Sorry, switched it to a thumbnail.

I wasn't sure if I was seeing brake fluid coming from the bellhousing, or if I still had residue from an oil leak I had so I pulled the trans to check out the slave. I haven't had my brake reservoir going down, so I was pretty sure it wasn't a leak, but wanted to be sure.

The main thing I just need to know is how far the slave needs to be pushed in for an accurate measurement for the shim.

 

just push the slave down as far as it will go by hand because that is what it will act like when its intalled. Its not necessary to remove the spring to try and bottom out the slave for measurement like earlier in this thread states. Some slaves do not bottom out to the base and that is fine its just the way they are designed.

rx7's have to use and adapter fitting or custom hybrid line to adapt from aftermarket clutch master cylinders to the t56 tranny line so make sure your line was made good with no leaks.

 

The line is good with no leaks. I didn't remove the spring either, it would be easier to measure without it but I didn't want to disassemble the slave at all.

 

This makes no sense to me. In order for accurate measurements to compare all measurements should be taken the same way. 1/4" difference is huge.

 

The bearing must be fully seated at the bottom of it's travel wherever that point may be. If all it travels is to within 1/4" of the base then that is how far it will travel when installed. You can't falesly add a 1/4" of travel into your measurement when in fact in reality it doesn't travel that far.

I think the slaves are just designed differently, maybe one has a thicker base then the other so the bearing will bottom out to one of the bases with one style but not the other. However the travel on both designs is the same.

I've seen both designs and they both worked, my ACT clutch needed no shim with both types of slaves I've used. One bottomed out to the base and one didn't but I measured both and neither required a shim.

 

The clutch "self/auto" adjusts to the appropriate range over its life. I would assume the clamping force would vary across the adjustment range depicted due to the geometry changes, which if installing a shim with this clutch, then "would" alter the clamping force from its original design. My guess is the engineers did a pretty good job at keeping the clamping force consistent enough to not be an issue over the clutch life span with the power ratings the clutch is designed for, again just my guess. I don't have the means to measure the clamping force at both extremes to know for sure.


The clutch is self-adjusting and from my understanding of how it works, (the link below and in my original post), the adjustment is set the little yellow springs fully compressed. Then once installed and the clutch pedal is fully pressed, the adjusters adjust themselves to the "proper" dimension, "automatically" for the given disc thickness. As the disc wears, the adjusters keep adjusting.
http://paceperformance.com/files/pdf/zo6clutchadj.pdf


From the same position as outlined in the first post of this thread.


I did take note of all three of my slaves, 1 new, 2 used, all are different, 2 are plastic, one metal. I recall alll were within approx .010" of each other fully compressed, (thickness of the seal will affect fully compressed height), and fully open, again within .010"-.020", which is dependent on the retaining clip that keeps the piston together.

Hope that helps,
Paul

 

Does this allways have to be performed when installing a LS7 clutch?

 

The link did not work. I found the instructions here:

http://paceperformance.com/files/pdf/zo6clutchadj.pdf

 

how do I go about getting a set of shims I am thinking 1/8" and 2 1/16" shims just incase won't know till I measure it all up. I would prefer to get them through summit if I can?

 

I'd get on the slave cylinder/throwout bearing manufacturer's site and see what parts are offered and who retails their products.

 

Speed Inc sells shims.

 

how thick are they and are they stackable?

 

I've got shims CNC laser cut out of T3 aluminum. 0.125in for $10.00ea and .050in shims for $7.00ea

The .050's are great to use when using a re-surfaced flywheel

 

do your clutches need to be shimmed?

 

For anyone having issues like this, it is because there is air in the system and not bled properly. Always crack bleeder, depress pedal-hold, nip bleeder, release pedal, crack bleeder, depress, repeat etc. Once u have majority of air pockets there will be some tiny bubbles in the system, gravity bleed for another minute or two to completely get all the air from the system.

 

This seemed the best thread to post on .
For someone who has put everything back togeather and then comes across this thread . . . Lol
What are the synptoms of needing a shim ? I have new PP , clutch flywheel , throw out bearing combo , and a Ram slave cylinder , have done the drill mod .
Bleed system many times , home and had a shop do it . The pedal is very solid , I have pedal pressure almost immediately .
The car creeps in gear with the clutch in and it grinds into all gears with the engine running , With the engine off it goes into the gears correctly .
My conclusion is that the slave is not pushing the throwout bearing in far enough to disengage the clutch . And yes the clutch manafacture says not to use a shim .
Anyone agree or disagree ?

 

wow grinds in all gears must not be releasing at all! jack the car up on stands start the car put it in first let out the clutch get the wheels rolling, depress the clutch to the floor.

-do the wheels stop soon? or keep turning, they should eventually stop completely.

-if they keep turning then, you got to get more pedal travel adjustable slave or time to shim, I have 1/16" air gap works good.

also proper oil in trans? should be dexron 3 or 4 tranny fluid if I recall, do not use, gear oil, that would definitely, cause grinding?

 

does anyone know if the act hdss clutch needs a shim ?

 

Every install need to be measured.

 

very important 100% agree!