First of all, Im cheap, just wanted to clear that up.....

I am thriving for more power and I heard a Tq converter is the way to go.

So Looked on Jegs.com, and found some B&M Tork Master Converters

My first thought is that its B&M, name brand, cant be bad right?

Well for a 2000 stall its $232, and a 2400 stall is $256.....

-------------
1. Is this an okay converter?
2. 2000, or 2400 for me?
3. how is the install myself, will anyone help me, or whats a shop gonna charge?
4. Are there any other parts I need to buy for the install?

 

A tq does not really give you more power, it stalls the rpms to a higher range, giving you a better holeshot quicker et

2000 is low close to stock , i would say atleast 2400-2600 if not 3000+

If you can drop the tranny you can do it yourself

I would reccomend a tranny cooler also

 

I would stay above a 3,000 stall. Also a tranny cooler would be a good idea.

Doing it yourself involves dropping the tranny and most of the time drilling holes in the flywheel if I'm not mistaken.

 

Im pretty sure that stock ratio is 1800, so your not really upgrading to much.

Look in to purchasing a converter from a sponsor on here, your only going to get a nicer peice the more you spend.

www.fuddleracing.com
www.converter.cc

I would go no less then 3200 for a street car, I had a 3400 in my DD for over a year and it was great to drive.

I would opt for you to research how to install yourself only because it saves you around $400-600. Install is pretty straight forward though.

Tony.

 

Im not really looking to spend 400$-1000$ for a Tq converter, just something cheap that will work, Im not gonna make enormous gobs of power ever, just something for fun to drive

 

you dont really need a higher stall for a stock LT1, they make great low end power and you dont really need to get to the power band as bad as a cammed motor. plus your only gonna feel it at launch, u wont feel it at all if your already rolling. i would look into something else if you want more power. say maybe headers, my 2 cents

 

ok so I decided that ill wait....

Im just going to someday order a performabuilt stage two with a 3000+ converter.... but not yet....

 

ide say thats wise, but its your choice. also gears would be a good choice for your budget

 

Yeah I meant to post that I know a guy with a 3.23 rear end, with less miles then my car, so ill prolly be taking that. most of you will say 3.23's are low, but its better then what I got and this is a good price..... 2.73's FTL!

 

Cheap, and converters do not belong in the same sentence. 3200 stall is a great converter for a street car, especially an LT1. Also I would never buy a Performabuilt, or any other off the shelf transmission. I will not say anything about anyone's company, but I will say I see a lot of advertisements that claim this and that, but really, you are getting a piece of ****. It is amazing at some of the things people sell, and get away with.

 

Titter,

How is a Performabuilt, FLT, RCE, ATI or any 'off the shelf' tranny a piece of ****?

Its ironic how they are all still in business if they sell junk...

 

You're joking right? If a TC isn't needed, it's really strange, a quality aftermarket converter can and has many a times taken .7 of a second off people's 1/4 mile times

Performabuilt. Seem to have a good track record. I know previous they were under another name (from sources) and weren't the greatest. However, their current track record is going quite well.

IMO if you're trying to use the words CHEAP and Converter in the same sentence, you haven't done enough research. B&M GTFOH TCI maybe. Fuddle more than TCI. You want results. VIG, YANK, EDGE, or Performabuilt in no particular order.

 

im not saying they dont help at all, but they are not the first thing you should do to a stock LT1, especially if its a street car. i think stock LT1's peak torque is at around 2400 rpms so with the 1800 stall you are almost there anyway. besides, on the street, it is just gonna make you spin more. i think they help a lot with a cammed car because they are not making power till higher rpms, so the stall helps get you there faster. i cants see a stall taking .7 seconds off a fully stock LT1 with street tires.

 

I have seen certain companies "built" transmissions torn down first hand, along with some horror stories from friends who have used a certain off the shelf transmission company before, to have a local tranny builder tear it down, and point out that he paid for a stock transmission with a shift kit, and some cheap aftermarket clutches.

I didn't mention any specific company, and it is strictly my opinion, but for me, I rather take it to a builder I can trust, and talk to first hand ... and if there is a problem, don't have to worry about pulling the tranny, and sending to a company.

 

Here is a dyno from my stock stalled LT1 a few years ago ...



My TQ peeked at 4,000rpm ... but the curve was pretty damn flat. Had a few issues with the car then, but for an automatic, with nothing more than a flowmaster that was on the car when I first got it, and a stock airbox, it did well enough.

 

i didnt think the converter would have a big effect on hp or tq? i was thinking more like 60 foot times. i forgot to mention that its is not a bad mod if u just like the feel of a high stall. i think its kinda fun for a weekend car.

 

Titter, is that with a 3200 stall u mentioned earlier?....stalls make an A4 hella fun or funner to drive also.

 

well I agree. I would agree to do gears before I did a TC. definately wont see those gains on a street tire, but with any quality set of drag radials there have been many people who have taken up to .7 off their 1/4 mile times. IIRC I always thought peak torque was in the 3xxx range, but maybe that's for my b-car LT1.

 

Well i thought i had a local builder I could trust, until 7 months later I blew up his "I can build it to last" transmission. Then he didn't want to warranty it.

 

all the searches i did said that 1993 LT1's made 325 foot pounds at 2400 rpms, and 275 hp at 5800 rpms, maybe different depending on years and bodies