My New 1993 Z28 Project
#241
for the fuel lines, convert to a 94 and newer intake, it has the cross over at the front of the rails rather than behind them like on a 93 or a vette. this is why you see 2 different LT1 regulators. make sure you get the matching lines or just have them fitted w/ AN's.
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#242
Launching!
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The thing is that with the 93 the trans is controlled by a tv cable. I know the 93 throttle body is different because of that. I'm guessing the way it connects to the intake is the same though? I'll probably go the AN route when I redo the fuel system.
PM sent
PM sent
The TB bolts on the same. the linkage is the only difference.
#244
I haven't really been able to do a whole lot to the car recently. I'm kind of running out of free things to do and am going to have to buy some parts to continue. There in lies the problem as I have almost no money and the little bit that I do have has been going into getting my Formula operational again.
I did manage to do a few things today maintence wise that needed to be done. I realigned the passenger side fender. It had been rubbing on the door. I put a washer in the top screw and it stopped the thing from wobbleling all together. It no longer rubs and lines up very nicely. I also filled the whole I accidently poked in the door removing the passenger side door bar with epoxy from the inside. You can't see any of the epoxy from the outside, but the whole won't leak. The last thing I did was find a screw to put in the passenger side of the rear bumper. The screw that holds it in place in the wheel well was gone.
I weighed the random plastic shrouding that I don't plan on putting on the car too.
Front Bumper Support = 25.375 lbs
Fog lights and brackets = 4.0625 lbs
Cruise control, cable, and throttle cable cover = 4.4375 lbs
Air pump and brass fittings = 5.9375 lbs
Stock horns = 1.875 lbs
Stupid siren and loud horn = 2.5 lbs
Stock Y pipe and single cat = 21.1875 lbs
Frame horns = 5.125 lbs
Fender metal = 1.25 lbs
Rear Seatbelts = 4.1375 lbs
Aftermarket Speaker Wiring (will be added to considering there is a ton more of it) = .25 lbs
Carpet = 29.0375 lbs
Windshield washer fluid resevoir with water = 8.0625 lbs
Heat shields beneath the car = 2.1875
Soon to be useless exhaust hangers = 2.00 lbs
Rear Seats = 22.4375 lbs
Random exhaust hangers, brackets, nuts, and bolts = 9.25 lbs
Front Speakers = 2.75 lbs
Rear Speakers = 3.25 lbs
Front Speaker Brackets = 1.25 lbs
Interior brackets including (rear seat brackets, antenna bracket, rear seat belt brackets) = 3.875 lbs
Security System Hood Lock = 2.6875 lbs
Antenna + Wire (not including the actual metal rod) = .25lbs
Stock catback = 50.1875lbs
Rear Armrests = 4.21875lbs
Extra Metal Trimmings = 1.00lbs
Emergency Brake System = 12.125lbs
Door Fiberglass = 1.90625 lbs
Door Crash Bars and Brackets = 17.5625 lbs
Window Regulator Metal = 1.8846535171744791666666666666667 lbs
Driver's Air Bag = 3.625 lbs
Passenger's Air Bag = 9.46875
Heater Core (empty) = 1.03125
AC Tube = .09375
Black Mat = 10.03125 lbs
Airbag Crash Sensors = 1.53125 lbs
Mat That is Underneath the Dash Pad = 2.34375 lbs
Heater Core Hoses = 2.0125 lbs
Front Sway Bar = 15.09375
Plastic Shrouding = 4.968749
Grand total to this point = 302.259699 lbs + all the stuff I still have to either cut out or weigh.
Those plastic shrouds put me over the 300lb mark, which is nice. I know I have about 10-12lbs in wiring that I've taken out so far also. I'm going to make a thread soon about rewiring my car as I got really frustrated working on it and stopped. I need some help identifying what all I can remove. I might end up scaling back my plans as I added it all up today. Between the two of these cars, rent, utilities, and gas I'm having a tough time.
I did manage to do a few things today maintence wise that needed to be done. I realigned the passenger side fender. It had been rubbing on the door. I put a washer in the top screw and it stopped the thing from wobbleling all together. It no longer rubs and lines up very nicely. I also filled the whole I accidently poked in the door removing the passenger side door bar with epoxy from the inside. You can't see any of the epoxy from the outside, but the whole won't leak. The last thing I did was find a screw to put in the passenger side of the rear bumper. The screw that holds it in place in the wheel well was gone.
I weighed the random plastic shrouding that I don't plan on putting on the car too.
Front Bumper Support = 25.375 lbs
Fog lights and brackets = 4.0625 lbs
Cruise control, cable, and throttle cable cover = 4.4375 lbs
Air pump and brass fittings = 5.9375 lbs
Stock horns = 1.875 lbs
Stupid siren and loud horn = 2.5 lbs
Stock Y pipe and single cat = 21.1875 lbs
Frame horns = 5.125 lbs
Fender metal = 1.25 lbs
Rear Seatbelts = 4.1375 lbs
Aftermarket Speaker Wiring (will be added to considering there is a ton more of it) = .25 lbs
Carpet = 29.0375 lbs
Windshield washer fluid resevoir with water = 8.0625 lbs
Heat shields beneath the car = 2.1875
Soon to be useless exhaust hangers = 2.00 lbs
Rear Seats = 22.4375 lbs
Random exhaust hangers, brackets, nuts, and bolts = 9.25 lbs
Front Speakers = 2.75 lbs
Rear Speakers = 3.25 lbs
Front Speaker Brackets = 1.25 lbs
Interior brackets including (rear seat brackets, antenna bracket, rear seat belt brackets) = 3.875 lbs
Security System Hood Lock = 2.6875 lbs
Antenna + Wire (not including the actual metal rod) = .25lbs
Stock catback = 50.1875lbs
Rear Armrests = 4.21875lbs
Extra Metal Trimmings = 1.00lbs
Emergency Brake System = 12.125lbs
Door Fiberglass = 1.90625 lbs
Door Crash Bars and Brackets = 17.5625 lbs
Window Regulator Metal = 1.8846535171744791666666666666667 lbs
Driver's Air Bag = 3.625 lbs
Passenger's Air Bag = 9.46875
Heater Core (empty) = 1.03125
AC Tube = .09375
Black Mat = 10.03125 lbs
Airbag Crash Sensors = 1.53125 lbs
Mat That is Underneath the Dash Pad = 2.34375 lbs
Heater Core Hoses = 2.0125 lbs
Front Sway Bar = 15.09375
Plastic Shrouding = 4.968749
Grand total to this point = 302.259699 lbs + all the stuff I still have to either cut out or weigh.
Those plastic shrouds put me over the 300lb mark, which is nice. I know I have about 10-12lbs in wiring that I've taken out so far also. I'm going to make a thread soon about rewiring my car as I got really frustrated working on it and stopped. I need some help identifying what all I can remove. I might end up scaling back my plans as I added it all up today. Between the two of these cars, rent, utilities, and gas I'm having a tough time.
#245
I messed with the car a little yesterday and collected some random stuff today. My Formula hasn't moved under it's own power in 15+ months now and it's starting to get frustrating. I'm about $4k short of finishing that and then I can start buying some things for this car. In the mean time I've decided that I'm just going to start putting this one back together so I can drive it.
About a week ago I started working on my own version of what the guy from Speed Inc did with his twin turbo camaro a while ago:
The only problem I had was that he used 2-1/16th gauges and the ones I have are 2-5/8ths. It doesn't really seem like that big of a difference, but when you hold the two next to each other there is.
I started off with a twin pillar pod for a Mustang that the guy who I bought the gauges from included. I cut the cups off of the pod as carefully as I could. I used the same air saw that I used to trim the door fiberglass.
Here's what I ended up with:
I then started trimming on the plastic dash panel. I cut as little as possible and then mocked it up to see how much I had to cut. I wanted to be really careful not to screw it up. In looking back though I did cut too much out. I should have left the corner tabs that hold the AC vent and not cut the chunk out of the bottom left.
After I got it cut out and the gauges fitted with out the pods I trimmed down the pods so they would fit over the areas I cut out of the dash piece. I cut each one really slowly and only a little at a time. I only had these two pods and one dash piece. Here's what they look like sitting in my 95.
They aren't mounted in place. Currently, they are taped on there in the position / angle I want them at and sitting in my garage.
I'm going to fill all of the extra space in with some two part epoxy.
Yesterday, I went through everything that I had for the car and made a list of stuff I need. I have all sorts of random new things like, 8 new plugs, wires, two fuel filters, thermostat, water pump, all 4 head light bulbs, wind shield wipers, etc... I also have two halves on an OPTI. I have one vented cap, an unvented cap, the back part, an extra white middle part, new seals, and screws. The only part I'm missing is a rotor.
Now, I believe I can use the vented cap on the unvented Opti as long as the vent tube is capped like it is. Is there any difference between the rotors of an unvented and vented opti?
My friends and I went to a junkyard today and each snagged a few things. I was trying to find a few random little parts that I'm missing for each of my cars. Specifically, for this one I was looking for an Opti rotor, the part that connects the two spline drives for the water pump, a set of LT1 fans, and a manual seat slider. I only ended up getting the manual seat slider ($27) and one of the small mirror cover triangles for my 95 that had previously broken.
That should be good for a few more pounds in weight reduction and I can now mount a variety of aftermarket seats to it without having to buy different sliders.
About a week ago I started working on my own version of what the guy from Speed Inc did with his twin turbo camaro a while ago:
The only problem I had was that he used 2-1/16th gauges and the ones I have are 2-5/8ths. It doesn't really seem like that big of a difference, but when you hold the two next to each other there is.
I started off with a twin pillar pod for a Mustang that the guy who I bought the gauges from included. I cut the cups off of the pod as carefully as I could. I used the same air saw that I used to trim the door fiberglass.
Here's what I ended up with:
I then started trimming on the plastic dash panel. I cut as little as possible and then mocked it up to see how much I had to cut. I wanted to be really careful not to screw it up. In looking back though I did cut too much out. I should have left the corner tabs that hold the AC vent and not cut the chunk out of the bottom left.
After I got it cut out and the gauges fitted with out the pods I trimmed down the pods so they would fit over the areas I cut out of the dash piece. I cut each one really slowly and only a little at a time. I only had these two pods and one dash piece. Here's what they look like sitting in my 95.
They aren't mounted in place. Currently, they are taped on there in the position / angle I want them at and sitting in my garage.
I'm going to fill all of the extra space in with some two part epoxy.
Yesterday, I went through everything that I had for the car and made a list of stuff I need. I have all sorts of random new things like, 8 new plugs, wires, two fuel filters, thermostat, water pump, all 4 head light bulbs, wind shield wipers, etc... I also have two halves on an OPTI. I have one vented cap, an unvented cap, the back part, an extra white middle part, new seals, and screws. The only part I'm missing is a rotor.
Now, I believe I can use the vented cap on the unvented Opti as long as the vent tube is capped like it is. Is there any difference between the rotors of an unvented and vented opti?
My friends and I went to a junkyard today and each snagged a few things. I was trying to find a few random little parts that I'm missing for each of my cars. Specifically, for this one I was looking for an Opti rotor, the part that connects the two spline drives for the water pump, a set of LT1 fans, and a manual seat slider. I only ended up getting the manual seat slider ($27) and one of the small mirror cover triangles for my 95 that had previously broken.
That should be good for a few more pounds in weight reduction and I can now mount a variety of aftermarket seats to it without having to buy different sliders.
#246
The last thing I really need to finish before I can start putting the car back together is the wiring. I got really pissed off working on it a while ago and gave up. It's been sitting like this in my garage ever since:
It's seriously an intimidating task to say the least. GM hooked all sorts of things in there oddly. Example: The power seat is wired into the rear defroster switch. I still need to go back in to my body harness and reattach my spoiler brake light wire.
I also found another random chunk of alarm wiring when I was going through my parts boxes.
At this point I think I'm just going to go with:
- My Hooker shorties
- Jegs 3 inch universal true duals setup
- The SLP lid I took off of my Formula
- Pull the heads and give them a valve / port job
- A 150 shot that I already have 75% of the parts for
- Speed glass front and rear windshield as I need a new front one any ways
I'd really like to put a 3600 stall in it, but I'm really trying to save money for my Formula. The good thing about that is once I'm done with my Formula I'll have some random parts to put in this one - 3.42 gears and an aluminum driveshaft.
I'm still planning on eventually doing the turbo setup as I have the basic parts. I'd really like to get the interior finished, but that's another $1000. Who knows though.... I tend to change my mind on a lot of things. It'll weigh in around 3100lbs with me in it and make about 420-430 HP. It's not going to look all that great, but it should be fun to drive around.
It's seriously an intimidating task to say the least. GM hooked all sorts of things in there oddly. Example: The power seat is wired into the rear defroster switch. I still need to go back in to my body harness and reattach my spoiler brake light wire.
I also found another random chunk of alarm wiring when I was going through my parts boxes.
At this point I think I'm just going to go with:
- My Hooker shorties
- Jegs 3 inch universal true duals setup
- The SLP lid I took off of my Formula
- Pull the heads and give them a valve / port job
- A 150 shot that I already have 75% of the parts for
- Speed glass front and rear windshield as I need a new front one any ways
I'd really like to put a 3600 stall in it, but I'm really trying to save money for my Formula. The good thing about that is once I'm done with my Formula I'll have some random parts to put in this one - 3.42 gears and an aluminum driveshaft.
I'm still planning on eventually doing the turbo setup as I have the basic parts. I'd really like to get the interior finished, but that's another $1000. Who knows though.... I tend to change my mind on a lot of things. It'll weigh in around 3100lbs with me in it and make about 420-430 HP. It's not going to look all that great, but it should be fun to drive around.
#247
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Yeah right Freakin' on Von Ty!!! Now place don't change your mind from this because I want to help out on putting it back together and I won't if you change your mind on this idea cause I won't know what your doing, and I can't prepare. Just let me know so I can take some time out of my busy schedual to go and help you out.
#248
My friend and I went to a junkyard on Friday looking for a bunch of random parts. I only got one thing off of my list of stuff, but it was worth it. They had a couple Camaros, but no LT1 cars. We found a Caprice with a 4.3L baby LT1. I managed to get the spline sleeve for the water pump drive off of it:
Of course someone had already removed the opti from it so I couldn't snag the rotor. We found a C4 Corvette also, but it had obviously caught on fire. It had the opti still intact, but we didn't know if it was damaged or not. That along with the fact that it looked like hell to remove and there was melter fiberglass every where we decided to pass on it. I still need to get an Opti rotor so I can start putting the engine bay area back together. Anyone want to donate one? I'll pay for shipping.
Of course someone had already removed the opti from it so I couldn't snag the rotor. We found a C4 Corvette also, but it had obviously caught on fire. It had the opti still intact, but we didn't know if it was damaged or not. That along with the fact that it looked like hell to remove and there was melter fiberglass every where we decided to pass on it. I still need to get an Opti rotor so I can start putting the engine bay area back together. Anyone want to donate one? I'll pay for shipping.
#250
I need to get to working on the gauge pod too. I showed it to my friend the other night and he accidently picked it up by the taped part. Oh well... I just need to start working on things.
I'm also in the middle of playing musical cars. If I can get lucky and have a few things work my way this build is going to be completely different. Hopefully, by tomorrow I'll know if I can get things to go the way I want them too.
#251
great writeup man.. i would never have the patience to stop and take pictures as im working. i cant wait to see this finished project.
i think it would be cool, since you already have the turbo, to run a cheapo sbc with that turbo and see what numbers you can run on the cheap. you could always swap to a bb later on,
i think it would be cool, since you already have the turbo, to run a cheapo sbc with that turbo and see what numbers you can run on the cheap. you could always swap to a bb later on,
#252
great writeup man.. i would never have the patience to stop and take pictures as im working. i cant wait to see this finished project.
i think it would be cool, since you already have the turbo, to run a cheapo sbc with that turbo and see what numbers you can run on the cheap. you could always swap to a bb later on,
i think it would be cool, since you already have the turbo, to run a cheapo sbc with that turbo and see what numbers you can run on the cheap. you could always swap to a bb later on,
#253
I went and messed with the car today. I got a few little things that needed to be done completed. I started off by regoing through the whole car and trying to sort out all of the random nuts, bolts, and screws that I've accumulated through the process of taking the car completely apart. I managed to figure out a lot of random stuff and threw them all in small plastic zip lock bags.
I also threw a bunch of miscellaneous stuff that I'll no longer need. Such as the little plastic pieces that cover the seat bolts, wiper fluid hose, random screws for the airbags, etc.... I still have a huge mess, but at least it's a little better now. I still need to go through the room where I put all of my dash pieces and front bumper stuff. I need to get all of the front bumper stuff into bags.
After going through everything I took out my seat and removed the power seat slider from it. Which also happened to be a huge pain in the *** since I had no power to move the seat and it was positioned over two of the bolts that held the bracket to the seat. About thirty minutes later I got it off. Here's the difference between the two with the power seat on the left:
I then weighed both to get the difference (see below) and attached the manual seat slider to the seat. Attaching the manual slider to the was much easier. I actually like the manual one better. It's much easier and quicker to move around.
The last thing I did was take out my body harness and reattach the brake light that I had previously accidentally removed. It wasn't that hard, but find the connectors was a pain in the ***. I hadn't been down to the shop in 5 days and since they've been slow they've completely moved everything around. It looks nice, but I can't find anything at all.
I'm going to work on finishing the gauge pods and continue working on the wiring tomorrow. I'm going to try and get another couple undisclosed things done also.
With the difference in the seat sliders here's the grand total of all the weight reduction:
Front Bumper Support = 25.375 lbs
Fog lights and brackets = 4.0625 lbs
Cruise control, cable, and throttle cable cover = 4.4375 lbs
Air pump and brass fittings = 5.9375 lbs
Stock horns = 1.875 lbs
Stupid siren and loud horn = 2.5 lbs
Stock Y pipe and single cat = 21.1875 lbs
Frame horns = 5.125 lbs
Fender metal = 1.25 lbs
Rear Seatbelts = 4.1375 lbs
Aftermarket Speaker Wiring (will be added to considering there is a ton more of it) = .25 lbs
Carpet = 29.0375 lbs
Windshield washer fluid resevoir with water = 8.0625 lbs
Heat shields beneath the car = 2.1875
Soon to be useless exhaust hangers = 2.00 lbs
Rear Seats = 22.4375 lbs
Random exhaust hangers, brackets, nuts, and bolts = 9.25 lbs
Front Speakers = 2.75 lbs
Rear Speakers = 3.25 lbs
Front Speaker Brackets = 1.25 lbs
Interior brackets including (rear seat brackets, antenna bracket, rear seat belt brackets) = 3.875 lbs
Security System Hood Lock = 2.6875 lbs
Antenna + Wire (not including the actual metal rod) = .25lbs
Stock catback = 50.1875lbs
Rear Armrests = 4.21875lbs
Extra Metal Trimmings = 1.00lbs
Emergency Brake System = 12.125lbs
Door Fiberglass = 1.90625 lbs
Door Crash Bars and Brackets = 17.5625 lbs
Window Regulator Metal = 1.8846535171744791666666666666667 lbs
Driver's Air Bag = 3.625 lbs
Passenger's Air Bag = 9.46875
Heater Core (empty) = 1.03125
AC Tube = .09375
Black Mat = 10.03125 lbs
Airbag Crash Sensors = 1.53125 lbs
Mat That is Underneath the Dash Pad = 2.34375 lbs
Heater Core Hoses = 2.0125 lbs
Front Sway Bar = 15.09375 lbs
Plastic Shrouding = 4.968749 lbs
Power - Manual seat slider = 14.4375 - 10.8125 = 3.625 lbs
Grand total to this point = 305.884699 lbs + all the stuff I still have to either cut out or weigh.
Thanks, I work rather slowly so it doesn't bother me to take pictures. I also have plenty of time to do things since I don't have any money. I'll do the same thing 2-3x times if I can save money and still get the desired goal out of it. I have a deal that is about on the same basis, but I'm not sure if it's going to work out yet. It's basically a no money investment with lots of work.
I'm going to wait on the turbo setup and save up to put it on the car eventually. Right now I'm just trying to put together a lot of little things and get the car ready. The car will be getting the GT42 and eventually something that I have that's a lot larger.
I also threw a bunch of miscellaneous stuff that I'll no longer need. Such as the little plastic pieces that cover the seat bolts, wiper fluid hose, random screws for the airbags, etc.... I still have a huge mess, but at least it's a little better now. I still need to go through the room where I put all of my dash pieces and front bumper stuff. I need to get all of the front bumper stuff into bags.
After going through everything I took out my seat and removed the power seat slider from it. Which also happened to be a huge pain in the *** since I had no power to move the seat and it was positioned over two of the bolts that held the bracket to the seat. About thirty minutes later I got it off. Here's the difference between the two with the power seat on the left:
I then weighed both to get the difference (see below) and attached the manual seat slider to the seat. Attaching the manual slider to the was much easier. I actually like the manual one better. It's much easier and quicker to move around.
The last thing I did was take out my body harness and reattach the brake light that I had previously accidentally removed. It wasn't that hard, but find the connectors was a pain in the ***. I hadn't been down to the shop in 5 days and since they've been slow they've completely moved everything around. It looks nice, but I can't find anything at all.
I'm going to work on finishing the gauge pods and continue working on the wiring tomorrow. I'm going to try and get another couple undisclosed things done also.
With the difference in the seat sliders here's the grand total of all the weight reduction:
Front Bumper Support = 25.375 lbs
Fog lights and brackets = 4.0625 lbs
Cruise control, cable, and throttle cable cover = 4.4375 lbs
Air pump and brass fittings = 5.9375 lbs
Stock horns = 1.875 lbs
Stupid siren and loud horn = 2.5 lbs
Stock Y pipe and single cat = 21.1875 lbs
Frame horns = 5.125 lbs
Fender metal = 1.25 lbs
Rear Seatbelts = 4.1375 lbs
Aftermarket Speaker Wiring (will be added to considering there is a ton more of it) = .25 lbs
Carpet = 29.0375 lbs
Windshield washer fluid resevoir with water = 8.0625 lbs
Heat shields beneath the car = 2.1875
Soon to be useless exhaust hangers = 2.00 lbs
Rear Seats = 22.4375 lbs
Random exhaust hangers, brackets, nuts, and bolts = 9.25 lbs
Front Speakers = 2.75 lbs
Rear Speakers = 3.25 lbs
Front Speaker Brackets = 1.25 lbs
Interior brackets including (rear seat brackets, antenna bracket, rear seat belt brackets) = 3.875 lbs
Security System Hood Lock = 2.6875 lbs
Antenna + Wire (not including the actual metal rod) = .25lbs
Stock catback = 50.1875lbs
Rear Armrests = 4.21875lbs
Extra Metal Trimmings = 1.00lbs
Emergency Brake System = 12.125lbs
Door Fiberglass = 1.90625 lbs
Door Crash Bars and Brackets = 17.5625 lbs
Window Regulator Metal = 1.8846535171744791666666666666667 lbs
Driver's Air Bag = 3.625 lbs
Passenger's Air Bag = 9.46875
Heater Core (empty) = 1.03125
AC Tube = .09375
Black Mat = 10.03125 lbs
Airbag Crash Sensors = 1.53125 lbs
Mat That is Underneath the Dash Pad = 2.34375 lbs
Heater Core Hoses = 2.0125 lbs
Front Sway Bar = 15.09375 lbs
Plastic Shrouding = 4.968749 lbs
Power - Manual seat slider = 14.4375 - 10.8125 = 3.625 lbs
Grand total to this point = 305.884699 lbs + all the stuff I still have to either cut out or weigh.
great writeup man.. i would never have the patience to stop and take pictures as im working. i cant wait to see this finished project.
i think it would be cool, since you already have the turbo, to run a cheapo sbc with that turbo and see what numbers you can run on the cheap. you could always swap to a bb later on,
i think it would be cool, since you already have the turbo, to run a cheapo sbc with that turbo and see what numbers you can run on the cheap. you could always swap to a bb later on,
I'm going to wait on the turbo setup and save up to put it on the car eventually. Right now I'm just trying to put together a lot of little things and get the car ready. The car will be getting the GT42 and eventually something that I have that's a lot larger.
#254
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After going through everything I took out my seat and removed the power seat slider from it. Which also happened to be a huge pain in the *** since I had no power to move the seat and it was positioned over two of the bolts that held the bracket to the seat. About thirty minutes later I got it off.
#255
This might sound like a really dumb question but my stock seats are out and I cannot figure out how to take everything off the bottom of them???
What am I doing wrong, lol?
What am I doing wrong, lol?
#256
I guess I could have stripped some wire and hooked it up to a car battery, but that would have taken just as long to find everything than just unbolting it. I wish it was that easy, but I seriously cannot find anything at the shop now. One guy moved everything and he had already left by the time I got there.
Once you get those two out you're going to attach the power plug back into the motor and move the motor around so you can see the other two bolts. Otherwise you're going to have to do what I did and pull the plastic parts that cover the side of the slide out and use an open ended wrench to slowly turn them.
Let me know if you need any help and I'll take pictures.
#257
Let me know if you need any help and I'll take pictures.
Just wanted to say this entire thread is really cool, wish I would have done the same thing with my car since I have basically redone everything.
#258
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I guess I could have stripped some wire and hooked it up to a car battery, but that would have taken just as long to find everything than just unbolting it. I wish it was that easy, but I seriously cannot find anything at the shop now. One guy moved everything and he had already left by the time I got there.
#259
EDIT:
This is the slider with the bottom facing upwards. This is the part that bolts to the car. You can also see two or the four large screws that hold the seat to the slider in the plastic bag:
The screw goes into the round hole where you can see it is scored on the bottom left.
That's a quicky version as I'm getting kicked out of my parent's house as I type this. I'll take more pictures for you if you need any more help.
I would've done just that. No need to dick around with finding the right connector size or anything. I was originally going to recommend just using a 12v AC adapter, but I don't think many people have those like I do lol And your jump box + 2" of wire would've worked. I'm sure you could've found a 4" piece of wire to tear up, no?
Last edited by Beaflag VonRathburg; 09-22-2008 at 09:28 PM.
#260
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hey man, ive got a spare cap/rotor i can donate if ya need it. anything for a fellow "LS1tech"er. pm me your addy and all. its a bit older, but still in good running condition. hell as a matter of fact, i have vented and non vented. ill send all of them