Coolant Temperature Sensor
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From: Rapid City, SD
Coolant Temperature Sensor Ok. So after changing my plugs and plug wires last week, turning the wheel sharp backing out of a driveway I hear a pop. It runs like crap all the way home. I realize a wire had pulled from the opti and the coolant temp sensor wire was ripped out of the connector. I have been through 3 sets of wires (Now on MSD 8.5mm) hoping it would fix my problem.
My car runs great until it gets warm, and when it gets warm, in a high gear at low rpm with throttle it stutters and doesnt move like it should. I am thinking that since there is no coolant temp sensor the air/fuel is not correct when it warms up. But I heard there are two sensors, one for the gauge, one for the PCM. Well my gauge doesn't move. I ordered a new sensor with pigtail, that had 2 wires coming from it. The one that is broken has only one wire. It is on the driver side head.
Will replacing this CTS help me any?
My car runs great until it gets warm, and when it gets warm, in a high gear at low rpm with throttle it stutters and doesnt move like it should. I am thinking that since there is no coolant temp sensor the air/fuel is not correct when it warms up. But I heard there are two sensors, one for the gauge, one for the PCM. Well my gauge doesn't move. I ordered a new sensor with pigtail, that had 2 wires coming from it. The one that is broken has only one wire. It is on the driver side head.
Will replacing this CTS help me any?
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
The SENSOR is in the water pump, which is clearly what you ordered. The SENDER is in the head, which is only for the gauge, which is also why your gauge doesn't work now 
The former won't work in place of the latter, so don't try.
Now, to the problem, no that sender won't affect anything. The sensor, that would, since that is the one that talks to the PCM. Because, as I said, the one in the head is only for the gauge. I would guess your O2(s) are shot. Not the one by the cat, but the ones on the left and right banks.
The former won't work in place of the latter, so don't try. Now, to the problem, no that sender won't affect anything. The sensor, that would, since that is the one that talks to the PCM. Because, as I said, the one in the head is only for the gauge. I would guess your O2(s) are shot. Not the one by the cat, but the ones on the left and right banks.
Good inco Formula350 I just got really focused on the sensors but ya as stated above check o2's and get back to us. The WP sesnor talk to the PCM, do need to worry about the DS head sensor. GOOD LUCK!
This brings up an interesting point...An LT-1 is supposed to have a 180 degree thermostat, which, in theory, should maintain around a 180 degree running temperature. My car ('96 Z-28) does indeed show 180 degrees on the dashboard water temp gauge when fully warmed up. However, I had a scan tool plugged in recently, and the scanner showed a 196 degree water temp once the car was "warmed up" and being driven.
Sound normal?
Sound normal?
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Well, to begin my car runs over 210 always. I already replaced the thermostat, and am going to put a new water pump on it.
Also, it has been running a little rich due to the MAF problem I've been having. So i'm sure it has done a number on the already old O2 sensors.
Also, it has been running a little rich due to the MAF problem I've been having. So i'm sure it has done a number on the already old O2 sensors.
Last edited by HoLLo; Sep 27, 2007 at 08:36 AM.
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Originally Posted by HoLLo
Well, to begin my car runs over 210 always. I already replaced the thermostat, and am going to put a new water pump on it.
Also, it has been running a little rich due to the MAF problem I've been having. So i'm sure it has done a number on the already old O2 sensors.
Also, it has been running a little rich due to the MAF problem I've been having. So i'm sure it has done a number on the already old O2 sensors.
Unplug the MAF, see if it's bad/good.
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From: Rapid City, SD
Ok, since I am having the P0100 and P0103 codes, I just put a new MAF sensor on it. Erased the code with my code scanner. And it still does it. So I guess O2's are next...
Originally Posted by leadfoot4
This brings up an interesting point...An LT-1 is supposed to have a 180 degree thermostat, which, in theory, should maintain around a 180 degree running temperature. My car ('96 Z-28) does indeed show 180 degrees on the dashboard water temp gauge when fully warmed up. However, I had a scan tool plugged in recently, and the scanner showed a 196 degree water temp once the car was "warmed up" and being driven.
Sound normal?
Sound normal?
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From: Rapid City, SD
Spoke to a mechanic, he says the problem might be the computer, since its a GM. Because the codes still stay on after erasing them. I do not see or hear any vacuum leaks. The volts to the MAF is correct. I have not tested the volts to the MAP sensor, or others. I can tap all the components (trying to see if the engine stutters any) and it does not.
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From: Ringoes/Flemington, New Jersey
i am laughing at the mechanic.
and yeah, i gave in, i was bored
I just love how some mechanics just point fingers at the ECU, without questioning the components that could cause the symptoms in the first place
and yeah, i gave in, i was bored
I just love how some mechanics just point fingers at the ECU, without questioning the components that could cause the symptoms in the first place