sounds like it still has air in it. The one pump bleeding method is the best way to get the fluid through but once it is bled half decent try gravity bleeding about 100mm of fluid through it to finish it off. Fill the reservior and never let it run under half way, then top up. There could be tiny bubbles in the system still that is causing the clutch not to full disengage that is more noticable under high rpm shifts. Once the fluid gets hotter the problem gets worse. So use the pump method to bleed the big air pockets out as u have done and finish off with a gravity bleed to ensure all tiny bubbles are out of the system. Pumping the pedal does a good job of stirring the bubbles up, thats about it. I also had an issue with the fluid I was using, the factory stuff was ok I went to a supermarket brand fluid and had shift problems maybe due to high water content and or compressability at high temps, so I switched to motul dot 5.1 now have great pedal feel and no notchy shifts.

cheers

 

I am having this same issue, and I ordered a new slave just to be safe since mine is old as hell. The system worked 100% prefectly in my WS6 but now that I swapped the T56 over to my other T/A I can't get into gears at all, especially when hot. Reverse is an exercise in shutting the car off to shift. I have bled it 3 different ways with no luck, and I have about 2/3 of the pedal as "freeplay". I'm going to try the adjustable master thing this weekend I guess.

 

its a shame they are not adjustable from factory, as the clutch plate flywheel wears u made need to adjust 1/8" or so to get it back to spec. From what I have read on here it seams to be a big issue. I will have to eventually mod mine and my car is the aussie version of the G8 with a 6 speed so should be a fun exercise.

 

Well the way the system is designed, they shouldn't have to be.

Hydraulic clutches are "self adjusting" to begin with, which basically means they adjust for free play automatically. And our cars use a self adjusting pressure plate, which compensates for wear on the clutch disc.

So in a properly functioning system, there should be no need for any user adjustment. When you get into aftermarket clutches and flywheels though, it becomes more necessary.

 

Not sure if you solved this or not, got through the first page and skipped to here. When my pedal got stuck down after WOT, everyone told me to do the drill mod. I havent got it back together yet afterward, but several people told me this. Did you do this yet?

 

He said earlier in the post he did the drill mod already. I have become so frustrated with the clutch setup in these cars, I know what you are going through and sorry to say, but don't have any real solutions because all of the common fixes have already been posted in this thread. I upgraded to the newer master and slave, put in an LS2 clutch and new flywheel. put a heat shield on the braided hose and did the drill mod. Should have added a remote bleeder at the time but didn't. Bled the system every way known to man including using a Mighty Vac. It works and feels fine for awhile but goes right back to hard going into gear at high rpm and notchy feeling. If the car sits for more than 3 weeks, the clutch pedal has a lot of play in it for the first 15 minutes of driving and then goes away somewhat. The hydraulics sucks in these cars. I just purchased Tick's new $$$ adjustable master, I'm hoping this is the answer to all these stupid problems. Keep us updated on your progress.

 

I figured, but thought I would mention it. Mine is taking a long time to bleed too, my arms are tired as hell.

 

lol...your arms are tired? How are you bleeding it?

 

I cut a hole in the floor above the bleeder and I am using my hands to push the pedal and open the bleeder from inside the car.

 

ahhh....that's about the only method I haven't tried. Good grief, see what GM has made us stoop to with their crappy hydraulics.

 

I found an excellent method to bleed this bitch, now that I've had to do it 19 billion times just to get the car to move. I didn't want a hole so I just let the back of the trans down with a small jack supporting it (just undid the xmember), shoved a 7/16ths fuel hose about 2 ft long on the bleeder after I cracked it, and shoved that in a plastic bottle half full of GTLMA. Then I just pumped like 10 reservior-fulls through and wow you should see the crap that came out. Now the clutch works about 25% of the time instead of 10% of the time. STILL waiting for my new slave from SDPC, they delayed it for like 2 weeks cuz I ordered a clutch alignment tool and it was out of stock. Hopefully the clutch will disengage more than 1/4th of the time after I replace all the hydraulics. Thing is seriously a bear to drive with with only the syncros to shift by and rev matching, as the clutch pedal literally is only for decoration.

 

Hmmm....don't get your hopes up to high. You are still going back with the same ole crappy GM hydraulics. Been there done that. I just put an order in for one of the new Tick master cylinders. Seems to be the only thing on the market that may solve a lot of these shifting issues. Have you considered adding a remote bleeder since you are swapping out the slave? May as well while you are in there.

 

Yeah unfortunately $300 is a bit much for me right now. Otherwise I would have gotten it. Strange thing, I had to drive the car last night, and it made a weird popping sound from the clutch pedal area and now it SORTA works, still won't go into reverse but it is much better than it was. I'm guessing the seal inside the master was out of place and popped back in.

 

Yeah, that method doesnt work for me. With my poly engine mounts the tranny only drops down about a half inch. Not good enough to reach it any better. Now it is great, I can pull the carpet back, bleed it, drive it, come home, pull the carpet back and bleed again. No more putting up the car in the air everytime I need to bleed it.

OK so this Tick master is $300 and is much better? I think I have mine completely bled now, but it still bangs 4th gear. All the other gears are fine. The package the tranny came in was mega damaged, so we are thinking something got damaged in shipping.

So do you think dropping the tranny on the input shaft or ??? could cause internal damage? Like just 4th gear? I havent gone past 4th so maybe 5th and 6th too, but could it have caused damage?

 

So I figured it out finally after I got the tranny down today. The bushing that goes on the slave was missing. Not sure exactly how it got assembled that way, but the slave and the pressure plate fingers weren't even touching. The master was aslo filled with metal shaving and chunks.

 

Wow...that expains the weird poping noises and inconsistent issues.

 

Definitely, I also found out that auto parts store brand masters for 98-00 have the tall stop still, and the 01-02 have a tiny little short stop in it. Huge difference.