Quick change cam on LT1
Quick change cam on LT1 Has anyone converted to this setup yet? It is the same as the LSX where you unbolt the rockers and turn two revolutions to take the cam out with the intake and lifters on. PN 88958652
Thanks in advance for the input!
This composite lifter guide is the same as used on LS Series GM small-blocks, but with mounting holes for use on Gen 1 GM small-blocks. For use with hydraulic roller lifters only. The design of the lifter guide makes it possible to remove the camshaft without removing the intake and lifters. There is just enough friction in the guide to hold the lifters in place if the rocker arms are backed off and the camshaft is rotated two full revolutions to push up the lifters. Package services one cylinder head.
Last edited by gatorhead; Feb 27, 2008 at 12:34 PM.
I've never even heard of this, its hard to believe there can be a quick change cam i mean, after you disassemble/take off the: water pump, rad, a/c condenser, har. balencer, opti, drop the pan, take the timing cover off, yada yada, i mean... i think its pointless..... im just curious why do you want to be swapping cams that quickly??
is there a link i'd like to see what ur talkin about man.
is there a link i'd like to see what ur talkin about man.
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...ges=1&pkgid=41
LOL I know there is really no such thing as a quick anything on a LT1
It would be kinda trick to have and also it would prevent you from pulling intake and lifters so that is time and money right there.
Valid point on why you would want to change a cam after you put one in, but then again there have been many that have so just leaving the options open.
LOL I know there is really no such thing as a quick anything on a LT1
It would be kinda trick to have and also it would prevent you from pulling intake and lifters so that is time and money right there.
Valid point on why you would want to change a cam after you put one in, but then again there have been many that have so just leaving the options open.
Last edited by gatorhead; Feb 27, 2008 at 12:34 PM.
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...52-P836C0.aspx
Here is a link I found. It would be nice to not have to remove the top end to change a cam. Like you said though, after you disassemble the bottom end what is a few more bolts and wires to remove.
Here is a link I found. It would be nice to not have to remove the top end to change a cam. Like you said though, after you disassemble the bottom end what is a few more bolts and wires to remove.
I bought a set just for the hell of it, haven't tried it out though but it is installed. And i guess i didn't think about the oil pump drive. O well, i don't really care about taking the intake manifold off.
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most people turn the cam back and forth to get it to mesh with the teeth on the op drive. BUT i wouldnt ever bother trying to do a "quick change" intake gaskets are $12.99 at our o'reilly store and a tube of permatex for 5 bucks. after you d/c your fuel lines, remove the alternator and valve covers. it only take 10-15 minutes to get your intake off, so why not? just as security. thats just me.
people act like its some big deal to pull the intake off on our cars, but theres no antifreeze that runs through it so it makes it 10x easier.
people act like its some big deal to pull the intake off on our cars, but theres no antifreeze that runs through it so it makes it 10x easier.
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you'd definitely be kicking yourself, if one of those guides didn't have quite enough friction and a lifter dropped into your oil pan... then your "quick" cam change will turn into a wrench-throwing extravaganza
DUDE I seriously.. seriously haven't laughed that hard in a while WOW that was some funny ****.
dude everytime i read it i laugh harder.
can you imagine what a pain in the F@#$ A it would be if a lifter fell in? my god, it would more than double the work and add TONS of hours money and hassle. I would never buy this quick change thing i mean we're talking the difference maybe an hour MAX more like 30-45 minutes?
Baaahahahahaha. That's great. I didn't know it was that easy to remove the intake manifold b/c I've already got the valve covers off and the alternator off, maybe I'll get myself an intake gasket and stop the leak coming out the back while I'm already there.
great idea. just make sure all the gasket surfaces are clean when you put it back together, but hey you already new that.
Yea plus I need to clean off the EGR holes that I blocked off b/c I know that the plate and gasket are not seating correctly-leak! Don't ya need to take of the TB too tho?
I've never heard of a problem with ls1 engines and these look to be exactly the same.
Still have to pull the intake so you can pull the oilpump drive
In my wonderment I had completely forgotten about that. I appreciate the input and will not give it a second thought. Thanks! 
removing the opti and converting to a distributor sounds like one hell of an oxymoron to me
I too forgot about the oil pump drive
but another thing i thought of was what if the cam you're installing is a lot higher lift? wouldn't the lobes get caught on the lifter when trying to slide the new cam in? sounds like a big headache waiting to happen