Update on the swap..
Update on the swap.. This is going to be a nasty little setup.. it's not LTX based, but it will be stomping the shiiit out of LS1 cars, I have a couple around here to kill...
I have done everything myself so far, including the Wiring Harness, and all the necessary car modifications. I still have a few left..
Starting to get the good stuff in now..fells like Christmas until I remembered that I paid for it.
Completely Assembled L76 Intake with LS2 Fuel Rails and LS2 Injectors, LS2 FRC's
Holley 90mm Throttle Body
L92 Heads, bare. I have all the Valves, I also got the offset Rockers, and the Rocker Pedistals. I am buying good Springs, Retainers, all that stuff.
6.0l Truck Iron Block.
I still have to get the Rotating Assembly, it is all Eagle Forged, 4" Crank and 6.125" Rods with Mahle 4.000" -12cc reliefed Pistons. Then the Timing Chain, and the little stuff from there.
It will be a beast..
I have done everything myself so far, including the Wiring Harness, and all the necessary car modifications. I still have a few left..
Starting to get the good stuff in now..fells like Christmas until I remembered that I paid for it.
Completely Assembled L76 Intake with LS2 Fuel Rails and LS2 Injectors, LS2 FRC's
Holley 90mm Throttle Body
L92 Heads, bare. I have all the Valves, I also got the offset Rockers, and the Rocker Pedistals. I am buying good Springs, Retainers, all that stuff.
6.0l Truck Iron Block.
I still have to get the Rotating Assembly, it is all Eagle Forged, 4" Crank and 6.125" Rods with Mahle 4.000" -12cc reliefed Pistons. Then the Timing Chain, and the little stuff from there.
It will be a beast..
Last edited by the_merv; May 8, 2007 at 08:35 PM.
This build is an all-motor, no bottle build, I want 10's on just Engine. My light car should get it.. if not it will be close..
The rear will eventually be a Moser 9" with either 3.90's or 4.10's, and the Tranny will be a fully built 4L60E with a Yank SS 3600. The Cam is a Texas Speed and Performance 237/242, .603/.609, 112LSA.
It will be nasty, they flow 325/210 at .600 lift with a 4.000 bore.
The rear will eventually be a Moser 9" with either 3.90's or 4.10's, and the Tranny will be a fully built 4L60E with a Yank SS 3600. The Cam is a Texas Speed and Performance 237/242, .603/.609, 112LSA.
It will be nasty, they flow 325/210 at .600 lift with a 4.000 bore.
Last edited by the_merv; Apr 28, 2007 at 09:13 PM.
Originally Posted by Mattybz28
This what you took the loan out for?
What is this combo going into? Looks nice.
What is this combo going into? Looks nice.
I'm sorry but that Engine and the combination that I am building to go into it will have more potential and power than I can get out of an LT1 at this time..
Originally Posted by the_merv
This build is an all-motor, no bottle build, I want 10's on just Engine. My light car should get it.. if not it will be close..
The rear will eventually be a Moser 9" with either 3.90's or 4.10's, and the Tranny will be a fully built 4L60E with a Yank SS 3200. The Cam is a Texas Speed and Performance 237/242, .603/.609, 112LSA.
It will be nasty, they flow 325/210 at .600 lift with a 4.000 bore.
The rear will eventually be a Moser 9" with either 3.90's or 4.10's, and the Tranny will be a fully built 4L60E with a Yank SS 3200. The Cam is a Texas Speed and Performance 237/242, .603/.609, 112LSA.
It will be nasty, they flow 325/210 at .600 lift with a 4.000 bore.
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Verdad Gallardo It's actually, by the parts, it's a LS6.6l. It's a hair below the LS7 as far as the Dimensions, and the Heads are the same, just a hair smaller Valves, and they are not factory ported.
I don't have a good name for it, unless someone can come up with something..
The SS 3200 Stall was chosen to keep it street friendly, to cream people on the Highway, and it's got a low STR, so it doesn't kill the Rear and Tranny in the car. It will still move in that light car..
I got a good deal on a Yank SS3600, so I am goin with that.
I don't have a good name for it, unless someone can come up with something..
The SS 3200 Stall was chosen to keep it street friendly, to cream people on the Highway, and it's got a low STR, so it doesn't kill the Rear and Tranny in the car. It will still move in that light car..
I got a good deal on a Yank SS3600, so I am goin with that.
Last edited by the_merv; Apr 28, 2007 at 09:14 PM.
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How'd you make it a 6.6L? Stroker crank? And I'd say bore it out and get that LS7 dimensions, and the valves and just call it an LS7 clone 
Or LS7c perhaps?
Whatever it's called, hopefully you make some tire melting torque
Or LS7c perhaps? Whatever it's called, hopefully you make some tire melting torque
Originally Posted by Formula350
How'd you make it a 6.6L? Stroker crank? And I'd say bore it out and get that LS7 dimensions, and the valves and just call it an LS7 clone Or LS7c perhaps?
Whatever it's called, hopefully you make some tire melting torque
Or LS7c perhaps? Whatever it's called, hopefully you make some tire melting torque
What makes it that displacement is the factory 4.000 Bore and a 4.000 Stroker Crank, which drops right in without clearancing anything. It's a very easily built setup, and it's starting to get quite common. Those Heads that I have are only for a bore that is 4.000 or larger, the Valves are that big to where if the Bore was smaller, they would hit the Cylinder Walls. A regular LS1 can't use these. That is why all the Truck 6.0l Iron Blocks(Bare Block above) are a little high in value..
Originally Posted by ridethesmallbus1
its wierd how i get pumped on other peoples cars
Originally Posted by the_merv
With that Block, the most I could safely go before sleeving it is .060 over. It's fine where it is, and those Heads are stout from the Factory. A friend of mine has a built LS1 with stage 3 Ported Heads, mine out-flow his.
What makes it that displacement is the factory 4.000 Bore and a 4.000 Stroker Crank, which drops right in without clearancing anything. It's a very easily built setup, and it's starting to get quite common. Those Heads that I have are only for a bore that is 4.000 or larger, the Valves are that big to where if the Bore was smaller, they would hit the Cylinder Walls. A regular LS1 can't use these. That is why all the Truck 6.0l Iron Blocks(Bare Block above) are a little high in value..
All my friends are hyped about it cause they don't have the money to do it, and their wives wont let them. I got all kinds of project funding, and no girl, so that thing will get all kinds of good attention..
What makes it that displacement is the factory 4.000 Bore and a 4.000 Stroker Crank, which drops right in without clearancing anything. It's a very easily built setup, and it's starting to get quite common. Those Heads that I have are only for a bore that is 4.000 or larger, the Valves are that big to where if the Bore was smaller, they would hit the Cylinder Walls. A regular LS1 can't use these. That is why all the Truck 6.0l Iron Blocks(Bare Block above) are a little high in value..
All my friends are hyped about it cause they don't have the money to do it, and their wives wont let them. I got all kinds of project funding, and no girl, so that thing will get all kinds of good attention..
please tell me im not dreaming about the financial end of it...
Why go with a 370 Iron Block, a 402 costs the same..355 LT1 would be cheaper.
I can build a Harness for the swap, I built mine and another one is in a running car, so I know it works. Mine just has a few more custom things on it. The Accessories bolt right up to the Block, one of the bolts for the Alternator Bracket has to be drilled and tapped.
A friend of mine swapped his LS1 out for a 6.0l LQ9, and he said that it was a totally different car, and that was with stock internals. The 6.0l Engines are really strong.
I can build a Harness for the swap, I built mine and another one is in a running car, so I know it works. Mine just has a few more custom things on it. The Accessories bolt right up to the Block, one of the bolts for the Alternator Bracket has to be drilled and tapped.
A friend of mine swapped his LS1 out for a 6.0l LQ9, and he said that it was a totally different car, and that was with stock internals. The 6.0l Engines are really strong.
Originally Posted by the_merv
Why go with a 370 Iron Block, a 402 costs the same..355 LT1 would be cheaper.
I can build a Harness for the swap, I built mine and another one is in a running car, so I know it works. Mine just has a few more custom things on it. The Accessories bolt right up to the Block, one of the bolts for the Alternator Bracket has to be drilled and tapped.
A friend of mine swapped his LS1 out for a 6.0l LQ9, and he said that it was a totally different car, and that was with stock internals. The 6.0l Engines are really strong.
I can build a Harness for the swap, I built mine and another one is in a running car, so I know it works. Mine just has a few more custom things on it. The Accessories bolt right up to the Block, one of the bolts for the Alternator Bracket has to be drilled and tapped.
A friend of mine swapped his LS1 out for a 6.0l LQ9, and he said that it was a totally different car, and that was with stock internals. The 6.0l Engines are really strong.
Originally Posted by Colin91Z
If you are building this for all motor, why the -12cc pistons? I would think you would want the flat-tops for more compression...
Originally Posted by 1bdbrd
how is the price the same between a 370 and a 402? i figured the 402 would be more because it uses a new crank whereas the 370 was stock crank and a .030 over bore.
In that case the 370 would be cheaper. With my Intake/Heads/Cam setup I am using, a 402 would suit it better. That, and I believe in go big or go home..
I can see it now...
"How the hell is that LT1 car moving like that..."
And then watch them drool over what is under the hood when I smoke em..alot of raw Chevy power.
"How the hell is that LT1 car moving like that..."
And then watch them drool over what is under the hood when I smoke em..alot of raw Chevy power.