LT1 Plug Swap w/ Headers - Advice Needed!
#1
LT1 Plug Swap w/ Headers - Advice Needed!
So, I'm going to have to get into my baby and get new plugs in there, which sounds easy but it seems far from that.
I have Pacesetters on 'er and it is a literal nightmare in the engine compartment, I have no idea how I'm going to get in there and make this happen, there seems to be almost no viable routes to getting to the plugs, I can barely even touch the boot of any of the plugs with my hands from the top w/o moving anything, the bottom doesn't look too much more promising.
So now for my question, anyone who has done this before with headers please share some advice, my car is in dire need of this, lol.
A local dealership wants 450$ to change the plugs alone, another 300$ for the wires, I'd rather bust my knuckles into oblivion and have it take weeks then pay that amount.
Thanks to anyone who can help me here<3
I have Pacesetters on 'er and it is a literal nightmare in the engine compartment, I have no idea how I'm going to get in there and make this happen, there seems to be almost no viable routes to getting to the plugs, I can barely even touch the boot of any of the plugs with my hands from the top w/o moving anything, the bottom doesn't look too much more promising.
So now for my question, anyone who has done this before with headers please share some advice, my car is in dire need of this, lol.
A local dealership wants 450$ to change the plugs alone, another 300$ for the wires, I'd rather bust my knuckles into oblivion and have it take weeks then pay that amount.
Thanks to anyone who can help me here<3
#2
What kind of headers? Longtubes? If so, those plugs are easy as HELL, the wire's still kinda a pain to router on the passenger side. More info on your setup, hope you got some nice plugs considering you are running a blower.
#3
A local dealership wants 450$ to change the plugs alone, another 300$ for the wires, I'd rather bust my knuckles into oblivion and have it take weeks then pay that amount.
#4
Yes, Pacesetter Long Tubes, I'm gunna be puttin' NGK TR6's on there.
And yes that is crazy, I laughed out loud right into the phone and told them I was coming to get it from them the second I heard that ****.
And yes that is crazy, I laughed out loud right into the phone and told them I was coming to get it from them the second I heard that ****.
#5
Well i'm not sure how easy it would be for you, depending on where your supercharger is. It's pretty simple to get em, some you'll have to get from up top, some from the bottom, its really EASY with longtubes. (if u dont have a blower sitting in the way)
#6
Procharged so its front mounted, well I'm glad to hear it may be easier due to the fact that I have LT's.
I'm gunna be taking a crack at it this Sat, any other advice you can give me or is it all pretty straightforward? It seems to be that way, anyways
I'm gunna be taking a crack at it this Sat, any other advice you can give me or is it all pretty straightforward? It seems to be that way, anyways
#7
about 2 hours i think...thats how long it took me with stock cast manifolds...but i also have small hands and could reach down into little areas...i took off the alt. to get to the front one on the pass. side to make it easier....a LOT easier hope this helps you out some.
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#8
For the passenger side...eh...you're gonna have to try to judge whether to go from top or bottom, the #2 and #8 are probably gonna be the biggest pain in the ***, but still manageable. Once you get underneath there you'll see the best way.
about 2 hours i think...thats how long it took me with stock cast manifolds...but i also have small hands and could reach down into little areas...i took off the alt. to get to the front one on the pass. side to make it easier....a LOT easier hope this helps you out some.
#9
I use an offset wrench and I cut down the handle so it fits better. It makes changing plugs fairly easy, I change all from the top, but #6 is a total PITA.. requires allot of cursing to get that one changed!
One other suggestion is to try to stay with near stock wires or convert to OVC wires. The factory clips will not hold real thick wires, and if you're not careful you'll end up with burnt wires or cut wires if the contact the belt or power steering pulley. The #7 wire is a nightmare the way it's routed and the retainer they use.
I'm running the accell 300+ wires in the stock locations, you can just squeeze them into the factory clips after opening them slightly with a dremel.
One other suggestion is to try to stay with near stock wires or convert to OVC wires. The factory clips will not hold real thick wires, and if you're not careful you'll end up with burnt wires or cut wires if the contact the belt or power steering pulley. The #7 wire is a nightmare the way it's routed and the retainer they use.
I'm running the accell 300+ wires in the stock locations, you can just squeeze them into the factory clips after opening them slightly with a dremel.
#10
ah with pacesetter LT's
# 1 and 3 stupid easy from the top #5 you might be able to get from the top i cant remember but its definitely not bad for #7 its pretty easy from the bottom
# 2 you pretty much have to get the alternator out of there but has to be done from the top #4 can be had from the top i find that if you get a socket on there you can get a gear wrench on the end of it and makes that plug super easy
#6 and 8 can be had from the bottom and watch the routing and boot on number 6 because it can easy touch the header if your not careful
good luck, bring some beer, smokes, (whatever your vice) and you'll get it done
# 1 and 3 stupid easy from the top #5 you might be able to get from the top i cant remember but its definitely not bad for #7 its pretty easy from the bottom
# 2 you pretty much have to get the alternator out of there but has to be done from the top #4 can be had from the top i find that if you get a socket on there you can get a gear wrench on the end of it and makes that plug super easy
#6 and 8 can be had from the bottom and watch the routing and boot on number 6 because it can easy touch the header if your not careful
good luck, bring some beer, smokes, (whatever your vice) and you'll get it done
#11
I can get all my plugs out and back in in about 30 mins with TPiS LT's, but I've done it like 8 times haha... With headers its cake. Most of them come out with a standard 5/8th's spark plug socket and a 3/4'' open end wrench, a few you might be able to use a ratchet on, might need an extension or two, possibly a universal as well.. What ever you do just take your time the first time though, if you have any sort of mechanical ability and some patience to keep your head cool you should be able to have em all out in an hour your first time..
#13
plugs are a snap to get to.
#14
Honestly from underneath it doesn't seem too difficult, in line with what everybody has been saying thus far.
I'm just gunna have to go at them from every angle and make it happen by any means necessary, the car is running so shitty that its either make it happen or don't drive it.... and I didn't spend all of this money to not drive it LOL.
I'm just gunna have to go at them from every angle and make it happen by any means necessary, the car is running so shitty that its either make it happen or don't drive it.... and I didn't spend all of this money to not drive it LOL.
#15
Two Hours?!?
Two Hours!
I wanna be YOU when I grow up!
My first plug change (last weekend): I used the drilled 5/8ths shorty and a 3/4 socket and 3/8 drive ratchet. The driver's side was (realitively speaking) easy - I didn't need to remove anything but the black plastic steering arm and U-joint cover).
The Pass side (however) required the removal of the Alt. and the Starter (oh, and the use of an air ratchet for the plug closest to the Opti!
Double Plus un-fun!
Maybe, by my 3rd or 4th attempt, I could do it in two hours, but my first try took 6.5!
Good Luck!
I wanna be YOU when I grow up!
My first plug change (last weekend): I used the drilled 5/8ths shorty and a 3/4 socket and 3/8 drive ratchet. The driver's side was (realitively speaking) easy - I didn't need to remove anything but the black plastic steering arm and U-joint cover).
The Pass side (however) required the removal of the Alt. and the Starter (oh, and the use of an air ratchet for the plug closest to the Opti!
Double Plus un-fun!
Maybe, by my 3rd or 4th attempt, I could do it in two hours, but my first try took 6.5!
Good Luck!
about 2 hours i think...thats how long it took me with stock cast manifolds...but i also have small hands and could reach down into little areas...i took off the alt. to get to the front one on the pass. side to make it easier....a LOT easier hope this helps you out some.
#16
Two Hours!
I wanna be YOU when I grow up!
My first plug change (last weekend): I used the drilled 5/8ths shorty and a 3/4 socket and 3/8 drive ratchet. The driver's side was (realitively speaking) easy - I didn't need to remove anything but the black plastic steering arm and U-joint cover).
The Pass side (however) required the removal of the Alt. and the Starter (oh, and the use of an air ratchet for the plug closest to the Opti!
Double Plus un-fun!
Maybe, by my 3rd or 4th attempt, I could do it in two hours, but my first try took 6.5!
Good Luck!
I wanna be YOU when I grow up!
My first plug change (last weekend): I used the drilled 5/8ths shorty and a 3/4 socket and 3/8 drive ratchet. The driver's side was (realitively speaking) easy - I didn't need to remove anything but the black plastic steering arm and U-joint cover).
The Pass side (however) required the removal of the Alt. and the Starter (oh, and the use of an air ratchet for the plug closest to the Opti!
Double Plus un-fun!
Maybe, by my 3rd or 4th attempt, I could do it in two hours, but my first try took 6.5!
Good Luck!