Jon@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (3)

Went to aluminum spool and lost another 18.5 lbs. That is a lot of rotating mass!!



Replaced BMR K-member with one for manual rack= +1.72 lbs.
ATI Balancer vs stock= +1.8 lbs.

Power steering system w/fluid= 32.3 lbs.
New flaming river manual rack set up= 15.73 lbs.
total savings in manual= -16.57

A/C compressor= -15.37 lbs.
A/C bracket and idler pulley= -8.00
Accumulator and lines= -4.3 lbs.
Condensor= -8.21 lbs.
Washer bottle= -1.69 lbs. -8.23 lbs. when full (It was full when in car)
Crash bar= -16.53 lbs.
Front foam support w/clips= -3.28 lbs.
ABS unit= -12.44 lbs.
Cruise control= -3.01 lbs.
Brake booster= -9.73 lbs.
Replaced single adjustable QA1 struts with double adjustable QA1= +.29 lbs.
Replaced 315 lb. QA1 springs with 300 lb. QA1 springs= +3.76 lbs.
Strange front brakes= -40.9 lbs.
Cut LH spindle= -3.83 lbs.
Cut RH spindle= -3.69 lbs.
Strange master cylinder vs stock= +1.97 lbs.
Old rear brakes= 23.10 lbs. each
Wilwood race brakes= 11.37 lbs. each
Total savings in rear brakes= -23.46 lbs.
Old intercooler tubing from 2nd intercooler up= 16.02 lbs.
New style procharger tubing in aluminum= 8.31 lbs.
Total savings in intercooler set up= -7.71 lbs.
Eaton posi and carrier bearings= 24.995 lbs.
Moser aluminum spool and carrier bearings= 6.56 lbs.
Total savings going to spool= -18.44 lbs.

Total reduction so far= -194.16 lbs.

Jon@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (3)

Emergency brake cables another -2.98 lbs. Getting closer to my 200 lb. reduction goal.


Replaced BMR K-member with one for manual rack= +1.72
ATI Balancer vs stock= +1.8

Power steering system w/fluid= 32.3
New flaming river manual rack set up= 15.73
total savings in manual= -16.57

A/C compressor= -15.37
A/C bracket and idler pulley= -8.00
Accumulator and lines= -4.3
Condensor= -8.21
Washer bottle= -1.69 lbs. -8.23 when full (It was full when in car)
Crash bar= -16.53
Front foam support w/clips= -3.28
ABS unit= -12.44
Cruise control= -3.01
Brake booster= -9.73
Replaced single adjustable QA1 struts with double adjustable QA1= +.29
Replaced 315 lb. QA1 springs with 300 lb. QA1 springs= +3.76
Strange front brakes= -40.9
Cut LH spindle= -3.83
Cut RH spindle= -3.69
Strange master cylinder vs stock= +1.97
Old rear brakes= 23.10 each
Wilwood race brakes= 11.37 each
Total savings in rear brakes= -23.46
Old intercooler tubing from 2nd intercooler up= 16.02
New style procharger tubing in aluminum= 8.31
Total savings in intercooler set up= -7.71
Eaton posi and carrier bearings= 24.995
Moser aluminum spool and carrier bearings= 6.56
Total savings going to spool= -18.44
Emergency brake cables= -2.98

Total reduction so far= -197.14 lbs.

Jon@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (3)

If you guys think you are the only ones that have problems with aftermarket items not being quite right, you are not alone!!

I went ahead and got a set of Weld Prostar 3.5" for the front with MT sportsman tires so I could run in True Street classes. I thought I would see how the rims fit and noticed that the studs are about 1/2" too short. Strange sells the brakes with 2 1/2 studs instead of 3". Now why would they do that?? So the longer studs are on order. And I actually have to pull the hubs back apart to get them in!

So on to something else. I thought I would finish the rear end today and got the spool installed. Went to put the axles in and they don't go all the way in! Moser didn't cut the splines far enough down the tube and the spool bottoms out on the spline with about 3/16" of the bearing still hanging out. Now I know why man created Jim Beam.

These are only two of many problems I have run across these last couple of months. Frustrating..frustrating...frustrating....

EPP

iTrader: (22)

Jon, let's get it to the track if it every quits raining! Bob

EPP

iTrader: (22)

I updated the pic's on our website. Bob

Jon@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (3)

Getting closer! After a summer away from her I feel motivated again. Front studs are replaced and axles are cut. I would like to thank Moser for doing that while I waited!! The new front rims are on and that took another 10.9 lbs. out of her. We are up to a total of 208.04 lbs of reduction this year and haven't touched the interior. Currently working on the brakes and off to the alignment shop. I will dyno it once more before going to the track.


Replaced BMR K-member with one for manual rack= +1.72
ATI Balancer vs stock= +1.8

Power steering system w/fluid= 32.3
New flaming river manual rack set up= 15.73
total savings in manual= -16.57

A/C compressor= -15.37
A/C bracket and idler pulley= -8.00
Accumulator and lines= -4.3
Condensor= -8.21
Washer bottle= -1.69 lbs. -8.23 when full (It was full when in car)
Crash bar= -16.53
Front foam support w/clips= -3.28
ABS unit= -12.44
Cruise control= -3.01
Brake booster= -9.73
Replaced single adjustable QA1 struts with double adjustable QA1= +.29
Replaced 315 lb. QA1 springs with 300 lb. QA1 springs= +3.76
Strange front brakes= -40.9
Cut LH spindle= -3.83
Cut RH spindle= -3.69
Strange master cylinder vs stock= +1.97
Old rear brakes= 23.10 each
Wilwood race brakes= 11.37 each
Total savings in rear brakes= -23.46
Old intercooler tubing from 2nd intercooler up= 16.02
New style procharger tubing in aluminum= 8.31
Total savings in intercooler set up= -7.71
Eaton posi and carrier bearings= 24.995
Moser aluminum spool and carrier bearings= 6.56
Total savings going to spool= -18.44
Emergency brake cables= -2.98

Weld 5.5" rim and tire combo= 32.6
Weld 3.5" rim and tire combo= 27.15
Total savings with narrow rims= -10.9

Total reduction so far= -208.04 lbs.

Here is a look of the new master cylinder and line lock. Bracket is made from a piece of scrap aluminum.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

I know how you feel. I did not get mine new but VERY low miles under warranty. It is STILL hard to do the things I know I need to do because I remember that first drive. The first 14 second pass quickly followed by 13s and then 12s. I rememeber how hard it was working my way through the 12s and juicing it into the 11s so many years ago. You had to have a bar for 11s then. I spent months designing one out of 3 kits to fit the way i wanted. when the door bars were out you almost did not know it was there.

If I thought putting the bar in was hard the cage took alot out of me. I was very picky about it and I have got to say it was maybe the final straw for the street car side. The car is still street legal but the cage had a huge impact on the rest of it. Even though I kept my heater(no A/C) and all the creature features it is not the same.

The parts dign and problems like you have ran into over the years is incredible. We had to design and build most of our own stuff.

Your car is looking good man. Nice job!

Jon@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, appreciate it. I hear you on the cage, getting one I like will be hard to find.

Should be down to bleeding brakes after tomorrow if I can keep the family at the lake.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

The biggest advice I can give is find someone who will listen to what you want

BIG_T

iTrader: (1)

subscribing due to some good info

Ponyhntr

iTrader: (9)

Jon-

Get in touch with me if you want the number to an AWESOME chassis guy that will set you up right!

Jon@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (3)

Josh...will do. Once I get this down the track again I'll get a hold of you.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Your car is going to be super light. I've taken 302.25 lbs out of mine and most of that is from the interior. You should be able to hit a 3000 lb raceweight assuming you aren't in the 250-300 lb range.

Jon@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (3)

Unfortunately I will add a lot back in when the moly cage goes in. I'm at 165 and will re-weigh the car when the brakes are done to see exactly where we are at. I'm curious to see if weighing each part that was removed by itself will be very accurate compared to weighing the whole car again.

I fabbed/installed all the front lines and the long one going to the rear. All that is left is plumbing the lines across the rear axle.....ran out of brake line or that would be done too. I did the whole car in stainless but probably won't be able to find stainless brake line around this town!

Got all the stuff installed under the car that was removed to run new brakelines and started her back up. Finally it runs again!! Ran it for about 35-40 minutes with zero issues. Tops out at around 175 degrees. The electric water pump seems to be doing a decent job.

Skidd

iTrader: (2)

I have a local guy to me that does alot of custom work also if you are interested in his number.

Ponyhntr

iTrader: (9)

Just to clarify, my guy is in Indy.

Jon@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (3)

Indy is a good option....coming out to you could get costly in fuel.

Jon@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (3)

Put the car on the scale again, down to 3241. That's a 215 lb drop! Made quite a bit more horsepower.....up to 432 RWHP@5500 and 436 tq at 5000. That's an increase in 63 hp and the engine is still stock....well except for valve springs and rocker arms. Getting the accessories off the engine, aluminum spool, wilwood rear race brakes, ATI super damper, updated blower inlet tubing, and new intercooler tubing made a hell of a difference!

Need to get the front end aligned and back to the track. With those numbers should be in the tens pretty easy.

flyinZ

iTrader: (15)

Man, I wish you guys could tune OBD1 cars,lol. Sounds like a pretty cool setup. Any pics or vids of this car?

Jon@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (3)

I will have one of the dyno runs up tomorrow. Made around six pulls and they all were between 420 and 430hp. You can check out the links in my sig for a couple of pics and old video.