Flywheel bolts backed out again! 2nd time!
11-24-2008, 06:41 PM
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Flywheel bolts backed out again! 2nd time! I recently bought a 402 from TSP w/ the Eagle forged crank. Everything was going great (1400 miles on the motor and running great w/ no vibrations) when my clutch started to act up and started making weird noises and you could feel it in the clutch pedal. So I took her apart only to find all my flywheel bolts started to back out 
This time around I decided I would use the stock GM bolts w/ lock-tite rather than the ARP w/ lock-tite. Both times I used the 3 stage torque method and double checked that they were at the 74 ft. lbs or whatever is was supposed to be at. I always double check my torque numbers and make sure I use a accurate torque wrench that gets tested periotically.
Everything was working great until yesterday. After only putting 400 miles since I got it all back together I was driving to the LA auto show and when I got there I started to feel a vibration through my clutch pedal again
Within 5 minutes it was doing the exact thing as before. I can almost guarantee that the flywheel bolts backed out again. Its the same exact feeling and sound as before.
I have yet to take my Trans out to make sure, but I am almost 1000% certain this is what it’s going to be. I will be taking it out sometime very soon, probably within the next couple days. I have had every type of clutch problem so I have learned what is what in the feel and the sound. (Broken pressure plate spring, Trans dowel stuck in the clutch spring, bad slave/master, slipping clutch etc.)
What do you think could be causing this (Crank endplay, unbalanced clutch/flywheel etc.) I don’t want to put this thing back together just to have to rip it apart again 400 miles later, especially since I do it in my garage with Jack-stands. I didn’t have any major vibration issues with my car but there was a little bit of vibration I could feel through the shift *** but not enough to think anything was abnormal. I think the first thing I am going to do is get my LS7 flywheel/clutch assembly checked when I get it off to see if they were improperly balanced.
What is going on here? Someone please help. Any info will be great and thanks in Advance.
Also, I will be calling TSP and asking for there advice once I get the Trans out and I am certain that this is the problem.
This time around I decided I would use the stock GM bolts w/ lock-tite rather than the ARP w/ lock-tite. Both times I used the 3 stage torque method and double checked that they were at the 74 ft. lbs or whatever is was supposed to be at. I always double check my torque numbers and make sure I use a accurate torque wrench that gets tested periotically.
Everything was working great until yesterday. After only putting 400 miles since I got it all back together I was driving to the LA auto show and when I got there I started to feel a vibration through my clutch pedal again
Within 5 minutes it was doing the exact thing as before. I can almost guarantee that the flywheel bolts backed out again. Its the same exact feeling and sound as before. I have yet to take my Trans out to make sure, but I am almost 1000% certain this is what it’s going to be. I will be taking it out sometime very soon, probably within the next couple days. I have had every type of clutch problem so I have learned what is what in the feel and the sound. (Broken pressure plate spring, Trans dowel stuck in the clutch spring, bad slave/master, slipping clutch etc.)
What do you think could be causing this (Crank endplay, unbalanced clutch/flywheel etc.) I don’t want to put this thing back together just to have to rip it apart again 400 miles later, especially since I do it in my garage with Jack-stands. I didn’t have any major vibration issues with my car but there was a little bit of vibration I could feel through the shift *** but not enough to think anything was abnormal. I think the first thing I am going to do is get my LS7 flywheel/clutch assembly checked when I get it off to see if they were improperly balanced.
What is going on here? Someone please help. Any info will be great and thanks in Advance.
Also, I will be calling TSP and asking for there advice once I get the Trans out and I am certain that this is the problem.
Last edited by Fifedogg; 11-24-2008 at 10:28 PM.
11-24-2008, 09:50 PM
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11-25-2008, 07:37 PM
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This is a known problem inside GM. This is why the LSA and LS9 use 8-bolt and 9-bolt patterns. GMPP will be using an 8-bolt pattern on all of the new LSX line of engines.
11-26-2008, 02:37 PM
#6
I thought you were supposed to torque the bolts to a certain value (20 lb-ft?) and then an additional 30 degrees. I don't know what ARP recommends for their bolts, but I would use red Loctite on them.
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11-26-2008, 05:54 PM
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Dang it...I am getting ready to drop in my the almost identical setup setup tonight.. eagle crank, LS7 clutch and oem bolts...does anyone know where to get a 7/16 dowel quick?
11-26-2008, 06:04 PM
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11-26-2008, 06:07 PM
#12
Your best bet is a machine shop tool supply house, or you can make your own out of a vise handle like I did. Maybe a dealership will have one, if you want to pay their mark up. Maybe a machine shop close to you would have a 7/16", as well.
11-26-2008, 07:14 PM
#14
If the dealer has one, it will be specific for that location. Show the parts guy the pic of where it goes. Would think the dowel pin to be 7/16" diameter x approx. 1/2" long. You only want it long enough to reach the outer face of the flywheel (abouts) when installed. Any metal 7/16" dowel pin will work. Just make sure you are buying a dowel pin, they are high strength solid steel. A dowel pin will also be diameter toleranced to fit correctly into the hole. Don't just buy a carbon steel rod & then cut it down. Don't let them sell you a roll pin either. A roll pin is hollow & has a slit down its' length. Good-luck
12-02-2008, 01:22 AM
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if your going to be reusing loctite, you need to make sure that you clean out the threads in the crank as well as on the bolt...
also once threaded into a hole loctite will start to dry fairly quickly...you must torque the bolts before the loctite dries or else it will ruin the whole process...
i usually use red loctite on the flywheel bolts.
also once threaded into a hole loctite will start to dry fairly quickly...you must torque the bolts before the loctite dries or else it will ruin the whole process...
i usually use red loctite on the flywheel bolts.
12-02-2008, 11:29 PM
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Well I took her apart tonight and sure enough all of the bolts were loose. I really hope this dowel thing works for me. I will be using red loctite this time as well as adding about 7-10 ft lbs to the 74 ft lbs I'm supposed to tighten them to. Does anyone have any other ideas. I will check the crank end play as well just to be safe.
I've decided with everything out this time I am going to rebuild the Trans as well as put a Monster Stage 3 clutch in her.
I've decided with everything out this time I am going to rebuild the Trans as well as put a Monster Stage 3 clutch in her.
12-03-2008, 08:57 AM
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what kind of noises are you hearing? My transmission has started making noises lately. When the car is running and the clutch is out I can hear what sounds like the transmission or clutch turning. When I press the clutch down I can hear whatever is turning slow down to a stop. Then again as soon as I let out on the clutch I hear whatever is turning speed back up. Its almost a "whining" noise. Also I can "feel" the slight vibrations through the clutch pedal.
I might be pulling the tranny soon.
BTW- my car is a cam only stock LS1. Car has 112,000 miles on it and tranny was rebuilt at 36,000 miles. Clutch is a centerforce 12" DF. with about 20,000 miles on it.
I might be pulling the tranny soon.
BTW- my car is a cam only stock LS1. Car has 112,000 miles on it and tranny was rebuilt at 36,000 miles. Clutch is a centerforce 12" DF. with about 20,000 miles on it.