joelster

I found a really cheap LT1 car in Baton Rouge

http://batonrouge.craigslist.org/car/488385034.html has a newer LS1 style fron end on it too.

xEzekial

Simple research would have avoided this thread. just look at the specs. 97 Trans Am LT1 vs. 2002 Trans Am LS1. There is a very evident horsepower difference. I personally love the way 93-97 TA's look.

Is the LS1 a superior engine? Yes. in almost every way. I still love my LT1 though, I've never owned an LS1, but I know my engine has almost 90,000 miles and 15,000 of those were from me. I have driven the pure **** out of it, and it's still driving wonderfully. I'm not saying I've never beaten an LS1, but it's rare. More common than not, I would say it's because the LS1 guy couldn't drive at all (because I'm not THAT experienced of a driver to begin with).

So like Powder99SS said, it's all about personal preference.

Hope this helps.

Coonass350

iTrader: (19)

man this is the most replies ive ever had in a thread lol but thanks for all the help guys, i love both styles of cars i dont mean i dont like the 93-97 style, i just like the way the 98-02 styles look a little bit better. i think its the hood that makes it look better to me. but i really am more into the performance more than the looks, but i appreciate all the help and i think i am going to save up for the ls1 car. so thanks guys

TXFORMULA

well, check out some of the aftermarket hoods for both, too, if you are going off looks. they have some nice hoods for both styles. check out the different formulas and t/a's bc some of the formulas are pretty nice too. one thing that has to be said is that the exhaust note is pretty different. the lt-1s sound better in my opinion. check out " ls1sounds.com" .you can hear some different exhaust setups

aajj1987

Listen guy your question is to open ended. when asking about ls1's to lt1's you have to be more specific. none of this is fact its just my personal experience. i started in a 91 camaro z28 350 tpi. it was a great car. felt torqy but i blew it up. got an 1997 lt1 a4 loved it. felt awsome torque and didnt have any problem beating ls1 through a stop light. had a 98 T/A a4 it felt faster but didnt feel as much torque. in all honesty it was easier to put down rubber in a lt1. sold it. bought a 95 z with a m6 and it was nasty. i raced 2 ls1's and beat both in the quarter. granted i didnt know their driving experience and if there was any driver error. what your asking is not a good question because i have a lt1 vette now and its a completely different beast. i can hook in mine and hand with a new zo6 till they catch traction in second at 55. its about how you drive. how you want to drive. and picking your races man. granted in my opinion if i wanted a drag car i would build a nice stalled ltx but if i wanted a road racing car get an ls1 with a stick. granted i love em both but to me its not about if im faster anymore. i love what i got. can catch and unexpecting lsx cause i know what i can do. but at the end of the day i can take my vette home and wax it then do it again tommorow. cause even if im not faster then a ls1 there will always be that enthousiest that likes what you have if you catch my drift. i just happend to notice it happens in older vettes. but all in all good luck either way you go. and anyone that reads this its an opinion not an argument.

by the way here is some lt1 info

BASIC LT1 SPECS



Block and Basics
Displacement: 350 cubic inches, 5733 cubic centimeters, 5.7 liters
Block Material: Cast Iron
Main Bearings: 2-Bolt Centers and Ends (The Corvette LT1/LT4 had 4-bolt mains)
Stroke: 3.48"
Bore: 4.00"
Compression Ratio: 10.4:1
Combustion Chambers: 54 cubic centimeters
Factory Redline Rating: 5700 Rotations Per Minute

Bottom End
Piston Material: (10159437) Eutectic Aluminum/Silicon Alloy
Connecting Rod Material: (10108688) Powdered Metal
Crankshaft Material: (12556307) Cast Iron

Top End and Valvetrain
Cylinder Heads: (10168448) Cast Aluminum, 2 valves per cylinder/16 valves total, ~212 CFM flow (Impala SS and Caprice heads were made of cast iron*)
Valve Diameter: (intake- 10241743, exhaust- 12550909) 1.94 intake, 1.50 exhaust
Valve Overlap: 41*
Valvesprings: (10206040) 85 lbs, seated
Camshaft Specs (12551705): 205/207 duration @ 50*, .447/.459" lift, 117 Lobe Seperation Angle
Rocker Arms: (10089648) 1.5:1 Stamped Steel
Timing Chain: (10128485) Powdered metal butt link

Intake and Fuel Delivery
Fuel Delivery: Electronic Fuel Injection, sequential port
Injector Size: (17124248) 3.0gps, 22lbs/hr speed density (1992-1993), 24lbs/hr mass airflow (1994-1997)
Throttle Body: 48 millimeter twin butterfly
Intake Manifold: (12552137) Aluminum

Factory Power Ratings
92-96 LT1 Corvette: 300bhp, 330lb-ft
1996 LT4 Corvette: 330bhp, 340lb-ft
1992 LT5 Corvette: 375bhp, 370lb-ft
93-95 LT5 Corvette: 405bhp, 385lb-ft
93-95 LT1 F-Body: 275bhp, 325lb-ft
96-97 LT1 F-Body: 285bhp, 325lb-ft
96-97 WS6/SS: 305bhp, 335lb-ft
93-97 Firehawks: 315bhp, 340lb-ft

Factory LTX Camshaft Specifications**:
1992 Y-body: 205/207 0.451/0.450 lift 117 LSA
1993-1995 Y-body, F-body: 202/207 0.450/0.460 lift 116 LSA
1994-1996 B-bodies (including L99 4.3L): 191/196 0.418/0.430 lift 111 LSA
1996 Y-body, 1996-1997 F-body: 200/207 0.447/0.459 lift 117 LSA
1996 Y-body, F-body LT4: 203/210 0.476/0.479 lift 115 LSA


* Cast iron heads are known to flow better, but are also more prone to heat-soak than aluminum heads.
** Thanks to Metalbeast@LS1TECH for these specs

darrensls1

Good choice! I used to drive a 95 Z28 so I have plenty of LT1 experience. When I was fbofy shopping I almost bought a 97 Trans Am but couldn't get the dealer to negotiate enough. So I ended up with the LS1 in my sig. I am soo glad I did. I'm low 12's with just a stall, intake and exhaust. I'm still missing a few boltons, no suspension mods, full weight and stock gears! I couldn't get close to 12.3 in the 95 Z28 with the same mods.

And highway runs are a night and day difference. Now just make sure you get the model and transmission you want. Don't settle for a A4 Z28 if you really want a M6 WS6.

Good luck.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

What's up AJ..I see you made it into the LT1 section..

Coonass350

iTrader: (19)

thanks aajj1987 & darrensls1, i appreciate the comments and the information.

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

I don't see what the big deal is with these threads. I know they say not to talk about this topic, but people obviously like to talk about, so why stop them? Who care's that it's been done before? So has the Ford vs. Chevy topic.

aajj1987

sup merv what you up to. we missed you at the races last weekend. you missed my "stock" corvette beating 02 ws6 mach 1 and a 01 or 02 cobra. i couldnt get the guy in the silver corvette to race me though. but hey we show vette love lol. so i understand.

RSbeast

...piston slap....

My brother has a 99 z28 6spd...and I dislike it for that reason.

That reason alone. Otherwise, I'd have one in a heartbeat. I just think the LT1s are better put together. For a streetcar/DD, you can't go wrong in either. They feel similar, the LS1 just pulls harder up top, but I like the drivable TQ of my LT1 and is alot more fun around town.

Buy what you can afford. I have a 5k LT1 with higher milage than my bros 5k 99 LS1. He got a hellava deal...but I like T/As

To get an LS1 t/a I'd have to spend 10k easy to get what I want. You old guys here all about milage, are justifying 14k for a T/A and making the LT1 a far better buy at 5-6k. Higher milage cars can run just fine. My 155k lt1 screams all day long, as does the 130k z28. I just enjoy 3:42s more than 3:23s

darrensls1

That should not be a reason for anyone to not buy a ls1 car. Not all ls1's have piston slip. Mine doesn't have piston slap. Neither does two friends one of whom owns a 99 Z28 and the other owns a 98 Formula. If you're shopping around and are really worried about it then make sure you start the car cold at least once before buying it. Besides, piston slap is NOT anything dangerous to the motor. It's annoying (from what I hear) but it goes away after a few minutes once the engine warms up.

LT1's are not more fun around town IMO. I have driven both (95 auto Z28 and the 99 A4 formula) and around town I felt the same tire screeching power from either car. I really didn't notice much of a difference until I started feeling the top end and saw the ET/MPH on timeslips.

The problem I always have with the price argument is cash vs credit. Some people don't have 5K, 10K, 15K, ect in cash. So they go out a finance a car at a dealership using thier credit. Well dealerships are not going to have high mileage LT1's on thier lot. But they will have plenty of lower mileage LS1's.

I agree that there are a lot of high mile LT1's still running strong. But now that enough years have passed we are seeing some 100K, 120K and even a few 150K ls1's running just as strong. I don't think longevity is a problem with either motor if taken care of.

pj4553

iTrader: (6)

+1. I love reading the ls1 vs. lt1 threads.They are full of info and peoples experiences.

RSbeast

I see your points Darren, I guess it just bugs me a little..that whole batch vs. selective build process. While I realize the slap isn't etirely detrimental, it's not really a 'good' thing and severe cases will show wall damage. I just don't like the idea of starting my 10k + 'racecar' and listening to it knock or having to explain.

-Tom

Coonass350

iTrader: (19)

thanks for all the replies guys and im glad some of you dont mind me starting this thread i was just trying to get some opinions and some helpful info. and i love both lt1 and ls1 cars just trying to save up some money to buy one or the other.

haacer

iTrader: (1)

Let me tell you about cheap...

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/car/507313547.html

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/car/508631720.html

Coonass350

iTrader: (19)

damn Haacer thats as cheap as it gets! lol

darrensls1

The first one is a V6 so it's all show and no go. The second one looks like

But they are cheap. Which brings me to a couple of old sayings:

1). You get what you pay for.

2). If something looks too good to be true it probably is.

There are a lot of scammers out there trying to rip you off so be careful coonass350. Good luck and happy hunting.

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, there a difference between a good deal and a rip off.

Coonass350

iTrader: (19)

thanks Darrensls1 & ScreaminRedZ, ill try and make sure its a good deal and i test drive it before i ever buy it. i see some people on here say they will send them the money if they will ship the car to them. why the hell would they do that if they have never seen it in person and never drove it? to me thats crazy