LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

new 2 LT1

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Old May 30, 2008 | 09:34 AM
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my neighbor has an auto lt1 camaro and im thinkin of makin it a drag car for maybe bracket racing. what kind of mods will get me into the 11.5 spot? how good are these motors compared to the ls1 in strength? my list goes as the fallowing so far.. converter, trans brake, big cam, nitrous, L/t with cut outs, slick, skinny.. any other suporting mods? besides a fuel pump and maybe a tune? is there anything that everyone replaces before they try to race the lt1 camaros? what is first to break?

thanks!! Harley
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Old May 30, 2008 | 09:38 AM
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lol Your neighbor has one and you want to turn it into a car for you? Kidding, I assume you're buying it heh

They are just as good as LS as far as strength in my book. While LSxs are designed much better than previous ones, being Alu plays a slight roll in their possible lack of strength, but again being designed with all that in mind I'm sure they're very strong.

To the subject: Properly setup and tuned suspension along with bolt ons + stall, a tune, and 150shot should put you on the mark. With DRs that is. But if you're spraying out of the hole, be wary of your stock 10bolt. Speaking of that, 3.73s couldn't hurt either (A4s love them).
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Old May 30, 2008 | 09:59 AM
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LT-1 Blocks (cast iron) vs. LS1 blocks (Alum) are much stronger and less prone to flex, however the LS1's do incorporate 6 bolt mains that bullet proofs the bottom end.
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Old May 30, 2008 | 10:07 AM
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I would skip the trans brake and not go too big on the cam.

The LT1's somewhat unique intake manifold significantly raises the rpm levels needed with a set duration when compared to a gen 1 motor. Most of the time a cam around 224 degrees on the intake will endup needing to rev to nearly 6500rpms which is a somewhat agreed upon reasonable limit for the stock shortblock.

Problem is LT1 cars are cheap which has the forums flooded with less experianced and less knowledgable folks than they were a few years ago. You are going to find far more bad info than good. This is not to say the forums are a bad thing. This is to say the first order of buisiness should be for you to spend time reading and see WHO has a clue and who does not and then you can start to sort through the info you find.
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Old May 30, 2008 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
I would skip the trans brake and not go too big on the cam.

The LT1's somewhat unique intake manifold significantly raises the rpm levels needed with a set duration when compared to a gen 1 motor. Most of the time a cam around 224 degrees on the intake will endup needing to rev to nearly 6500rpms which is a somewhat agreed upon reasonable limit for the stock shortblock.

Problem is LT1 cars are cheap which has the forums flooded with less experianced and less knowledgable folks than they were a few years ago. You are going to find far more bad info than good. This is not to say the forums are a bad thing. This is to say the first order of buisiness should be for you to spend time reading and see WHO has a clue and who does not and then you can start to sort through the info you find.

thanks! i was reading in the cam sticky about big cams for these cars so i know a little about all that.. I've been on forums for over five years so i read you loud and clear about sorting threw the good and bad info.
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Old May 30, 2008 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
I would skip the trans brake and not go too big on the cam.

The LT1's somewhat unique intake manifold significantly raises the rpm levels needed with a set duration when compared to a gen 1 motor. Most of the time a cam around 224 degrees on the intake will endup needing to rev to nearly 6500rpms which is a somewhat agreed upon reasonable limit for the stock shortblock.

Problem is LT1 cars are cheap which has the forums flooded with less experianced and less knowledgable folks than they were a few years ago. You are going to find far more bad info than good. This is not to say the forums are a bad thing. This is to say the first order of buisiness should be for you to spend time reading and see WHO has a clue and who does not and then you can start to sort through the info you find.
Caprice is referring to me no doubt. He just simply doesn't like me and A) thinks I'm a kid (along with everyone else) B) I'm flat out stupid. Which is fine, Caprice is the forum ******* We agree to hate each other. That's not saying he doesn't give good info, but also doesn't mean me and other's don't either. He just goes about it horribly wrong.
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Old May 30, 2008 | 10:27 AM
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WOW!!!! Both you guys need to grow up as this guys thread is no place for your bitchin.
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Old May 30, 2008 | 10:40 AM
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I was checking out the f/s for lt1s and everything is SOO much cheaper than parts for my gto!! I'm going to pick this z28 up and get some stufffff!!
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Old May 30, 2008 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Formula350
Caprice is referring to me no doubt. He just simply doesn't like me and A) thinks I'm a kid (along with everyone else) B) I'm flat out stupid. Which is fine, Caprice is the forum ******* We agree to hate each other. That's not saying he doesn't give good info, but also doesn't mean me and other's don't either. He just goes about it horribly wrong.
Actually I was not, I pretty much skip over your mosts without reading them, unless I see your quoting me.

Far as two of you taking shots at me the OP already agreed with me.
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Old May 30, 2008 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Far as two of you taking shots at me the OP already agreed with me.
As did I.
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Old May 30, 2008 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Actually I was not, I pretty much skip over your mosts without reading them, unless I see your quoting me.

Far as two of you taking shots at me the OP already agreed with me.
FYI - If you are talking about me then I was not taking shots at you just telling both of you to get along, if you were meaning Formula350 in your post. That is all!!!
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Old May 30, 2008 | 11:18 AM
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Another way to look at 11.5 1/4, is if the car and driver is 3700 lbs then you need 600 flywheel. If 3500 565 flywheel.

That of course assumes your car has appropriate gears, stall, traction, etc The calculators are an estimate nothing exact, and consistent with the fact that all dynos have different reading--there is no gold standard to compare other than the track IMO...

But from the calculator your goal is achievable and reasonable for a well built car. Meaning 11.5 is not easy, but within reach.
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Old May 30, 2008 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by harlesjohn
how good are these motors compared to the ls1 in strength? My list goes as the fallowing so far.. converter, trans brake, big cam, nitrous, L/t with cut outs, slick, skinny.. any other suporting mods? besides a fuel pump and maybe a tune? is there anything that everyone replaces before they try to race the lt1 camaros? what is first to break?
thanks!! Harley
LS1 is said to be 'better'! BUT two friends have them one ran 8 psi with methanol injection on pro tune and lost a piston. His dyno measured ~540 RWHP so that is even less impressive since it is a Z06.

Second has a 6.2 Liter and he also broke a piston. He used ~175 Juice.

To me that shows they are NOT stronger for pistons, the blocks and cranks I do NOT know. But an LT1 with just forged pistons will take ~600 RWHP

I agree with CapriceMgr skip the transbrake. It shocks the crap out of the drive train and will be a nightmare for the .2 - .3 it will give you.

Cam and comparable head is required, and a tune or tune by you is a MUST.

Well if this is a drag car the rear-end will go so plan to replace it from the start, or schedule time for it when it does give.

Sit down determine your hp goals, your preferred approach (juice, turbo, charger,) estimate cost, determine your ability to fund it, how much work you can do....

REMEMBER plan for changes--additional cost and time. But plan so you minimize what you fix then replace. REPLACE at start.

Poor planning is rewarded with **** poor performance and excessive cost!
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Old May 30, 2008 | 12:07 PM
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I'm not trying to take a shot at you but if your only getting 550 hp and blowing your **** up that means you got some tuning issues to deal with. i see sts turbo ls1 and ls2 gto's making mid 500 up to 600 just bolt on with a tune.. but other than that i agree with setting up something that will last long and be consistant.
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Old May 30, 2008 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by harlesjohn
I'm not trying to take a shot at you but if your only getting 550 hp and blowing your **** up that means you got some tuning issues to deal with.
Well first they were not my setups!

They are friends, and I helped pull the heads off both motors so I can give first hand testimony. The LSX setups were both professionally tuned, and neither motor ran lean so a tune would not have helped. It is simply the LSX pistons are NOT as strong as people think they are.

I tune my own LT1's and they hold and make more power than 550 RWHP

Originally Posted by harlesjohn
i see sts turbo ls1 and ls2 gto's making mid 500 up to 600 just bolt on with a tune.
I interpret your 'i see' as you have read and that you believe what others claim.

Go for it, I gave you ACTUAL no BS examples of two LS motors. But hey they also post and read here, and both told me if others make 600 RWHP on stock LS, surely they could make their ~525 RWHP without any problems.

Well Shirley is cruel, and they are now rebuilding their indestructable LSX motors. They chose to believe people's boast and now they know better one motor lasted ~10,000 the other about 5,000 miles not what I call longevity!

Good luck
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Old May 30, 2008 | 02:00 PM
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i've seen someone blow up a 7.0 lsx motor so it can happen to anyone i understand what your saying. thats awsome that the lt1s can see mid 500 hp without to many known problems! good news for me!!
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Old May 30, 2008 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by harlesjohn
i've seen someone blow up a 7.0 lsx motor so it can happen to anyone i understand what your saying. thats awsome that the lt1s can see mid 500 hp without to many known problems! good news for me!!
Yes

BUT that is Forged pistons. The rods, crank are stout and will take +550 RWHP. Stock LT1 pistons are weak! Meaning they will NOT hold boost or take abuse, they will take stock + 150 NOS. Above that point you are entering a gray zone, and most go forged.
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Old May 30, 2008 | 03:49 PM
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sounds good! thanks for the info. now the hunting down of parts will begin!!!
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Old May 30, 2008 | 04:50 PM
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There is some debate as to what causes stock LT1 pistons to break under boost. Often blamed on detonation causing cracking BUT some guys have claimed it is the ring gap butting and ripping the top of the ring lands out. If that is the case a rering with bigger gap would help a lot, but for that effort might as well slap some forged slugs in.

I find hows and why all too often overlooked details. People want yes and no answers but that is not truely learning anything.
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Old May 30, 2008 | 05:02 PM
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whats a semi cheap but well working forged piston for the lt1?
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