HAHA, Stealership wants $510 just for labor to install slave!
02-28-2009, 01:27 PM
#21
I didn't read the whole thread but $510 doesn't seem like a horrible price for a dealer to install a slave cylinder. Would I pay that much? No. But then again I would be the one at the dealer doing the work haha. Drain the trans, disconnect the hydraulic line, remove the ds, remove the trans, remove the slave, install the slave, install the trans, re-install the hydraulic line, fill the trans and bleed the system.
i was quoted $350 to install a new clutch in my car (labor only).. this was after i just got done putting a clutch in ad having it slip, i said to myself there is no way im going to do that again 2 weeks after i just finished it
but yeah, you have to take the bellhousing off with the transmission.. i figured that out after trying to pull the tranny out for 10min and it wasnt budging
other than that, its pretty simple.. although the transmission isnt gonna come out as easy as that little drawing slows, you are gonna have to wiggle it around the a while
02-28-2009, 02:11 PM
#22
I didn't read the whole thread but $510 doesn't seem like a horrible price for a dealer to install a slave cylinder. Would I pay that much? No. But then again I would be the one at the dealer doing the work haha. Drain the trans, disconnect the hydraulic line, remove the ds, remove the trans, remove the slave, install the slave, install the trans, re-install the hydraulic line, fill the trans and bleed the system.
02-28-2009, 06:18 PM
#23
are you kidding?
i was quoted $350 to install a new clutch in my car (labor only).. this was after i just got done putting a clutch in ad having it slip, i said to myself there is no way im going to do that again 2 weeks after i just finished it
but yeah, you have to take the bellhousing off with the transmission.. i figured that out after trying to pull the tranny out for 10min and it wasnt budging
other than that, its pretty simple.. although the transmission isnt gonna come out as easy as that little drawing slows, you are gonna have to wiggle it around the a while
i was quoted $350 to install a new clutch in my car (labor only).. this was after i just got done putting a clutch in ad having it slip, i said to myself there is no way im going to do that again 2 weeks after i just finished it
but yeah, you have to take the bellhousing off with the transmission.. i figured that out after trying to pull the tranny out for 10min and it wasnt budging
other than that, its pretty simple.. although the transmission isnt gonna come out as easy as that little drawing slows, you are gonna have to wiggle it around the a while
02-28-2009, 06:41 PM
#24
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are you kidding?
i was quoted $350 to install a new clutch in my car (labor only).. this was after i just got done putting a clutch in ad having it slip, i said to myself there is no way im going to do that again 2 weeks after i just finished it
but yeah, you have to take the bellhousing off with the transmission.. i figured that out after trying to pull the tranny out for 10min and it wasnt budging
other than that, its pretty simple.. although the transmission isnt gonna come out as easy as that little drawing slows, you are gonna have to wiggle it around the a while
i was quoted $350 to install a new clutch in my car (labor only).. this was after i just got done putting a clutch in ad having it slip, i said to myself there is no way im going to do that again 2 weeks after i just finished it
but yeah, you have to take the bellhousing off with the transmission.. i figured that out after trying to pull the tranny out for 10min and it wasnt budging
other than that, its pretty simple.. although the transmission isnt gonna come out as easy as that little drawing slows, you are gonna have to wiggle it around the a while
03-01-2009, 07:24 PM
#27
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I dont see why everyone is making such a big deal about it. I have pulled my trans a couple of times by myself in the dirt with the car on jackstands and using just a regular floor jack for the tranny. lining it back up when putting it back in is a little bit of a pita but nothing major. Just requires a bit of muscle and what you lack in muscle just use your brain (pry bar, ect...). And a little piece of mind im only 115 pounds and can barley bench anything...
03-01-2009, 08:40 PM
#28
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I dont see why everyone is making such a big deal about it. I have pulled my trans a couple of times by myself in the dirt with the car on jackstands and using just a regular floor jack for the tranny. lining it back up when putting it back in is a little bit of a pita but nothing major. Just requires a bit of muscle and what you lack in muscle just use your brain (pry bar, ect...). And a little piece of mind im only 115 pounds and can barley bench anything...
.
03-06-2009, 11:27 AM
#29
I thought I would let you guys know. I'm doing my trans at work and one of the service writers came over to talk about my car. I asked him if he could find out how much it pays. The book calls for 6.6 to R&R the trans and he would charge $125 an hour, so $825. So like I stated from the beginning, for a dealer $510 doesn't seem insane to me. Would I ever pay that much, no but that's not my point.
03-09-2009, 12:35 AM
#34
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ehh... stealership always charges more than anyone... i think it is a little bit high... i took my 96 Z in onetime for mis fire (before I knew **** about the car) it was a burnt spark plug wire, so they replaced all spark plug wires... almost $600 
said it took them 5.5 hours to get it done'... i can say that "I Got Raped"
said it took them 5.5 hours to get it done'... i can say that "I Got Raped"
03-09-2009, 12:33 PM
#35
ehh... stealership always charges more than anyone... i think it is a little bit high... i took my 96 Z in onetime for mis fire (before I knew **** about the car) it was a burnt spark plug wire, so they replaced all spark plug wires... almost $600 said it took them 5.5 hours to get it done'... i can say that "I Got Raped"
said it took them 5.5 hours to get it done'... i can say that "I Got Raped" it was like $120! 
03-09-2009, 04:02 PM
#38
510 is a fair price, not a super bargain but they're either doing less than book time or have a nice hourly rate.
What kind of warranty do they offer?
GM or aftermarket parts?
What certifications do they have?
How long will this take you?
How long will your car be down?
Can you afford to be down?
What is your time really worth? (Divide your salary/wage by hours worked)
Do you have the proper tools?
Do you have the tools to do this in a reasonable amount of time?
Do you clean up in compliance with EPA and other enviro-*****?
Do you enjoy this stuff?
What happens if something goes wrong?
What if you get hurt?
Insurance/warranty?
Guess what, if something goes wrong, you're fixing it again, or maybe fixing something that wasn't broken before.
Don't fall into the absolutely moronic "stealership" mindset.
Getting a shop to do the work makes sense for most people at some point. A dealership is just another shop, some are good, some suck. The benefit is, they probably work on more Chevys than private shops. The bad is many try to take advantage of that specialty. Fact is, MANY shops out there will bone you in a heartbeat. Learn what all is really involved and take the time to pick a competent one that will stand behind their work. Most importantly, find one you can trust. That is key, no matter whose name is on the sign. Fact also is, you won't know for sure until you spend some time and money finding out.
Good luck whichever way you go.
What kind of warranty do they offer?
GM or aftermarket parts?
What certifications do they have?
How long will this take you?
How long will your car be down?
Can you afford to be down?
What is your time really worth? (Divide your salary/wage by hours worked)
Do you have the proper tools?
Do you have the tools to do this in a reasonable amount of time?
Do you clean up in compliance with EPA and other enviro-*****?
Do you enjoy this stuff?
What happens if something goes wrong?
What if you get hurt?
Insurance/warranty?
Guess what, if something goes wrong, you're fixing it again, or maybe fixing something that wasn't broken before.
Don't fall into the absolutely moronic "stealership" mindset.
Getting a shop to do the work makes sense for most people at some point. A dealership is just another shop, some are good, some suck. The benefit is, they probably work on more Chevys than private shops. The bad is many try to take advantage of that specialty. Fact is, MANY shops out there will bone you in a heartbeat. Learn what all is really involved and take the time to pick a competent one that will stand behind their work. Most importantly, find one you can trust. That is key, no matter whose name is on the sign. Fact also is, you won't know for sure until you spend some time and money finding out.
Good luck whichever way you go.
03-09-2009, 05:29 PM
#39
510 is a fair price, not a super bargain but they're either doing less than book time or have a nice hourly rate.
What kind of warranty do they offer?
GM or aftermarket parts?
What certifications do they have?
How long will this take you?
How long will your car be down?
Can you afford to be down?
What is your time really worth? (Divide your salary/wage by hours worked)
Do you have the proper tools?
Do you have the tools to do this in a reasonable amount of time?
Do you clean up in compliance with EPA and other enviro-*****?
Do you enjoy this stuff?
What happens if something goes wrong?
What if you get hurt?
Insurance/warranty?
Guess what, if something goes wrong, you're fixing it again, or maybe fixing something that wasn't broken before.
Don't fall into the absolutely moronic "stealership" mindset.
Getting a shop to do the work makes sense for most people at some point. A dealership is just another shop, some are good, some suck. The benefit is, they probably work on more Chevys than private shops. The bad is many try to take advantage of that specialty. Fact is, MANY shops out there will bone you in a heartbeat. Learn what all is really involved and take the time to pick a competent one that will stand behind their work. Most importantly, find one you can trust. That is key, no matter whose name is on the sign. Fact also is, you won't know for sure until you spend some time and money finding out.
Good luck whichever way you go.
What kind of warranty do they offer?
GM or aftermarket parts?
What certifications do they have?
How long will this take you?
How long will your car be down?
Can you afford to be down?
What is your time really worth? (Divide your salary/wage by hours worked)
Do you have the proper tools?
Do you have the tools to do this in a reasonable amount of time?
Do you clean up in compliance with EPA and other enviro-*****?
Do you enjoy this stuff?
What happens if something goes wrong?
What if you get hurt?
Insurance/warranty?
Guess what, if something goes wrong, you're fixing it again, or maybe fixing something that wasn't broken before.
Don't fall into the absolutely moronic "stealership" mindset.
Getting a shop to do the work makes sense for most people at some point. A dealership is just another shop, some are good, some suck. The benefit is, they probably work on more Chevys than private shops. The bad is many try to take advantage of that specialty. Fact is, MANY shops out there will bone you in a heartbeat. Learn what all is really involved and take the time to pick a competent one that will stand behind their work. Most importantly, find one you can trust. That is key, no matter whose name is on the sign. Fact also is, you won't know for sure until you spend some time and money finding out.
Good luck whichever way you go.
