Got damned this overheating lt1
Originally Posted by seawolf06
If your radiator is the original, then the cores could have gone bad in it as well. You can go with the ewp if you want, but get the radiator checked out at the same time.
Thats what I was thinking mabe the radiator!!
Originally Posted by seawolf06
If your radiator is the original, then the cores could have gone bad in it as well. You can go with the ewp if you want, but get the radiator checked out at the same time.
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by 93 blackformy
I thought water pumps don't jus break without leaking or bussing or showing some sign visually or whatever....someone correct me on this!
Jon-
Jon-
Pulled the pump and removed the cover and the impeller fell out.
Originally Posted by NovaTodd
Mine broke the impeller off of the shaft - no noise or any other indication of failure other than the temp guage going completely in the red and the ensuing blown head gasket...
Pulled the pump and removed the cover and the impeller fell out.
Pulled the pump and removed the cover and the impeller fell out.
Yea I was thinking about that but thought it'd be kinda rare....but I guess if it can happen it will lol.
Jon-
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 561
Likes: 0
From: silver Spring MD
Hi Folks
If it isn't the water pump and the system looks good, then it will air in the system - need to burp it many times, blown head gasket or cracked head. Before I went down this path, I would pull the water pump to make sure – more than likely – it is a rebuild and who knows it works well. I thought my water pump was good and when I changed it what world of difference. Just my two cents
Thanks
Bill
If it isn't the water pump and the system looks good, then it will air in the system - need to burp it many times, blown head gasket or cracked head. Before I went down this path, I would pull the water pump to make sure – more than likely – it is a rebuild and who knows it works well. I thought my water pump was good and when I changed it what world of difference. Just my two cents
Thanks
Bill
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Check the spoiler upfront if it overheats on the highway, make sure BOTH fans DO work. If everything else fails... you might have a little crack on a head, might be too little and small that it won't make oil milky, but it will force air into the cooling system thru that little opening, as if the engine hasn't been bled properly... as a result = OVERHEATING!
My car would overheat w/ both fans going. not to bad though. I just had a msd dist put in and when they pulled the water pump off the bearing in the back was a mess. missing like 4-5 *****. Then we took the front cover off and the impeller was rubbing along the inside. There was a lot of "play" in it. Only 75,000 miles too! But that was my problem, no water was moving through the pump. Replaced it and good as new.
I would not get a rebuild - new ones are cheap. Also folks, the fans are cut off after 40 mph - if have problems after 40mph, the fans are not the issue. 
Originally Posted by blk97z28
If he were to get it tuned what would be a good temp to have the fans come on at?
Probably about 150*F coolant temp.. - Also- why not just put in a new pump and 160 thermo.. then tune the pcm for 150 and you shouldnt have any problems..
Originally Posted by koolaid_kid
My fans are set as follows:
Fan 1 - 170
Fan 2 - 180
Fan 1 - 170
Fan 2 - 180
Mine only does it in *C
So i had to go find the calculations and then each time I wanted to know what the other was i had to convert it..
Is there any way you could make up a simple calculator file that just does *C to *F?
And then maybe another one that does KPA to PSI and vise versa??
Originally Posted by indirocz28
George, does your software do the temps in *F or *C?
Mine only does it in *C
So i had to go find the calculations and then each time I wanted to know what the other was i had to convert it..
Is there any way you could make up a simple calculator file that just does *C to *F?
And then maybe another one that does KPA to PSI and vise versa??
Mine only does it in *C
So i had to go find the calculations and then each time I wanted to know what the other was i had to convert it..
Is there any way you could make up a simple calculator file that just does *C to *F?
And then maybe another one that does KPA to PSI and vise versa??
Hey bro make sure ALL the AIR is out of your system, I was having bad overheating problems, Overflow in the red Zone kind of the same as you and it took 6 weeks before i got all the air out of the system, Keep checking the Air Bleeder Lines and get a stead flow of coolant so you know you got most of the air out, try not to go to crazy and take it step by step or TAKE IT TO A SHOP lol, Check this link to see how to bleed the system
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#cooling
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#cooling