HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Ok. So after changing my plugs and plug wires last week, turning the wheel sharp backing out of a driveway I hear a pop. It runs like crap all the way home. I realize a wire had pulled from the opti and the coolant temp sensor wire was ripped out of the connector. I have been through 3 sets of wires (Now on MSD 8.5mm) hoping it would fix my problem.

My car runs great until it gets warm, and when it gets warm, in a high gear at low rpm with throttle it stutters and doesnt move like it should. I am thinking that since there is no coolant temp sensor the air/fuel is not correct when it warms up. But I heard there are two sensors, one for the gauge, one for the PCM. Well my gauge doesn't move. I ordered a new sensor with pigtail, that had 2 wires coming from it. The one that is broken has only one wire. It is on the driver side head.

Will replacing this CTS help me any?

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

The main coolant temp sensor is in the WP, the DS one controls the gauge only I believe. I need to check this out more i'll get back to you.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for quick response. I am stumped on this. Would a bad opti cause this?

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

The SENSOR is in the water pump, which is clearly what you ordered. The SENDER is in the head, which is only for the gauge, which is also why your gauge doesn't work now The former won't work in place of the latter, so don't try.

Now, to the problem, no that sender won't affect anything. The sensor, that would, since that is the one that talks to the PCM. Because, as I said, the one in the head is only for the gauge. I would guess your O2(s) are shot. Not the one by the cat, but the ones on the left and right banks.

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

Good inco Formula350 I just got really focused on the sensors but ya as stated above check o2's and get back to us. The WP sesnor talk to the PCM, do need to worry about the DS head sensor. GOOD LUCK!

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

This brings up an interesting point...An LT-1 is supposed to have a 180 degree thermostat, which, in theory, should maintain around a 180 degree running temperature. My car ('96 Z-28) does indeed show 180 degrees on the dashboard water temp gauge when fully warmed up. However, I had a scan tool plugged in recently, and the scanner showed a 196 degree water temp once the car was "warmed up" and being driven.

Sound normal?

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Well, to begin my car runs over 210 always. I already replaced the thermostat, and am going to put a new water pump on it.

Also, it has been running a little rich due to the MAF problem I've been having. So i'm sure it has done a number on the already old O2 sensors.

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

210 is normal. Hell, 225 is normal for our cars. I believe we have a 185º TStat, but not 100% sure on that. So 196-200 is fine.

Unplug the MAF, see if it's bad/good.

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

If it only does it when warm, that points to o2s.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Ok, since I am having the P0100 and P0103 codes, I just put a new MAF sensor on it. Erased the code with my code scanner. And it still does it. So I guess O2's are next...

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Yes because the two temps are measured in two totally different places, it would make sense the temps would vary to some degree. The head historically shows cooler than the pump. When the car overheats, the two temps begin to equalize (I noticed this in a bout with a gammed up radiator). Makes sense that if there's no cooling going on, then the whole system is hot.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Spoke to a mechanic, he says the problem might be the computer, since its a GM. Because the codes still stay on after erasing them. I do not see or hear any vacuum leaks. The volts to the MAF is correct. I have not tested the volts to the MAP sensor, or others. I can tap all the components (trying to see if the engine stutters any) and it does not.

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

You really need something like Freescan and a cable to look at this thing.

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Do you have a damaged MAF harness?

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

I have a very basic scanner that will tell me the codes, and erase them, and thats about it.

The connector LOOKS fine.

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

I might try to take a voltmeter and check it out, OHM out the pins.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

I havent tested ohms. but I have volts. the 5v wire is 5.00-5.01v and the 12v wire is 11.67-11.68v

ThoR294

iTrader: (6)

lol @ bad computer.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

i hope your laughin because you think the mechanic is dumb

and its about time you got an Fquick account!

ThoR294

iTrader: (6)

i am laughing at the mechanic.

and yeah, i gave in, i was bored

I just love how some mechanics just point fingers at the ECU, without questioning the components that could cause the symptoms in the first place