Building a lt1 for nitrous?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 152
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From: Indiana
Building a lt1 for nitrous? SO ive been debating numerous motor swaps... But maybe I should just keep my lt1. I would like to make 450 hp n/a and be able to spray upwards of 300 in 2 stages..... What kind of rotating assembly is needed here? ect...
my buddy had a scat 383 cast crank, eagle h beams and srp pistons w/ a cam similar to the 306 and afr LT4 heads. made something like 441 at the tires and close to 700 on a 200 shot of gas. it was indestructible and tuned specifically for spray.
4 bolt main block or splayed,scat crank,eagle h beams,je pistons and of course all forged.I think as far as topend goes you should go solidroller
must have been a 6 speed car.441 rwhp with a baby cam like that is no easy task,Especially tuned for spray.I bet the same motor in my car would make under 400
4 bolt main block or splayed,scat crank,eagle h beams,je pistons and of course all forged.I think as far as topend goes you should go solidroller
4 bolt main block or splayed,scat crank,eagle h beams,je pistons and of course all forged.I think as far as topend goes you should go solidroller
I second that, I bet you're like me and give a rats *** about dynos. The track tells me if my junk works.
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Probally, but maybe like 5 times, lol I think a 300 shot is pushing it on a stock crank. I plan to spray in the future but dont plan to go past 200 on stock crank. If I step it up some I will probally go to a cast steel 3.50 stroke crank for like a 250 shot direct port.
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TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,265
Likes: 1
From: CHITOWN
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,265
Likes: 1
From: CHITOWN
Probally, but maybe like 5 times, lol I think a 300 shot is pushing it on a stock crank. I plan to spray in the future but dont plan to go past 200 on stock crank. If I step it up some I will probally go to a cast steel 3.50 stroke crank for like a 250 shot direct port.
I would do a budget build spray motor since you sound new at it
Shot peened rods, with forged pistons so if you blow it up you wont feel bad and saves you money if there is a problem so you live and learn then you can build the beastly motor after
It all comes down to talking to the engine builder and listening to their input on parts. they make money on labor so don't feel like they are trying to screw you when they tell you to buy something expensive sounding. give them a budget and they'll already have a combination for you to use that they know works. If they don't you might want to call another shop.
You need a 4340 forged bottom end,4 bolt mains, splayed or stock(vette block)
Nothing wrong with Eagle rotating assemblies, there are probably more eagle bottom ends in fast cars than any other(if I had to guess)
The key here using that much gas is the piston and ring pack location...and the type of ring that needs to be gapped FOR the spray. I would run a Hellfire ring.
You need a dedicated cell with 116 octane to run that much safely. And if you dont know how to run that much PAY someone to show you how to flow the system for each jet setting. And where to set the timing. Do it AT THE TRACK...you can baseline on a dyno, but the car at the track on the spray acts differently than on the dyno, needs to be fine tuned at the track.
You need a GOOD timing retard/ignition box.
I dont feel the need for a solid roller here, the spray will make alot of power with a hyd roller to 6500 rpm.
Just my opinions.
Nothing wrong with Eagle rotating assemblies, there are probably more eagle bottom ends in fast cars than any other(if I had to guess)
The key here using that much gas is the piston and ring pack location...and the type of ring that needs to be gapped FOR the spray. I would run a Hellfire ring.
You need a dedicated cell with 116 octane to run that much safely. And if you dont know how to run that much PAY someone to show you how to flow the system for each jet setting. And where to set the timing. Do it AT THE TRACK...you can baseline on a dyno, but the car at the track on the spray acts differently than on the dyno, needs to be fine tuned at the track.
You need a GOOD timing retard/ignition box.
I dont feel the need for a solid roller here, the spray will make alot of power with a hyd roller to 6500 rpm.
Just my opinions.
Banned
Joined: Mar 2008
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My 383 will see 8000rpms and the pistons/ring combo is set up for 450-500hp if I get crazy. But it is a callies rotating assembly with custom wiseco pistons(12-1). The eagle stuff will most likely hold it if every thing is checked and in tolerance. The eagle stuff has been known to be out of tolerance on the rod and a main journals. A big shot will only need about 20* of timing.
