Finally Got Pics Of Ovc Wires And Headers
#1
Finally Got Pics Of Ovc Wires And Headers
i took me a while, but i finally got some pics of the header install i did a few months ago. i know that when i was doing my homework on the install i appreciate the people who put these threads up, with pics of course.
heres the stats:
-Pacesetter long tubes w/emissions. i had to unbolt one motor mount at a time and lift the engine at the oil pan to get some tilt to get headers in. headers fit great after bolted down. no fitment problems with the headers. i recommend replacing the motor mounts while you're there. clearance is tight in a few areas around the primaries and probably not worth the risk of putting it all back together and then have rattling from the headers.
-kept egr and removed air and plugged air connection on headers with brass 5/8 flair cap from lowes.
-pacesetter ORY/fitment issues at the driverside floorboard
-Taylor over valve cover kit. i love the look. plenty of clearance between wires and headers. ease of install. bought the kit from thunder racing
-took me about 18 hours to do the install but i took my time with heat sleeving a few wires that got close to the headers. i also changed out my stocker motor mounts for prothane mounts. this is what took the most time!!! all i can say is that the mounts were hell. but worth it. throttle response is stout and extra clearance for the headers.
i think that is everything worth mentioning. any other questions just ask...
heres the stats:
-Pacesetter long tubes w/emissions. i had to unbolt one motor mount at a time and lift the engine at the oil pan to get some tilt to get headers in. headers fit great after bolted down. no fitment problems with the headers. i recommend replacing the motor mounts while you're there. clearance is tight in a few areas around the primaries and probably not worth the risk of putting it all back together and then have rattling from the headers.
-kept egr and removed air and plugged air connection on headers with brass 5/8 flair cap from lowes.
-pacesetter ORY/fitment issues at the driverside floorboard
-Taylor over valve cover kit. i love the look. plenty of clearance between wires and headers. ease of install. bought the kit from thunder racing
-took me about 18 hours to do the install but i took my time with heat sleeving a few wires that got close to the headers. i also changed out my stocker motor mounts for prothane mounts. this is what took the most time!!! all i can say is that the mounts were hell. but worth it. throttle response is stout and extra clearance for the headers.
i think that is everything worth mentioning. any other questions just ask...
#7
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the OTVC wires are usually cut to fit. You have to raoute them and cut them and crimp the terminals on them. Pretty straight forward. I am doing the same thing with mine and going to go with black wires.
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#13
i bought the OVC (over valve cover) wires from thunderracing.com. it came with all the stuff you need to do the job, the wires, valve cover wire looms and even a wire stripping tool. the wires come plenty long to route them any way you want. once you know how long they need to be just cut, strip, and crimp on the terminal and slide the boot over. the kit comes with instructions for those who dont know how to size the wires.
i bought the pacesetter headers and pacesetter ORY from speed engineering (speed-eng.com). i also got them Jet Hot coated for an extra $250 dollars. reduces underhood temps and looks SWEET.
i bought the pacesetter headers and pacesetter ORY from speed engineering (speed-eng.com). i also got them Jet Hot coated for an extra $250 dollars. reduces underhood temps and looks SWEET.
#15
if the egr is deleted there is a risk of detonation. the egr system injects exhaust gas into the intake charge at cruising speeds to reduce combustion chamber temperatures.
i took out the air pump because the only time it is used is at start up when the engine is cold to warm up the catalytic converters quicker. since i took out the converters i took out the air pump.
if you get the emissions headers you can always put on the egr and air to pass emission testing.
i took out the air pump because the only time it is used is at start up when the engine is cold to warm up the catalytic converters quicker. since i took out the converters i took out the air pump.
if you get the emissions headers you can always put on the egr and air to pass emission testing.
#16
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if the egr is deleted there is a risk of detonation. the egr system injects exhaust gas into the intake charge at cruising speeds to reduce combustion chamber temperatures.
i took out the air pump because the only time it is used is at start up when the engine is cold to warm up the catalytic converters quicker. since i took out the converters i took out the air pump.
if you get the emissions headers you can always put on the egr and air to pass emission testing.
i took out the air pump because the only time it is used is at start up when the engine is cold to warm up the catalytic converters quicker. since i took out the converters i took out the air pump.
if you get the emissions headers you can always put on the egr and air to pass emission testing.
#17
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EGR does reduce combustion temp (b/c hot air is less dense), although I don't really think detonation is a common concern. It's mainly to reduce nox emissions. As long as your knock sensor works properly there should be no risk from removing the egr.
Plenty of people have removed it and had no problems.
Plenty of people have removed it and had no problems.
#18
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i deleted my air and just put in a fresh egr valve. i kept mine to reduck spark knock and that rumor of blowing the headgasket on the stock cam kept me away from the blockoff plates.
these are from 5 months ago before the !AIR mod and !AC. love these wires, but i burned a wire
these are even older
these are from 5 months ago before the !AIR mod and !AC. love these wires, but i burned a wire
these are even older
Last edited by Revelation Z28; 02-16-2008 at 01:14 AM.