View Poll Results: Best clutch for the $$
O'Reilly's OEM + McLeod disc
20
15.50%
RAM Powergrip
8
6.20%
RAM Powergrip HD
22
17.05%
RAM Premium Replacement
2
1.55%
RAM HDX
8
6.20%
Spec Stage 1
4
3.10%
Spec Stage 2
14
10.85%
Spec Stage 3
37
28.68%
Spec Stage 4
9
6.98%
Zoom MU
5
3.88%
Voters: 129. You may not vote on this poll
VOTE: Best clutch for $$
05-02-2008, 09:12 PM
#1
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VOTE: Best clutch for $$ Throwout bearing went out on me. So Im gonna replace the clutch and slave cylinder while I'm in there. But I can't decide on which to buy. Looking to spend under $500. It is my daily driver, driven 500+ miles per week, with occasional trips to the track. Won't see more than 350rwhp, if that. I like the feel of a grabby "racey" clutch, I like a firm pedal...but at the same time I don't want to be wearing a hole in my shoe. I hate chatter. I definitely need one to last a long time, as much as I drive.
So vote on which option you think would be best for me.
So vote on which option you think would be best for me.
Last edited by Spiers; 05-03-2008 at 12:00 AM.
05-02-2008, 11:23 PM
#4
I have a spec 4. I just installed it and it's just getting broke in. It would shake the car pretty hard trying to get going slow the first hundred miles or so, but it is coming thru that finally. I believe it's gonna be a great one.
05-02-2008, 11:53 PM
#6
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I have such bad chatter in 1st and reverse... like real ******* bad.... so i think i need a new clutch or a throwout bearing soon. pretty sure its a stock clutch in my car
05-03-2008, 12:59 AM
#7
lol spec 4 is supposed to be used for drag only....if you are gonna go that far over the top your best bet is spec stage 3+. Very streetable and I know guys running that on stroker ls1s making 500+ at the wheels. you say you hate chatter...then dont get the spec 4
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05-03-2008, 10:36 AM
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Spec 3+ cost too much. From searching Ive found that supposedly every single aftermarket clutch still uses the same pressure plate (LT4) and that the disc is what is different. Was reccommended to buy a stock replacement from Autozone, Advance, etc...and buy an aftermarket disc such as McLeod. Thoughts?
05-03-2008, 12:01 PM
#11
Spec 3+ cost too much. From searching Ive found that supposedly every single aftermarket clutch still uses the same pressure plate (LT4) and that the disc is what is different. Was reccommended to buy a stock replacement from Autozone, Advance, etc...and buy an aftermarket disc such as McLeod. Thoughts?
I even bought the RAM at the same time to compare and sent it back. After months and a few trips to the track I have to say the ZOOM is great. Holds well with my 383 and a tire at the track and is very smooth on engagement. I chose it because it simply has more "beef" on the bones. Hub is superior in construction, springs are bigger. I did also buy the mcleod dual friction disc and found it to be flimsy and the springs small and encased in plastic
a few pics to look at
first 2 are the ZOOM, then RAM, then my dead SPEC
05-03-2008, 11:45 PM
#12
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Too bad the best clutch out there isn't listed.
McLeod Street Twin.
For $1100 I got an aluminum twin disk capable of more HP and anything above, PLUS it was NICE to daily drive, strong enough to outlast 3 10-bolt rearends, and 160,000 miles. When we pulled it (to replace the engine with a 396 last month) it still had plenty of friction pad left.
I'd never buy a different clutch for a LTx. Not for a stock one, and definitely not for my 500+hp 396.
McLeod Street Twin.
For $1100 I got an aluminum twin disk capable of more HP and anything above, PLUS it was NICE to daily drive, strong enough to outlast 3 10-bolt rearends, and 160,000 miles. When we pulled it (to replace the engine with a 396 last month) it still had plenty of friction pad left.
I'd never buy a different clutch for a LTx. Not for a stock one, and definitely not for my 500+hp 396.
05-03-2008, 11:48 PM
#13
Too bad the best clutch out there isn't listed.
McLeod Street Twin.
For $1100 I got an aluminum twin disk capable of more HP and anything above, PLUS it was NICE to daily drive, strong enough to outlast 3 10-bolt rearends, and 160,000 miles. When we pulled it (to replace the engine with a 396 last month) it still had plenty of friction pad left.
I'd never buy a different clutch for a LTx. Not for a stock one, and definitely not for my 500+hp 396.
McLeod Street Twin.
For $1100 I got an aluminum twin disk capable of more HP and anything above, PLUS it was NICE to daily drive, strong enough to outlast 3 10-bolt rearends, and 160,000 miles. When we pulled it (to replace the engine with a 396 last month) it still had plenty of friction pad left.
I'd never buy a different clutch for a LTx. Not for a stock one, and definitely not for my 500+hp 396.
Absolutely. I have it and no complaints here either.
05-04-2008, 08:35 PM
#15
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Too bad the best clutch out there isn't listed.
McLeod Street Twin.
For $1100 I got an aluminum twin disk capable of more HP and anything above, PLUS it was NICE to daily drive, strong enough to outlast 3 10-bolt rearends, and 160,000 miles. When we pulled it (to replace the engine with a 396 last month) it still had plenty of friction pad left.
I'd never buy a different clutch for a LTx. Not for a stock one, and definitely not for my 500+hp 396.
McLeod Street Twin.
For $1100 I got an aluminum twin disk capable of more HP and anything above, PLUS it was NICE to daily drive, strong enough to outlast 3 10-bolt rearends, and 160,000 miles. When we pulled it (to replace the engine with a 396 last month) it still had plenty of friction pad left.
I'd never buy a different clutch for a LTx. Not for a stock one, and definitely not for my 500+hp 396.
05-04-2008, 08:50 PM
#16
My spec 4 does not chatter. Don't tell him it'll chatter without experience with that happening. Have you any experience with a spec 4 doing some chattering? I didn't think so. I do have some experience with a spec 4, and yes it is a strip clutch, but it does not chatter, it wants rev'd and dumped, not babied on the street.
05-04-2008, 09:04 PM
#17
well this is taken straight from their site
"For heavily modified engines or engines of any modification level being used in the above driving environments, where an instantaneous engagement and light weight are beneficial. Not street-friendly due to harsh engagement."
"For heavily modified engines or engines of any modification level being used in the above driving environments, where an instantaneous engagement and light weight are beneficial. Not street-friendly due to harsh engagement."
05-04-2008, 11:21 PM
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05-05-2008, 12:25 AM
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i have the older spec stage 3 6 puck ceramic and its just a little to hard to drive in traffic for a dd. It holds great but a pain in the *** to drive (it chatters its *** off)