Wow! I have ALOT more noise. I did a search and read about it, and even saw a post about the exhaust pulse traveling through the poly mount and into the interior. But I have a poly tranny mount in my IROC, so I didn't think it was a big deal. The IROC has an auto tranny whereas my T/A has a T-56, that must make a HUGE difference. It sounds like the engine is kinda "puttering" now with the pulses coming into the interior.

This thing is loud. I actually looked under the car when I got back from the test drive to make sure the y-pipe didn't move somehow and made sure nothing was loose with the mount and support brace. Everything seems in order. Guess I need to get used to this thing.

Everyone else experience the same thing?

 

Yeah, same here. I got an ES poly mount, the vibration and noise was too much- feels like you can feel every cylinder pulse. Then I tried the Prothane poly mount. Same thing. Others said it takes time to break in, so I gave it about 3000 miles, it got a little better but again I got tired of it, went back to my 1Le mount.

 

Did you use that plate that comes w/ it? I didn't b/c I read it makes the noise worse and makes the mount taller than stock and could cause the tranny to sit too high and bump the tunnel.

 

You may still be bumping the tunnel under acceleration (crossmember flex), you may want to verify your clearance between the trans and trans tunnel. It may take a couple washers to get the space you need (just watch your driveshaft angles!).

Just my thoughts....

 

I shaved the "preload" bumps off. Helped alot, but it's still very stiff.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I don't think it's hitting the tunnel at all, I ran it hard a couple times last night. The noise comes in at about 2500 or so rpm and it kind of resonates.

So you think the shaft angle and/or noise would be better w/ the preload bumps off?

 

I'd measure the distance from the crossmember to the mounting pad on the stock mount and make the energy suspension "match" that distance. If the energy suspension mount is 1/4 inch taller, space the crossmember down 1/4 inch and that may cure any geometry problems. After that, it will be a matter of the difference in materials between the poly and the stock mount.

Just my thoughts....

 

You can swap the poly mount for a 1LE mount if you want to. The 1LE mount is stiffer then the OEM mount but not as bad as the poly unit.

 

The 01-02 cars have the 1LE as the standard mount.

 

Really?

 

Well his is a 98, whats the difference if a 01-02 has the 1LE mount too.

 

This true? I might've just wasted my money on a Prothane mount

 

It was only $23!! LOL

 

Hey thats 23 more bucks to my Buy a 12 bolt fund!

 

Oh you have one of those fund too?! That makes two of us! I also see your a Cartek customer, very nice!

 

I think anyone that owns an f-body and starts modding it has a 12 bolt fund

My problem is, I have 2 f-bods w/ stock 10 bolts, I don't even want to spend $2200+ on 1 rear, let alone 2. So I'm going to have to make a decision sometime soon on which car to keep. The IROC should be in the high 10's next year w/ the 150 shot and tuning, but I'd like to get the Trans Am up over the 450 rwhp N/A mark too. Why couldn't GM just give us something like the Ford 8.8?

 

I have a 2002.....easy enough....

 

My 01 stock mount feels sloppy as hell. I cant imagine that its a 1LE piece. Taking off my shifter jumps easily 3/4".

 

Well I'll update...I just had a Spec 3 put in by Eastside yesterday and had them throw in the Prothane trans mount. Its really not that bad compared to what I was expecting - especially after having ridden in a Cavalier with a poly trans mount (i know, Jbody != Fbody). Anyways there's only slightly more vibration noticed at idle, which is expected with a lope happy came like a T1. Driving around doesn't feel much different. The biggest difference is at startup and shutdown, the car shakes alot more for that brief second or 2 when the motor is first fireing. At least now I should never have to worry about ripping this thing up with a hard shift.