JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

Yep, you've got about the same money as IH8FORD does in his engine, but if you put your engine in his car it wouldn't run what his does.

Not saying that one should build it the way he did, actually advising against it due to the fact that it had a few corners cut for cost saving reasons. Your heads for one are (according to the AI website) way superior to his ported stockers with stock valves. And a cam that was designed for your heads (and
maybe entire combo) compared to an off the shelf cam.

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

Some SVO 30# injectors and a good fuel pump will support more horsepower than probably 90% of N/A LT1 owners will ever dream of. If you wan to spray then just add do a wet shot and make sure you have enough fuel pump.

Speed Density

iTrader: (38)

The speedpack is a good option. Compstar/Callies stuff is top notch.

As far as heads go, pick something thats in your budget and then talk to the company supplying the peice. Ask them questions and then choose whom you would like to spend your money with.

AI and Lloyd both make a great flowing stock casting cylinder head.

Once your down with that get a cam ground for your goals and setup. Its that easy.

Tony.

ABA383

iTrader: (1)

I'm a long term test dummy for 383 durability...I'm going on my 13th year and over 50,000 miles on my set up that just keeps getting faster while being completely streetable...I went with a Callies crank, Oliver billet steel 5.85" rods and JE pistons LPE assembled the motor back in 1995 and the shortblack has never been apart...FWIW I'd send them your block and have them do your shortblock...You won't find better machining, attention to detail, part selection, and assembly anywhere...Their heads are great, too, but very pricey...They originally did my heads, but in 2005 I wanted to go faster so I used Eric Bradby (E.B. Porting) in VA to re-port my heads...Eric is/was Joe Overton's head porter and Joe had one of the fastest n/a LT1s around...Be careful of folks who hog out the heads and post huge flow numbers...Flow numbers only tell a part of the story..I've found that properly ported stock castings with 2.00/1.56 valves do an outstanding job of flowing well and keeping the velocity up...Joe spec'd me the cam which is 226/234 with .568" lift on a 111 lsa...Again, I'd put this cam up against almost every HR big or small around...The damn combo just flat out works...The times in my sig were with 4.10s, a 28" M/T radial, a Vig 3600 in my 4L60E, and 3600lb raceweight that can and has been driven everywhere...I keep no secrets, its all about the right combination of parts and extreme attention to detail...

Just be careful of big cams...I'm proof that bigger isn't always better...I followed the advice of the late John Lingenfelter who liked smaller durations with bigger lifts...Its no damn fun the make crap loads of power at 7000 rpm unless you want a big rear gear and a big loose converter thats no fun to drive on the street...Which also brings me to spec'ing a set up based on dyno numbers...Dynos are great for tuning but the numbers they produce are just numbers and can easily manipulated by less than honest folks trying to sell a product...I dyno'd a whopping 375 rwhp Hahahahaa...You'll get tons of advice, take your time and sift through the crap...You'll be fine...

--Alan

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

How do you figure?

The heads and cam with the new valves, springs and such were a little under $2000. If he has $1200 in the heads without the cam he is at a solid $1450 with a cam and he has a 383 under it. Must be the cheapest 383 build EVER if he came in under my budget.

The cam is one they sell a lot of and is smaller than the 306.

Mine is setup as a diver, not a racer, a racer would make it faster. I only have 2-3 runs in competion ever.

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

RedHotTransam, SEMPER FI from a brother Marine! Nice to see that EAGLE,GLOBE&ANCHOR!
I was with 1st Marine Div. 2/11 Delta @Camp Horno "The Walking Dead" in the 80's. An 0311, and I miss it.
Anyways, good luck with your rebuild. And remember to keep your head low when your out there in the trench. SEMPER FI,,OORAH and all that good ****!!!

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

- Well the heads were $1200 for porting, he got the cam and a EWP from me which I'm sure I knocked some off the price (which by the way is the only reason why he has a cc306). But, yeah we'll say 1600 for complete heads and cam.
- Obviously he has a EWP, but that allows for a double roller chain, which is much cheaper that a stock style one.
- Scat cast crank ~300 with maching to the block.
- He does have a high dollar Ross piston, for his intended nitrous use. But he could have went with a hyper eutectic set for under $200 and it would be theoretically make more power due to weight differences.
- Stock rods.
- Mildly upgraded TH350 w/ B&M converter
- Stock 10 bolt
- hooker headers didn't cost much more if any than what you have.
- Accel 30# injectors, the old style that you always talk **** about. With no problem so far.

I believe your drivetrain might be actually over the cost of what he has, but I said that you were close and there's no doubt about that.

With your head setup and a cam design for it. No doubt he would be even faster. And you keep going on about how small your cam is, when in reality it probably wouldn't be much faster with a bigger one, due to the power down low that is required for getting a heavy car moving. Plus when you have better heads it doesn't a bigger cam to help it make power.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The stock timing set is cheaper than the gen 1 stuff I see people use last I checked about $20 each for each of the three pieces.

I thought we were talking engine not the whole car?

An f-body can be cheaper to mod in some areas due to economy of scale, things like headers are expensive for the b-body unless you cobble together junk.

A TH350 with stall significantly hurts streetability compared to a 4L60E.

You seem to be leaving out a few hundred dollars worth of gaskets, rings, hope the rods were rebuilt. How about rockers?

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

I meant the LT4 chain, or something comparable in strength to what he has. The more you talk the more your car sounds unreliable.

And I was talking drivetrain cost. Which him and I were just discussing and he sold a jeep that he had for $3800 and that paid for all the parts he had and all machine shop labor. A few things were added down the road like new opti, new fuel pump. The TH350 came later as well, but it was used from a friend and I don't think he gave anything for it. He just rebuilt it and bought a stall.

TH350 and stall behind a 383. Comparable to what you have, I'm sure. On the highway a 4l60e w/ lockup converter, is obviously better for gas mileage and isn't screaming down the road. But thats not to say that his car hasn't see a few long trips. Isn't that what being in the army is all about? Street ability is a personal preference anyway.

Lastly, I don't remember you including the price of all your gaskets and miscellaneous stuff. For instance how much did you pay for the LT1 head cores that you sent to AI, because I know that you didn't just have your stock iron heads ported. But that would bring us back to the car vs. car price difference and the OP isn't building a Caprice.

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

And since we're talking about your car, lets get the whole rundown. What was the breakdown to your 11.95 run? Any dyno numbers? What kind of tires are you running? Whats you're gas mileage? How many miles are you driving a day with your 'daily driver'? I believe you said somewhere the Jeff Creech does your tuning. Are you in the NC area? Want to get our 4 door, 4000lbs cars together for some street action?

Built LT1

iTrader: (3)

I agree, and I'm on my second pair of AFR heads and building my THIRD 383. My 210 AFR's were hand ported in addition to the CNC.

Aside from AFR having a 3/4 inch deck height and a 2.08 intake valve, there's really no reason to get them if you're not building something extreme.

For thread starter, I would have Advanced Induction set you up with a factory head and intake port combo and run the cam they suggest. This along with a good to tune will meet or exceed your goals.

REDHOtTransAM

iTrader: (3)

maybe you didn't understand...

you see, I don't "assume" somebody doesn't know their **** from a whole in the ground because there really is no way for me to know. I take it all with a grain of salt, and do some research based off of what people say. If you noticed, I told every person who has given their recommendations that I will research that, or look into it. I'd say I am being pretty smart about it.

I know when somebody is giving me incorrect information at times, I just don't feel the need to flame somebody for being misinformed. I am sure it has happened to us all.

BADHAWK51

iTrader: (1)

Well I quess my car is not average. I put down 468 rwhp na through a th400 power robbing trans. This is a quote from Elliot Portworks so I quess I'm not the only one that believes in running larger injectors instead of having smaller ones running maxed out duty cycle.



[Heads & cam package will pull from 2,600–6,800 RPM and should make *410 - 430 RWHP
with 36/42 lb. injectors, 58 MM T.B. or Monoblade, GOOD tuning, etc. This will idle similar
to the GM847 but make about 10 more HP at peak and starts making HP sooner than the
GM847. Requires 4.10 gears & 3,000 (or more) stall for best results

REDHOtTransAM

iTrader: (3)

that's what I like to hear...a motor that will hold up. Reliability is very important to go with power. This is our 3rd motor for my Wife's Trans Am. I don't think we can go through another rebuild without giving up.

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

Well the SVO injectors will put out more than 30#s. What injectors and fuel pressure are you running and what is there duty cycle?

And you could make 410-430 with 28# injectors and 52mm, but if made statements like that about my products I also would over do the supporting mods just to guarantee the results.

What all do you have that makes such big numbers. The OP might be interested in your setup.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

I got a mailorder tune from Jeff and have not touched the timing, played with fuel a little.

Last year the 11.95 was with open exhaust and about a 4150lbs raceweight, this year with lesser weather I went 11.93 through mufflers, car may have shed a little weight I have lighter rear rims and disc brakes out back this year.

27x11.50 QTPs
No dyno
about 19mpg on rural roads, 8K miles a year the last 2 years, can't enjoy the power this time of year as cold dry roads don't hook, besides it has alread seen enough salt
I am in Wisconsin and am not some stupid kid who risks others lives by street racing. I keep it on the track on test and tune nights.


One of AI's customers is making 480 at the wheels in an Impala through an 8" ATI and 4L60E using 30lbs SVOs at stock pressure which makes them near 32lbs something I think most guys don't understand, as the SVOs are rated at 39psi. One of the stock eliminator guys says he runs stockers at slightly elevated pressure for 27lbvs and makes up around 450rwhp. All in the tune.

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

I meant what was the 60', 330', 1/8 1/8 mph 1000'?

What the **** ever. I'm sure you've never raced anyone on the street, because you thought you might kill somebody.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

1.611
4.838
7.568
90.28
9.935

Last time I raced on the street was some stupid kids in a Nissan kept jumping on it in the left lane along side me, straight divided highway could see 1/2 mile in both directions I went from 70-90mph after they jumped one last time. Just as they pulled back along side and the window rolled down I exited leaving them wonder what the hell just happened. That was summer 05.

I can find places where there are no other people but I am also not going to risk arrest or deer. I have hit enough of those damned things already and 40mph is bad enough. Last time I went to the track I ran one over after someone else hit it and it took $6 worth of quarters to get most of it out of the undercarraige and wiped a tierod. Deer are a serious risk everywhere in WI even in the middle of Green Bay you see roadkill.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The stock chain works just fine people just ASSume it is bad. I am aware of more broken LT4ED setups than stock.

Far as relibility I have never run an 11 at the track 35 miles from home, only ever at the one 150 miles from home, and last summer at the big national Impala even I drove 500 miles each way and ran 12.8 in 105f heat with nothing but a swap to slicks. May not sound impressive but only 2 trailered strokers managed to beat that NA, one of them AI topped the other Lingenfelter.

The more popular options were represented and went slower.

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

What do you run at the track near your house? And you drop a whole second in the heat? What temps do you normally run in? More popular options went slower than 12.8? Goddamn, I'm glad I never wanted an b-body car.