jatsfirebird03

I have a hotcam, lt4 topend package. i make 336rwhp but want more. no one posted there rwhp with there cams.

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

What the heck is a "cadillac cam"?

jatsfirebird03

so far all i've seen is the cc306 are there any other cams that people have good #s with?

crazyhorses

iTrader: (1)

I went to get the car dyno tuned today, I got 320rwhp/355rwtq with cc 501 cam only + bolt-ons. I had valve float that started around 4900rpm's and the injectors were maxing out so he leaned it out so the dc wouldn't be so high. Even then, with every pull the tuner did, I increased horsepower. He said power should keep increasing after 4.9k rpms cuz the curve looks good until that point, then it flattens out. I'm gonna take care of those things and go back in about a month.

He did a base run with my mods and the tune gave me about 20hp and tq all across the board.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

So how do the fair up at the track?

jatsfirebird03

are there anyone else's #s with a cam only?...nice #s though crazyhorse

slick1851

Why does this POS get brought up over and over again?

Get a custom cut cam, explain to them what you want the car to do and what your looking for...

slick1851

336whp and you spent 2,500 for the topend? Man thats are junk numbers

Should have put that money towards a REAL HEAD N CAM package

fireman

Well, last time we were at the track, I ran a 12.42 @ 115mph with the clutch slipping a bit just after the upshifts. And, well, my friends clutch disc shattered on the 2-3 shift during his first run. My car is a '95 Formula with a complete '98up Trans Am conversion and it is full weight.

That was a year ago, neither car has been to the strip since. He has gone turbo, so his is alot faster now.

jatsfirebird03

i bought the car with the package on it. I'm looking for more power the easiest way i can. I'm sorry everyone can't afford a custom grind cam. But i want to put a nice cam in it without alot of $

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

In terms of a good off-the shelf cam for a stock bottom end, there are a couple that are better than the cam you have and would make a few more ponies but I wouldnt think the price for the cam at $250 plus gaskets $100-200 would make it worth another 10rwhp or so. In terms of size you dont want to go much larger in duration than what you have to play it safe on a stock bottom end. If you want to change the cam I would by far go with a custom grind and that would be alot more worth your while. Seriously another $100 over an off-the shelf is a pretty damn good hp/$ ration if it will make another 10-15hp over a cam that would already put down 10 more than the hotcam. I just think all that money for minimal power isnt the best idea. Nitrous would certainly be more cost effective or maybe saving up and having the heads worked or maybe focusing on your gearing and suspension if you dont already have that covered.

jatsfirebird03

I have 373 and a bigger lock, all the suspention is don with the help from hotchkis and QA1.I already have the nitrous,but was lookin to keep it naturally aspirated.So u think i sould try to get the heads worked on first?

jatsfirebird03

BOLO what kind of cam are u running?

fireman

What?

He will make substantially more HP by ditching the hotcam for a CC306 or GM847. If he has the LT4 heads like he said + bolt ons, he'll see 375rwhp or so with just a cam swap.

If I swapped my CC306 for a Hotcam today, I would be down AT LEAST 30rwhp.

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

Maybe you failed to see that he said on the stock bottom end. On a stock bottom end you really dont want to spin it much past 6300/6400 too often or trouble starts to occur. Some people have gotten lucky like I assume yourself but not the majority. The cc306 and GM847 are not ideal camshafts for stock bottom end cars. Sure they will make more peak hp but but you need to spin the motor pretty damn high where it becomes unsafe. Dont believe me just talk to some reputable people who know and will tell you the same thing, Bret Bauer, Lloyd Elliot, Advanced Induction, just to name a few.

Slowmaro95Z28

Being cool with you and all I hate to argue but I just got my tune today for my 306 cam. I had it done again by Bryan herter at PCM For Less and I'm happy to say it's only shifting at 6300 - 6400. A 306 cam DOES NOT need as much rpm as people think. Most stop making power between 6000 and 6100.

PNYKLR-TA

iTrader: (1)

DAMN LOOK AT THIS GUY NAME DROPPIN! HAHA But i agree with what he is saying in a way. if you dont wanna chance blowing up your motor or spining a bearing from revving too high then get a decent sized cam, and make your car be able to put the power to the ground. all too often people go with a huge cam and have no supporting mods drivetrain wise and they wonder why they dyno so high but still dont have the 1/4 mile numbers they are looking for, and people with a little less hp but with drivetrain mods rear end/ gears/ stall/ the whole bit run quiet a bit faster. its all how you use what you got. you could have the biggest cam in the world and put down more rwhp than every other lt1 but if you simply don't have your whole car set up then that rwhp means nothing at the track.

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

Every car is different. He might have put it there because thats a safe rpm level, the car will still haul there but to get the most out of it you need to stretch it out. My cc503 which is quite alot smaller 224/230 peaked just at about 6000 and it worked best with a 6400 shiftpoint. It still hauled at 6100 but not as much as it did at 6400.

MadZ28 the tuner would be glad to explain this to anyone if you email him. He will state the same facts that I am. He told me that if he were to tune my car with the 503 that he would set the shifts at 6100 unless I requested different. Reason being is because thats a totally safe rpm spot. He then said to manually shift the auto at the track so everytime Im on the street and going WOT I dont need to spin the thing to 6400.

Edit: Here is a link with the respected LT1 tuner MadWolf aka MadZ28 explaining where you should shift such cams as the cc306, gm847 etc. for maximum performance.

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/show...&highlight=847

for the lazy here is some quick quoting:

"I've seen TOO MANY instances were people go with a big cam (847, 306, etc) and they rev or plan to rev the cam to about 6100-6200. DO NOT get a cam that big if you will rev it to only 6100-6200 or even 6300. You will get CRAPPY times if you do. These cams like 6700-6800 shifts!
If you do a 847, 306, 233/239 or even 230/236 and shift at 61-6200ish, you will be in the low 13s! You'll be lucky for a high 12.
There are plenty of cams out there which can take advantage of your targeted range much better and will yield better times than a bigger cam in the same range. Please consider this."

"If a cam peaks at 6050, it doesn't mean that you should shift it at 6200. My 233/239 shifting at 6000 yielded almost stock times on 3.23 gears. (101ish traps or so with long tubes!) With 3.23 gears shifting at 6700-6750, it trapped 106.66.

With 4.10s, shifting at ~6000ish, it trapped about 106. This cam peaked at 6050 on the dyno. Both of these were done in the same day.

With 4.10s, shifting 6700-6800, it trapped 109.33."

Slowmaro95Z28

I'm thinking about getting my car dyno tuned by Bryan once I get my last few parts on so I'll let you know. I can tell you it's a completely different car already though.

fireman

Heresay dude, and its not unsafe to spin a stock shortblock to 6400rpm. I make peak power at 6200rpm too. Heck, I'm at 337rwhp at only 5k rpm.

Could I run faster by shifting a bit higher? yeah maybe a little.