Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

Ok. When I go to build my lt1 into the beast that is really was meant to be, im not staying lt1. I dont see reason.

What I want to do is basicly stick all the lt1 injection and such on a SBC. This way I can use SBC heads and have all the benifits of the large aftermarket. So what does this take? Or how about this.... How cheaply can I jsut take a normal SBC intake, convert it to EFI as CHEAP as possible?

If at all possible I would like retain the LT1 pcm if at all possible also (alternatives are $$$... im on a budget.. kinda... lol). And are the motor mounts different on the SBC? Only reason I ask is the aftermarket offers a SBC crossmember.

In essence I would like to put a SBC in... but with EFI. If it is cheaper and easier to convert the LT1 intake I will. If not, I will jsut use a standard single plane. If there is NO WAY AT ALL TO USE THE LT1 PCM EASILY i will just megasquirt it.

Thanks for input. If anyone has some productive suggestions please go to town. I want to hear anything.

EDIT: I will attempt to go Megasquirt or something of the like either way. It is a boosted LT1 and the stock PCM blows complete nuts for boost in the first place. Any area I can cut cost im going to try to.

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

I would ditch the factory computer long before I would ditch the LT1!

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

Well like i said... Megasquirt will probly be the thing to go with. I may go with it before I ditch the LT1

But im somewhat ditching the lt1 because its gunna go this comming season (8-10lbs of boost and some nitrous tends to do that to stock lt1s...)

But anyhting you got to help me out on this would be great.

1SLO6

iTrader: (8)

ahhh huh??? so u want to re-invent the wheel but keep it on a budget.... sorry bro dont know y u would want to go that route unless u are trying to build a 8 second car. u can easily be in the 9's on some nitrous with a LT1 so either get ready for a simple headache or head bashing project. Either way u will proably spend the same amount of money. Trust me I have done quite a few LT1's and LS1's to know that it all costs money.

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

Humm.. my post isn't showing up though it says i already posted it... wtf

here it is again...


True. Its gunna be a headache. But Im not reinventing the wheel.

When it comes down to the basics... Im jsut fuel injecting a SBC (that has some nice brodix heads or something on it), putting a turbo on it (the one off the lt1) and putting it in a nice home (my LT1 TA)

That is all im doing. The closest to reinventing anyhting is putting the LT1 intake on the SBC (if I choose to do so) and this has been done 100 times over within the 3rd gen crowd.

I really think it can be done for a fair price (i know how these things go guys.. lol.. the turbo kit was a fun project .. and still is... $$$ ****... ). I know it is going to cost more than i will anticipate. But that is not a problem. I just need a little help in my research

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

We custom made our intakes but that does not seem to be the whole question

I have a MS sitting here but for now I am just making all the power I can under the 7,200 curve It will be easier for you to use the MS because you are already missing the opti. You WILL need to retain the PCM if you want the factory dash to work. Just do the piggy back

BTW using a LT1 intake or heads on a Gen I is nothing new. they have been doing that since they hit the streets in 92

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

Just the man i wanted to talk to.

I dont want to use the LT1 heads... that is the biggest reason for goign to SBC... one... blocks are a dime a dozen... and there is a MASSIVE aftermarket when it comes to heads...

So any help... please please let me in on some tips

Ray@Nitrous Outlet

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

there is no need to have a carb intake converted to EFI

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

That's an idea, to convert back to a SB1. To use the LT1 PCM (to save the trouble and cost of pulling out the old system and installing a new one, I presume) you'll need to get the optispark distributer to somehow work. The timing covers are completely different. The LT1 PCM will not work with any other kind of distributer that I've even heard of. If there was, we'd all have converted to it.

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

Basic Operating RPM Range: 4,500-8,500 RPM

thats the only downside considering IM trying to make a turbo car that i will shift at in the mid 6000's (why should I have to spin it anymore than that? I would even like to do less... RPM kills motors)

And I want it to have some grunt as low as 3500 at least...

Not that it matters that much really...


Well Im thinking megasquirt is goign to be the best bet.

Its not even going to be a LT1 at all when im done, but I can say it is (not THAT big a difference)

But what recomendatiosn would you all make... lol... I love the comments but somethign to help would be great.

I probly can handle making a SBC EFI and bolting the turbo setup off the lt1 on it. What do I need to make it fit though? And without cutting the **** out of my car...

EDIT: "recomendatiosn"??? jesus was a drunk when i typed that...recommendations

Ray@Nitrous Outlet

Edelbrock has a complete E series of carb style manifolds. You just listed a single plane and I linked to the one I am going to use on my LT1

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

What would someone probly recommend for a street car? Not like the thing will ever see past 7k... that is a lot of RPMS and you shouldn't need that many with a boosted motor (kind of iggnorant to say... but a guy on turbomustangs is running mid-high nines shifting at 5500 on his stock block 350 )

JUICED96Z

A buddy of mine is trying to do that with his Turbo Supra..... The motor just got pulled again, for the third time in over a month......


Don't cut corners, save your money and do it right the first time....

My car ran like crap this summer (well ran strong compared to like a raped ape). I saved my money and am fixing it the right was this winter...

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

Well just in the few hours i been looking into this im stuck with this.

Just doing a SBC. Full forged bottom end (Callies/Compstar probly). basicly any heads and what not that i want. Edelbrock EFI intake and fuel rails. Then whatever I can do to keep stock fuel lines (why not... they support whatever i need). Run megasquirt. Use my turbo setup off the lt1.

And it sounds like im going to need the SBC crossmember to mount the motor.

And Im goign to need to cut the cowl the make room for the throttlebody and what not also huh?

Thanks for any help and advice anyone has/is giving.

JUICED96Z

From what I can tell you want Id go braided (larger) fuel line.... can't go cheap or to safe on fuel stuff..... or engine goes BOOM!!!!!!!!!!!!! in a very bad way...

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

You know who Ellis is right? How about Engineer Mike...???

You know how fast either of them are? Well Mike trapped 143 with his turbo lt1.

You all know who Ellis is so im not going to waste my time talking about him...

Both of them crazy ****'s are running STOCK FUEL LINES AND REGULATER!!!! They have plenty of fuel to spare. People missinterpret fuel starvation as problems with the stock lines... these two are running this fast and not a single problem...

So why should i change them again?


lol.. sorry.. not trying to be a ***.. this is just a subject people are mislead on

JUICED96Z

and thats fine, I am just the kind of person that would rather be super safe then sorry....

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

Drag. Go with the intake that fits the best and flows alot. a Turbo will put the ait through what ever you have regaurdless of advetised RPM Range. I am using a Holly Stealth Ram for my TT 79 Step side

Also get a good Meth kit to go with your new system.

I know how to make the Opti work on a Gen I but would not bother for a boosted engine. It is good to see someone had been listening all this time while I was preaching about the LT1 PCM and boost

Depending on how efficent the engine is stock fuel lines and Meth should be fine. I think I maybe nearing the limit of the lines but I am not sure yet You Must remember a N/A-N2O engine uses it's fuel most efficently then a Boost engine. Meth will help cover that to a point

BMR makes a nice Gen I K member

Good luck man!

BTW I am still using modified stock LT1 heads. . .The set that came on the car when it was new

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

You don't need bigger fuel lines, or different regulators. I've even sprayed mine with stock pump, lines and regulator. If you only want to go nines, you don't need anything else. The computer will make more difference than an intake manifold. My buddy Rick Abare recently went to a Holley Comander 950 ECU, and this past weekend went:
9.99 @ 138.211 , 1.32 60' at 347' DA
9.98 @ 138.088, 1.44 60' at 469' DA
9.98 @ 138.715, 1.42 60' at 382 DA
9.97 @ 138.749, 1.42 60' at 120' DA

This is normally aspirated with LT1 heads and intake (not even LT4) and a 4L60E which is still using the factory PCM. This is the car on AI's website.

Last week I went ahead and ordered a FAST XFI system for mine. I'll try to get time to install and tune it before Englishtown.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

You don't need bigger fuel lines, or different regulators. I've even sprayed mine with stock pump, lines and regulator. If you only want to go nines, you don't need anything else. The computer will make more difference than an intake manifold. My buddy Rick Abare recently went to a Holley Comander 950 ECU, and this past weekend went:
9.99 @ 138.211 , 1.32 60' at 347' DA
9.98 @ 138.088, 1.44 60' at 469' DA
9.98 @ 138.715, 1.42 60' at 382 DA
9.97 @ 138.749, 1.42 60' at 120' DA

This is normally aspirated with LT1 heads and intake (not even LT4) and a 4L60E which is still using the factory PCM. This is the car on AI's website.

Last week I went ahead and ordered a FAST XFI system for mine. I'll try to get time to install and tune it before Englishtown.