I need a rebuild I would love to add more power but my number 1 concern is reliability! Reliability! Reliability!!!!
I don’t care if I go back all stock! I need to be able to drive from Atlanta to Detroit with out a problem. .
Recently I have had a transmission and a rear end rebuild... now its time to get the engine done…

I’ve been getting prices from $1,999 to $6,999. What am I looking for when it comes to a rebuild?

Can some one please give me a list of things that should be done or that I must have when it comes to a complete rebuild to get this engine back running like a brand new LT1? .?

EVERYTHING from the sanding of the heads to baking the block or whatever? I just need a list to compare what should be done to get where I want to get to what they are willing to do for what I’m paying them. .

I have a brand new electric water pump, alternator and power steering pump on the car so those things are ok

 

If you are looking to get something with great reliability, then naturally you are not going to be able to go too wild. Really the biggest question should be, How much do you have to spend? If you want to get a complete rebuild but keep everything stock, you can do that pretty cheap.

There are certain items that you should always replace when rebuilding a motor. Bearings should always be changed. I would change crank, rod, and cam bearings. A new oil pump should also always be used. Lastly, a new set of rings. All of these parts are relatively cheap to purchase but a little more pricey to install.

You should also have the cylinders checked to ensure proper size. You didnt say how many miles you have on the motor but I had over 150k on mine and my bores were still good enough to get away with a hone.

When it comes to the lt1, there are a couple of weaker pieces that I would replace if I was doing a rebuild but if you are looking for stock power then stock parts would work just fine. The first thing I would replace is the rod bolts and the second thing I would replace are the pistons. If your cylinders need to bored, you will have to purchase new pistons anyways so that can aid you in your decision. Rod bolts are pretty cheap and installation is not too expensive either. One thing to remember is a key to having a motor last is to make sure it is balanced properly. If you change any part of the rotating assembly, make sure you get it balance.

Basically I would find a reputable shop and have them take care of you. Tell them to write you up a quote that itemizes the prices for the parts with manufacturers part numbers and labor prices. Give us a shout with the quote and we can lend a helping hand with our opinions.

Good Luck,
Bobby

 

I assume that you are looking to have someone to do it by your post. I built mine myself for about $1800, and $500 of that went to a new block. I used Eagle 5140 Forged Rods, Speed Pro Forged Pistons with Teflon Skirts, Performance Rings, Clevite Bearings, Corvette Crank(Had it checked and Polished), Corvette 4-Bolt Block(Checked, Honed and Vatted), Melling Oil Pump, upgraded to a GMPP LT4 Extreme Duty Full Roller Timing Set, had the Heads checked and milled 6-thousanths, Manley Head Bolts, Felpro #1074 Head Gaskets, and the LT4 Hotcam & 1.6 LT4 Roller Rockers from my previous build. I listed some of those so you might get a good idea of something to use.
I haven't had a problem yet, and it threw down 336HP/335TQ through the Auto, 350 CID LT1. I just blew apart my Ring and Pinion and killed the Tranny, but that was probably from me..

 

the motor has about 110,000 miles on it

 

Unless it has a problem a 110K is not **** for an lt1 cam it and leave it alone. SBC's routinely go 200k with maintenance and no troubles.

 

Mine went 224K before the waterpump impeller broke off the shaft and managed to kill a head gasket (I got it home...). New pistons, rods, rings, bearings, gaskets, timing chain, heads, head bolts, cam (because I wanted to), had the block cleaned, surfaced and cam bearings installed, put a hone in it, and slapped it together. Also had to replace the O2's and cat as the antifreeze killed them. Cost about $1000 total. Do I expect it to last another 200K - No. Does it work for now - Absolutely.
I'm saving for either a 396 stroker or an LS1 swap.

Now to answer your question, you don't need to rebuild it right now, unless you really want to. Golan offers ready to go if you want to go that route.

 

If you're dead set on a rebuild, then you might as well set enough aside to replace all the stock items that are the weakest, especially if you want reliability. Do you need a longblock to swap right in for yours so you don't have a lot of downtime or can you rebuild the one you have and wait for it?

I went with a 355 standard LT1 block with stock rods and crank, arp rod bolts, forged pistons, all clevite bearings, cloyes timing chain, cam, Comp 1.6 RR, comp springs and arp studs and head bolts.

You can stay with stock heads and run a small cam like the Crane 227 and that would be great, I think. If you can port your heads that will open up your options a lot. You can also get a crane valve spring set that's very well priced for that cam that includes all the hardware. You really should get some nice chromemoly pushrods, though.

 

i have to go with a rebuild the car is dead!!

 

what happened?

 

over heated in like 30 secs after running at like 165

 

any more idea's?

 

ttt.......

 

For a servicable reliable but not high HP Golen is the answer you are looking for. Do not let the HP ratings confuse you, they are crankshaft numbers no accessories no restrictions. Multiply the advertized numbers by .75 to get a more realistic idea of rwhp numbers.

I am not saying Golen is lying or anything just making sure you know how to compare his numbers too the ones we discusss here every day.

 

wait a sec, did you do a ls1 front end swap?? not to many people do that to camaros thats pretty trick.

 

That is what I was going to ask. Though I prefer the LT1 body style, it looks very nice.

Anthony

 

I'm currently in the middle of a re-build. I'm going with stock long block, then bolting on some good exhuast and CAI for some free horsepower and better mileage. My end goal is to have a nice driver - so I'm not getting carried away with internal engine mods....I have enough race/toy cars. So, The things I'm doing are: entire new rotating assmebly (crank was bad) Double roller timing chain, balancing, torque plate hone, full rebuild on the heads with nice 3 angle valve grind. I'm replacing all the components - just re-using the bare castings. All parts will be stock equivelent except the timing chain. The entire package was quoted at $2500 to $2700. I've used this particular shop on several different motor projects and they are typically low on their estimate- I'm guessing they will give me at least a $3K bill by the time I get it back....Anyhow - that is what I'm doing and the rough cost - hope that helps.