Irish350

iTrader: (14)

im so pissed. ive been trying to get my crank hub off for like a week and a half now (working once every couple days) and i seriously cant do ANYTHING to get it off... i just went to checker and rented a SECOND pulley puller, and since it wouldnt work by itself (way too thick of a drive) i used it in conjunction with the 3 prong that i have. i ended up mashing the tip of the drive on mine and now its pretty much ruined...


can someone please enlighen me? is there some magical button that makes everything on an lt1 easy to work with?

383LT1S10

I used a dampner pulley from OTC meant for chrysler dampners, was about $90. Mine was tight as hell too but it finally popped loose and slid right off.

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

cool man... ill try that one if i cant figure out something cheaper haha

goblue9976

I used a 3 jaw puller (with one jaw removed), and some heat on the harmonic balancer, and it came off. Sorta hard to get off, but way easier. The normal balancer puller was actually threading into the crank dampener, so it was trying to get them both off at once. Once the Harmonic Balancer came off, I used the balancer puller to get the dampener off and it was easy.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

On an old style SBC, the entire crank end is exposed through the center of the damper. Not so with the LT, it's just a hole big enough for the bolt. You're probably pushing on the damper, not the crank.

You'll need to get a bolt the same as the crank bolt but longer. Cut the head off. Drill a little dimple in the center of the cut end. Thread it into the crank through the hub. Set the puller's push point on the dimple you made in the cut bolt. Remove damper.

always faster

iTrader: (6)

For a maximum of protection for the crank here is what i ve done with mine.

-I took off the crank hub "holding" bolts
-I found another bolt with the exact same size but a little longer
-I grind all the thread on this new bolts and insert it in the crank.This way your not even forcing the thread of the crank
-The bolt should reach the inside end of he crank and should also sticking ou a little
-Take a 3 jaw puller and a 1/2 ratchet.
-DO IT

Blackbirdws6

iTrader: (7)

I used a 1/4" extension and put that in the center of the hub. used a puller and came right out. before the extension, the puller was actually hitting the hub and pulling on itself.

-brian

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

i guess ill have to get a new puller then, cause now the centerpoint is totally flattened

i dont even know how i managed that, i thought it was a grade 8 bolt. lol

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

"Is there some magical button that makes everything on an lt1 easy to work with?"

There is a magic button that makes everything on a LT1 F Body hard to work on. It's called ownership. Jeez, I've turned bolts on the thing I can't even see.

On my '71, I can stand between the radiator and the engine with both feet on the ground and still reach my beer.

buffman

iTrader: (9)

yeah you need to put something down inside smaller diameter than the crank hub bolt, then use the hub puller on that

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

i tried that with a longer grade 8 bolt with a hex head... thats what ruined the puller

buffman

iTrader: (9)

interesting.. And you rented the right puller? I've done it before and it's worked fine.

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

+1 this is what I did and it worked great.