ago. Don't know how many miles it has on it now. All it got was a new cap and rotor when he re-did the engine.
07-24-2006, 03:00 PM
#15
I'm with ed...stock gm opti and taking to 7500(not gm pcm). I do run a msd box as I seemed to be blowing the spark out above 5500 or something. Put on the msd and that problem went away. I didn't gain anything in HP but gained on the motor reving above 5500. It also lets me put on a 2 step and a spark cut off instead of fuel cut off for a rev limiter.
07-24-2006, 05:38 PM
#16
It's All good Ed The ONLY reason I run the 'MSD' is to keep the plugs clean and keep the idle clean and a good rev limiter
To be honest I do not have much faith in either the LTCC or the Deteq but I figured at least if this did not work out (like it has) most of the stuff will transfer to the Twin Turbo Shop truck
The ONLY reason I run the 'MSD' is to keep the plugs clean and keep the idle clean and a good rev limiter To be honest I do not have much faith in either the LTCC or the Deteq but I figured at least if this did not work out (like it has) most of the stuff will transfer to the Twin Turbo Shop truck
07-25-2006, 02:38 PM
#20
Originally Posted by regorih383
Dam that makes me feel sick. I just purchased my LTcc thats going on my 383 with a big cam 235/245 .58xin .59xex !Thats fucked up because if it dosent work I cant return it and I loose my $400+ that I have invested
Delteq with full MSD DIS-4 Plus! and coils 