Actual power/performance loss with LS7 clutch?
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Actual power/performance loss with LS7 clutch?
I have an 01 Z06 and I am getting a 228r installed and also will be upgrading my clutch. Strongly considering an LS7 clutch & FW which I believe is about 8lbs heavier than my stock LS6 clutch. Curious as to what the actual difference on the dyno and in the 1/4 would be.
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A lot of people do not recommend aluminum flywheels for a street car, including many of the clutch manufacturers themselves such as Centerforce. The driveability definitely takes a hit with such a light flywheel, especially for people who frequently get stuck in traffic and/or live in a hilly area.
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I hear you on the houston traffic. If you do use a alum flywheel with the ls7 it is almost the same weight as the stock ls1/6 setup. The flywheel and pressure plate spin together. No difference if the flywheel is heavier or the pressure plate is heavier, as long as the whole assembly is close. You get the clamp of the ls7 with no more rotational weight on alum setup. When you go to an alum with the stock setup or similar weight stock setup then you will see some changes.
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A lot of people do not recommend aluminum flywheels for a street car, including many of the clutch manufacturers themselves such as Centerforce. The driveability definitely takes a hit with such a light flywheel, especially for people who frequently get stuck in traffic and/or live in a hilly area.
Now if you can't drive a stick, it's certainly not the car I'd learn on.
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I hear that you loose 10-15 hp with them so I guess its accurate. I am considering a aluminum flywheel with another ls7 set up when my clutch is shot. I didnt notice any loss with mine just a much better holding clutch.
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Serious on the aluminum flywheel traffic bullshit? My setup right now weighs 37lbs and the fidanza flywheel I think was the most noticeable thing I've done to the car, and it really isn't that bad to drive. So tired of people moaning about aluminum flywheels when 90% of them have never had one. Don't Cobras come with them stock and they are heavier cars? Revs are so fast and moving from a dead stop just requires a little more gas, that's it.
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lightweight forged steel flywheel
I just thought that I would throw my two cents in when it comes to weight versus rotating mass. Here are the calculations on our stage 1 clutch which would be equivilent to the LS7 clutch you are interested in. However our plate is a 3400 lbs plate and is rated at 500 hp. The lightweight flywheel that we put with it is a forged steel flywheel that only weighs 15.4lbs this makes it good for gaining power and makes it a little eaiser to drive than the aluminum flywheel. Here are the calculations based against stock
Comparing the 15.4 lb 2-LS1-STU flywheel with 3-1908 plate to the stock 22.3 lb flywheel and stock plate
Ours – total weight 37.7
Stock – total weight 44
The Moment of Inertia for our plate/flywheel is 867.82 lb-in^2 and stock is 1031.24 lb-in^2. This means that with lower moment of inertia the engine has less resistance to rotate the flywheel freeing up horsepower. With this also comes improved acceleration. Typically looking at about a minimum of a 5-8 hp gain and about a tenth off current quarter mile time.
Creating a Multi-Disc setup will even more lower the moment of inertia which will result in even more horsepower and faster acceleration.
Comparing the 15.4 lb 2-LS1-STU flywheel with 3-1908 plate to the stock 22.3 lb flywheel and stock plate
Ours – total weight 37.7
Stock – total weight 44
The Moment of Inertia for our plate/flywheel is 867.82 lb-in^2 and stock is 1031.24 lb-in^2. This means that with lower moment of inertia the engine has less resistance to rotate the flywheel freeing up horsepower. With this also comes improved acceleration. Typically looking at about a minimum of a 5-8 hp gain and about a tenth off current quarter mile time.
Creating a Multi-Disc setup will even more lower the moment of inertia which will result in even more horsepower and faster acceleration.