Does YOUR Clutch Setup need a Shim?
07-05-2009, 08:40 PM
#81
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SPEC clutch and shim I had a stage 3 with no shim for 5 years no problem with clutch. I installed a SPEC stage 2+ this weekend, new slave, new flywheel. I measured both "a" and "b" had 1/16th diff. So I opted not to put in the shim. Now my pedal is near the floor after bleeding the system. It is hard shifting and will not go in reverse. If you start the car in gear it will creep forward, obviously the clutch is not fully disengaging. I will pull it this week and put in the shim. Even when measureing you may still need to shim. If you are having problems getting the car in gear, after you have bled the clutch you may have to shim it for proper engagement even if your measurements were in tolerance.
07-17-2009, 01:16 PM
#82
I had a stage 3 with no shim for 5 years no problem with clutch. I installed a SPEC stage 2+ this weekend, new slave, new flywheel. I measured both "a" and "b" had 1/16th diff. So I opted not to put in the shim. Now my pedal is near the floor after bleeding the system. It is hard shifting and will not go in reverse. If you start the car in gear it will creep forward, obviously the clutch is not fully disengaging. I will pull it this week and put in the shim. Even when measureing you may still need to shim. If you are having problems getting the car in gear, after you have bled the clutch you may have to shim it for proper engagement even if your measurements were in tolerance.
07-18-2009, 12:47 PM
#83
I have a Textralia clutch and it came with a brand new slave/TO bearing assembly. My gap comes out to 5/16" (.313) which is more than either Tick or Ram recommends. With my old (extremely worn out) T/O assy. and the new clutch, the gap is only 1/8" (.125) which is supposed to be ok. In comparing the two T/O assys. without the springs in them, the new one compresses all the way in until the plastic retainer piece contacts the base of the assy. while the old one stops about 3/16" from hitting. Does this sound right? Is there something wrong with the new T/O assy.? If this sounds normal, where do I get shims from? Thanks.
09-11-2009, 10:57 PM
#87
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took me a few tries, but I see now.
If the measurement on "B" is greater then "A" it will keep slight preasure on the fingers of the presure plate the hole time....
correct?
If the measurement on "B" is greater then "A" it will keep slight preasure on the fingers of the presure plate the hole time....
correct?
Last edited by maxspeed96ct; 09-19-2009 at 11:53 PM.
10-01-2009, 01:52 PM
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I have read this whole thread through now & I'm glad you guys made it a sticky for guys like me to find. I totally understand the shiming (if required) measurements. I have been all over the Aussie LS1 forums asking these question but so far nobody has answered me. Even with the various aftermarket clutch sponsors on those sites
.I'm in the middle of making up a Twin Disc clutch kit to fit a T56 M12 up behind a Supercharged 3800 GMH V6. Presently nobody made a flywheel to do this so a custom one has been made now. Some measurement & info has been very hard to obtain, even from the clutch manufacturers (Clutch Industries Australia).
A few questions I have you may be able to answer.
First question(s):
On the T56 with CSC TOB in say your 2004 GTO (our monaro
), how far will the CSC move out with one full depression of the clutch pedal, assuming a correctly bled system ?Example: if the CSC is preloaded back 5/8" from rest postion (uninstalled unit), will it extend forward the full 5/8" with one full depression of the clutch pedal. Or will it only move out say 7/16" dependant on master cylinder volume/per stroke ?
Second question(s):
Do all clutch pressure plates need the same amount of diaphragm finger deflection to release the plate(s) fully, like 3/8" or 1/2" ?
Can the diaphragm fingers be over deflected if the setting up of the slave is wrong, causing some sort of damage to the pressure plate ?
Thanks for your help.
Cheers
Deek
Last edited by OZ38; 10-02-2009 at 01:07 PM. Reason: spelling errors
10-02-2009, 03:44 PM
#91
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mmm... does anyone see these posts when they are tucked away inside the sticky threads ???
Maybe I need to put my question forward in the General Manual Transmission forum section ?
Cheers
Deek
Maybe I need to put my question forward in the General Manual Transmission forum section ?
Cheers
Deek
10-06-2009, 01:39 AM
#92
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Correct
I have read this whole thread through now & I'm glad you guys made it a sticky for guys like me to find. I totally understand the shiming (if required) measurements. I have been all over the Aussie LS1 forums asking these question but so far nobody has answered me. Even with the various aftermarket clutch sponsors on those sites .
I'm in the middle of making up a Twin Disc clutch kit to fit a T56 M12 up behind a Supercharged 3800 GMH V6. Presently nobody made a flywheel to do this so a custom one has been made now. Some measurement & info has been very hard to obtain, even from the clutch manufacturers (Clutch Industries Australia).
A few questions I have you may be able to answer.
First question(s):
On the T56 with CSC TOB in say your 2004 GTO (our monaro ), how far will the CSC move out with one full depression of the clutch pedal, assuming a correctly bled system ?
Example: if the CSC is preloaded back 5/8" from rest postion (uninstalled unit), will it extend forward the full 5/8" with one full depression of the clutch pedal. Or will it only move out say 7/16" dependant on master cylinder volume/per stroke ?
Second question(s):
Do all clutch pressure plates need the same amount of diaphragm finger deflection to release the plate(s) fully, like 3/8" or 1/2" ?
Can the diaphragm fingers be over deflected if the setting up of the slave is wrong, causing some sort of damage to the pressure plate ?
Thanks for your help.
Cheers
Deek
I have read this whole thread through now & I'm glad you guys made it a sticky for guys like me to find. I totally understand the shiming (if required) measurements. I have been all over the Aussie LS1 forums asking these question but so far nobody has answered me. Even with the various aftermarket clutch sponsors on those sites
.I'm in the middle of making up a Twin Disc clutch kit to fit a T56 M12 up behind a Supercharged 3800 GMH V6. Presently nobody made a flywheel to do this so a custom one has been made now. Some measurement & info has been very hard to obtain, even from the clutch manufacturers (Clutch Industries Australia).
A few questions I have you may be able to answer.
First question(s):
On the T56 with CSC TOB in say your 2004 GTO (our monaro
), how far will the CSC move out with one full depression of the clutch pedal, assuming a correctly bled system ?Example: if the CSC is preloaded back 5/8" from rest postion (uninstalled unit), will it extend forward the full 5/8" with one full depression of the clutch pedal. Or will it only move out say 7/16" dependant on master cylinder volume/per stroke ?
Second question(s):
Do all clutch pressure plates need the same amount of diaphragm finger deflection to release the plate(s) fully, like 3/8" or 1/2" ?
Can the diaphragm fingers be over deflected if the setting up of the slave is wrong, causing some sort of damage to the pressure plate ?
Thanks for your help.
Cheers
Deek
10-21-2009, 10:37 PM
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I installed a Spec 3+ in my 2001 Corvette and was unaware of the possible need for a shim. So, i didn t measure it when it was apart. Everything works Great so far!
10-22-2009, 09:38 AM
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On the T56 with CSC TOB in say your 2004 GTO (our monaro
), how far will the CSC move out with one full depression of the clutch pedal, assuming a correctly bled system ?Example: if the CSC is preloaded back 5/8" from rest postion (uninstalled unit), will it extend forward the full 5/8" with one full depression of the clutch pedal. Or will it only move out say 7/16" dependant on master cylinder volume/per stroke ?
Second question(s):
Do all clutch pressure plates need the same amount of diaphragm finger deflection to release the plate(s) fully, like 3/8" or 1/2" ?
Can the diaphragm fingers be over deflected if the setting up of the slave is wrong, causing some sort of damage to the pressure plate ?
Thanks for your help.
Cheers
Deek
Not being an *** my friend, just telling you that is why you have not been helped yet.
PM coming, so as not to
10-22-2009, 12:14 PM
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It all makes sense to me today about measuring etc. but now i've got conflicting measurements.
According to Tick the gap should be .0625-.125 & RAM says .175-.225 gap..... I've got a Spec 3+ what gap should i shoot for?
According to Tick the gap should be .0625-.125 & RAM says .175-.225 gap..... I've got a Spec 3+ what gap should i shoot for?
10-22-2009, 07:14 PM
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more problems..... i just measured all my stuff and its -.220" in other words I have no gap and if i bolted everything together the TOB would push in the fingers .220" before i even touched the pedal........... this is stupid. i miss automatics right now. HELP!!!!!!
10-22-2009, 08:30 PM
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Ok new news, i figured out that the slave cylinder wasn't retracted all the way but now it is 100% and its still no gap or very little best case.
Distance "A" from fingers to bell housing flange is average of 2.328"
Distance "B" from bearing surface of TOB to flange of torque tube average is 2.355"
= -.027 gap (negative gap)
I can't figure out whats wrong? I've triple checked everything and its all right.
Only thing i can think of is I bought a new lightweight Yella Terra steel flywheel and could the offset from the surface area where the bolt holes are to the flywheel surface be machined wrong? that would throw that number into a negative really easy if it was......
Distance "A" from fingers to bell housing flange is average of 2.328"
Distance "B" from bearing surface of TOB to flange of torque tube average is 2.355"
= -.027 gap (negative gap)
I can't figure out whats wrong? I've triple checked everything and its all right.
Only thing i can think of is I bought a new lightweight Yella Terra steel flywheel and could the offset from the surface area where the bolt holes are to the flywheel surface be machined wrong? that would throw that number into a negative really easy if it was......
10-29-2009, 11:14 AM
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Ok new news, i figured out that the slave cylinder wasn't retracted all the way but now it is 100% and its still no gap or very little best case.
Distance "A" from fingers to bell housing flange is average of 2.328"
Distance "B" from bearing surface of TOB to flange of torque tube average is 2.355"
= -.027 gap (negative gap)
I can't figure out whats wrong? I've triple checked everything and its all right.
Only thing i can think of is I bought a new lightweight Yella Terra steel flywheel and could the offset from the surface area where the bolt holes are to the flywheel surface be machined wrong? that would throw that number into a negative really easy if it was......
Distance "A" from fingers to bell housing flange is average of 2.328"
Distance "B" from bearing surface of TOB to flange of torque tube average is 2.355"
= -.027 gap (negative gap)
I can't figure out whats wrong? I've triple checked everything and its all right.
Only thing i can think of is I bought a new lightweight Yella Terra steel flywheel and could the offset from the surface area where the bolt holes are to the flywheel surface be machined wrong? that would throw that number into a negative really easy if it was......
This is from Ram clutches for the F-body.
http://www.ramclutches.com/Tech/Tech...%20Bearing.jpg
Would the torque tube flange on a Vette be the "same equivilent" measuring reference point as the "mounting face of transmission" on an F-body ?
.
11-05-2009, 09:50 PM
#100
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Update: I got the right flywheel and its a SLP standard weight and everything is good as far as a gap is concerned. Its .050 gap with new throw out bearing and the old shot one measures .072 gap so I'm assuming it'll break in and be perfect.
I got it all back together and the clutch engages right off the floor and its hard to shift so basically the clutch is not disengaging.... what do I do? or what is wrong? i bled it over and over and pedal still feels the same.
LSTUD what end up happening???? anyone help me please!
I got it all back together and the clutch engages right off the floor and its hard to shift so basically the clutch is not disengaging.... what do I do? or what is wrong? i bled it over and over and pedal still feels the same.
LSTUD what end up happening???? anyone help me please!
