yeah the black seal is just to keep fluid from seeping out the cap... haha, you can bleed/use a system without a cap on it at all

 

yes i know...
the only t places that it could possibly be sucking air is 1.)the cable connecting the slave to the master or 2.) the hose connecting the bottom of reservior to the top of the master cylinder.

i even tightened the zip tie holding the hose onto the bottome of the reservior and made no difference.

 

Had the same problem in my car with Carteks clutch. I bled and bled and nothing seemed to work. I replaced the master and slave with new ones and tried bleeding again and it still didnt work. I finally called cartek last week and they told me I needed to modify the stock master in order for the clutch to work properly. I followed the sticky up top on how to make your stock master adjustable. I did this mod then re bled while I had the master out, then did the normal push the pedal down crack the valve routine and now my clutch actually works. Spent 3-4 weeks trying to figure it out and after a 10min mod all is well now. I would highly suggest taking a look at this mod.

 

but would that also fix a spongy pedal. it goes down like three or four inches before it even starts engaging.when it does work normal i still have to pull the pedal back up a couple inches to get it fully up top.

 

Yes, here was my problem.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-cylinder.html

 

i guess ill try that.
I still just cant seem to understand how that can cause the pedal to be spongy like that though

 

Me either but I promise you it worked. One other thing you could try before you go cutting up your master. You said you swapped slaves right? Take the main connector off the old slave, slide a piece of clear tubing used on the mighty vac onto the fitting you just removed from the old slave, hook the other end of the tubing to the canister that goes with the might vac then hook the tubing off the canister to the pump. Hook the fitting off the master to the fitting you just put on the might vac tubuing. I bled my master like this and it worked 15x better then trying to open and close the fitting. All you need to do is keep the resivour (spelling) full and using the pump start pumping to about 15hga and watch all the bubbles run out. It only took me two trys to get all the air out. Sorry if it doesnt make sense.

 

well ive got my other master and slave sitting on the shelf at the shop. if it ultimately was not the masters functions that was bad, i should just be able to use that one, shoudnt i?

 

Yes, Thats exactly what I did. I bought all new stuff and it did the same thing, so I decided to try the adjustable mod on my old master before I go cut up a new one. Just wish I wouldve know this before I swapped the slave, it would have saved me some $$$$

 

it wouldve saved me a **** load. i will try it on mine this weekend

 

No kidding, luckily I knew someone that works at Oreilys so I got everything like half off

 

Ever think of doing the drill mod? it seems like you bled it just fine. If you dont want to do the drill mod then i suggest buying a new line from mcleod, it doesnt have the restriction so no drill mod is needed

 

Do you have a remote bleeder or no?

 

no just have a mity vac.
i made the adj. over the weekend. turned out.... well .... ok i guess. havent installed it yet but hope to do so soon. i really dont think it will fix the problem but i will definately give it a shot.

 

the drill mod is already done as well.

 

Make sure you bench bleed the crap out of the master while its off the car..

 

i definately will. i have to take the guts of the one that is in my car out and put into the one i made adjustable because i busted a seal on the one i made adjustable. yay.

 

i will probly do this project friday. and if it does not fix it, then i give up. ill just let a performance shop figure it out. just really want to figure it out on my own. i hope that this will do the trick

 

If the master is out of the car, gravity bleed it, just hang it up somewhere in which you can make sure air will make its way up the system while fluid goes down. Also leave it hanging overnight with a full reservoir, even after all that work, I had found air made its way up in the morning.

 

My car was acting the same way, turned out the clutch had a little bit of oil on it from the rear main leaking. the oil on the clutch dick swells up when it gets hot and the pedal doesnt have enough travel to fully disengage the clutch.I would def. check that out!