i've got a bolt on '02 SS with a 6 speed, pro 5.0 shifter, and an ls7 clutch. during normal driving, the shifter is pretty notchy but i figure its just because of the pro 5.0. when i try to shift at higher rpms, it can be very hard to get into 2nd. it's like the shifter hits a wall and tries to stop and then it clicks into gear. it's very bad when i'm powershifting. if i just gam it in hard, i can shift, but i don't think it should take near the effort that i have to use. i let another guy drive it and when he went to hit 2nd, it did the same thing and he hit the rev limiter and kind of missed the gear. all other manual transmition cars that i've driven have been way smoother than mine. anybody have any ideas?

 

Check the shifter stops on the pro5.0, make sure they're backed all the way out and locked. Check for clutch drag on a level surface too.. (Clutch in, brakes off, rev to 5K and see if it creeps)

 

Sounds like your clutch fluid is being heated up/boiled and you need to bleed it. It is probably dark and nasty colored. Does the pedal stick at all? Have you done the drill mod yet? https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-write-up.html

 

Mine does the same, but only when downshifting? I can shift normally, but i'll be damed if i try to put it in 2nd going around a corner.. will not go in unless i put it in 1st first.. Its like hitting a wall like you said.. any ideas

 

i bled the line and did the drill mod and made sure the clutch wasn't dragging when i put the ls7 clutch in it, but it's just always been like that. it make shifting fast 100x harder when i'm racing and is getting very annoying. i'm pretty sure i backed all the screws in the shifter all the way out so thats not causing it. i've also never had any problem with the pedal sticking. is it normal for these transmitions to be so much more notchy and stiff than other cars?

 

1->2 shifts cause a large rpm drop/change between gears, so any synchro wear will show up at high rpms. Either lower your 1>2 shift RPMS, double-clutch 1-2, or save/plan for a rebuild.

 

if it was the synchros, wouldn't it grind instead of just being hard to get into gear?

 

The Blocker ring serves to synchronize the speed of input and output, and also block the shift until such synchronization is achieved. If you tried to over-power the blocker, or continue wearing it down, you'll start getting the grinding.

The other items mentioned are more probable, but you've said they have all been checked.

 

ok, i guess i'll check through it once more and if i cant find anything, it must be in the trans like you said. thanks

 

I had same exact problem you are explaining 2 weeks ago,and mine started when I changed crank pulley to underdrive asp.....I put stock back on and shifting was smooth again...I know thats sounds odd but its true....

 

i'm starting to wonder if maybe the master cylinder may be the problem. it's a ram adjustable master that i installed last summer with the cluch. if it was bad, would the pedal necessarily have to be sticking? the pedal hasn't given me any problems. if it is the master, i need to hurry up and jump on the tick performance group buy, but i don't want to drop the money if thats not the problem.