ENGINE REBUILD.. help
Eagle is not that good, too many dimensional problems. Scat is better. Honestly though a "budget" motor is usually a step BACKWARDS from stock. The stock crank is better than the $200 cast aftermarket stuff.
Displacement does NOT add power, airflow does, so don't think you can "build" a motor and drop untouched stock heads on it and gain anything. Stock heads are a GREAT starting point in good hands.
400 at the wheels is easily doable on a stock shortblock IF you do things right. And it can be fairly reliable if you use good parts to do it rather than the more popular mediocre parts and aggressive cam that breaks stuff.
Tunercat will let you tune the car yourself if you are so inclined, cost about $90, then you need a datacable at about $60 nd Datamaster is great logging software so you can see what the engine and tranny(is automatic) are doing.
If you are willing to learn you will love playing with an injected vehicle, guys accustomed to carbed stuff can not beleve the combination of power, drivability, reliability and economy we get.
We use much higher compression ratios than older carbed stuff too, 12:1 is pretty common on pump gas depending on the cam.
Also be aware most cam company rpm recommendations are WAY off for the LT1, seems they fail to consider the inpact our unique intake has on powerband and in some cases they advertize litterally 1000rpms lower than you will actually need.
96capricemgr is correct, Do you now how many customers that have come to me saying that their combos should make power to like 6800 RPM and on the Dyno it was all over by 6000, The only cars I have tuned that truly made power all the way to 6800+ was big cubic inch LT's with very aggressive solid rollers..Dont get me wrong, I have had a few Hydro cams pull to 6500 or so but they are few...Sounds like you have a good start though..
Trending Topics
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time

