new 2 LT1
thanks!! Harley
Kidding, I assume you're buying it hehThey are just as good as LS as far as strength in my book. While LSxs are designed much better than previous ones, being Alu plays a slight roll in their possible lack of strength, but again being designed with all that in mind I'm sure they're very strong.
To the subject: Properly setup and tuned suspension along with bolt ons + stall, a tune, and 150shot should put you on the mark. With DRs that is. But if you're spraying out of the hole, be wary of your stock 10bolt. Speaking of that, 3.73s couldn't hurt either (A4s love them).
The LT1's somewhat unique intake manifold significantly raises the rpm levels needed with a set duration when compared to a gen 1 motor. Most of the time a cam around 224 degrees on the intake will endup needing to rev to nearly 6500rpms which is a somewhat agreed upon reasonable limit for the stock shortblock.
Problem is LT1 cars are cheap which has the forums flooded with less experianced and less knowledgable folks than they were a few years ago. You are going to find far more bad info than good. This is not to say the forums are a bad thing. This is to say the first order of buisiness should be for you to spend time reading and see WHO has a clue and who does not and then you can start to sort through the info you find.
The LT1's somewhat unique intake manifold significantly raises the rpm levels needed with a set duration when compared to a gen 1 motor. Most of the time a cam around 224 degrees on the intake will endup needing to rev to nearly 6500rpms which is a somewhat agreed upon reasonable limit for the stock shortblock.
Problem is LT1 cars are cheap which has the forums flooded with less experianced and less knowledgable folks than they were a few years ago. You are going to find far more bad info than good. This is not to say the forums are a bad thing. This is to say the first order of buisiness should be for you to spend time reading and see WHO has a clue and who does not and then you can start to sort through the info you find.
thanks! i was reading in the cam sticky about big cams for these cars so i know a little about all that.. I've been on forums for over five years so i read you loud and clear about sorting threw the good and bad info.
The LT1's somewhat unique intake manifold significantly raises the rpm levels needed with a set duration when compared to a gen 1 motor. Most of the time a cam around 224 degrees on the intake will endup needing to rev to nearly 6500rpms which is a somewhat agreed upon reasonable limit for the stock shortblock.
Problem is LT1 cars are cheap which has the forums flooded with less experianced and less knowledgable folks than they were a few years ago. You are going to find far more bad info than good. This is not to say the forums are a bad thing. This is to say the first order of buisiness should be for you to spend time reading and see WHO has a clue and who does not and then you can start to sort through the info you find.
We agree to hate each other. That's not saying he doesn't give good info, but also doesn't mean me and other's don't either. He just goes about it horribly wrong. Trending Topics
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
We agree to hate each other. That's not saying he doesn't give good info, but also doesn't mean me and other's don't either. He just goes about it horribly wrong.Far as two of you taking shots at me the OP already agreed with me.
That of course assumes your car has appropriate gears, stall, traction, etc The calculators are an estimate nothing exact, and consistent with the fact that all dynos have different reading--there is no gold standard to compare other than the track IMO...
But from the calculator your goal is achievable and reasonable for a well built car. Meaning 11.5 is not easy, but within reach.
thanks!! Harley
Second has a 6.2 Liter and he also broke a piston. He used ~175 Juice.
To me that shows they are NOT stronger for pistons, the blocks and cranks I do NOT know. But an LT1 with just forged pistons will take ~600 RWHP
I agree with CapriceMgr skip the transbrake. It shocks the crap out of the drive train and will be a nightmare for the .2 - .3 it will give you.
Cam and comparable head is required, and a tune or tune by you is a MUST.
Well if this is a drag car the rear-end will go so plan to replace it from the start, or schedule time for it when it does give.
Sit down determine your hp goals, your preferred approach (juice, turbo, charger,) estimate cost, determine your ability to fund it, how much work you can do....
REMEMBER plan for changes--additional cost and time. But plan so you minimize what you fix then replace. REPLACE at start.
Poor planning is rewarded with **** poor performance and excessive cost!
They are friends, and I helped pull the heads off both motors so I can give first hand testimony. The LSX setups were both professionally tuned, and neither motor ran lean so a tune would not have helped. It is simply the LSX pistons are NOT as strong as people think they are.
I tune my own LT1's and they hold and make more power than 550 RWHP
Go for it, I gave you ACTUAL no BS examples of two LS motors. But hey they also post and read here, and both told me if others make 600 RWHP on stock LS, surely they could make their ~525 RWHP without any problems.
Well Shirley is cruel, and they are now rebuilding their indestructable LSX motors. They chose to believe people's boast and now they know better one motor lasted ~10,000 the other about 5,000 miles not what I call longevity!
Good luck
BUT that is Forged pistons. The rods, crank are stout and will take +550 RWHP. Stock LT1 pistons are weak! Meaning they will NOT hold boost or take abuse, they will take stock + 150 NOS. Above that point you are entering a gray zone, and most go forged.
I find hows and why all too often overlooked details. People want yes and no answers but that is not truely learning anything.


