Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

Parts to replace during rebuild?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-30-2009, 12:54 PM
  #1  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Aetos's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 473
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default Parts to replace during rebuild?

I'm gonna probably have my transmission rebuilt locally to fix the grinding into 4th when shifting into quickly and difficulty to get into reverse.

I'm planning on buying the tickshift level 2 performance package which includes:
* Bronze 1-2 Fork Pads
* Bronze 3-4 Fork Pads
* OEM 5-6 Fork Pads
* OEM Reverse Fork Pads
* Billet 3-4 Synchronizer Keys (with upgraded springs)
* Carbon Fiber Synchronizer (blocker) Rings
* Steel 3-4 Shift Fork
* New 1-2 Synchronizer Assembly
* New 3-4 Synchronizer Assembly
* New Front Seal
* New Rear Seal


Are there any other parts which I should consider adding/changing/removing from this list?

I really don't have any serious problems other than my tranny grinding when shifting into 4th quickly and difficulty going into reverse(goes past the lockout gate). Once in gear, the transmission works perfectly fine.

Any input?

Thanks!


I know I can't be positive of what parts need to be replaced unless the transmission is disassembled, but I need to have the least downtime as possible and wish to have all parts ready in the transmission guys hand. So, I'm asking for commonly damaged parts/parts to make my transmission sturdier.
Old 03-30-2009, 01:24 PM
  #2  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (9)
 
85MikeTPI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Newark, DE
Posts: 2,172
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Aetos
I'm planning on buying the tickshift level 2 performance package which includes:
* Bronze 1-2 Fork Pads
* Bronze 3-4 Fork Pads
* OEM 5-6 Fork Pads
* OEM Reverse Fork Pads
* Billet 3-4 Synchronizer Keys (with upgraded springs)
* Carbon Fiber Synchronizer (blocker) Rings
* Steel 3-4 Shift Fork
* New 1-2 Synchronizer Assembly
* New 3-4 Synchronizer Assembly
* New Front Seal
* New Rear Seal
That's the tough part about "kits", you usually get more or less what you need. Personally, I put bronze pads on all four forks, and billet keys on all but Reverse.. The New Synchronizers are nice, but if you don't need them, that's $100+ a pop.
Old 03-31-2009, 10:57 AM
  #3  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Aetos's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 473
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Thanks for the input, but I think the syncronizers are worth the money just to have new ones in the transmission. Can't be positive on the condition of the stock ones or how the previous owner treated the transmission, so i think its safer just to change them now.


Anymore input?
Old 03-31-2009, 11:34 AM
  #4  
jmd
TECH Addict
iTrader: (4)
 
jmd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: T56th Street, Aridzona
Posts: 2,569
Received 27 Likes on 25 Posts

Default

You need to see how worn the synchro slider teeth (and gear teeth,) then you'll know if you need to replace. You may need all 3 forward ones, you may need none. (I've never worked on a "none" but I will cross my fingers for you. )

Reverse synchro is reversible so if it's hurt on one side and the other side is unworn, you'll be fine.
Old 03-31-2009, 11:39 AM
  #5  
Banned
iTrader: (60)
 
thesource's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Adkins - Tx
Posts: 2,693
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I rarely replace the slider assemblies .
Old 04-11-2009, 02:06 PM
  #6  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Aetos's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 473
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by thesource
I rarely replace the slider assemblies .
Okay, just found out I'm getting a 1.8k tax refund soon so I think I'll be doing the rebuild sometime soon...

More detailed explanation of my problem:

Anytime I try to shift fast and hard into either 3rd or 4th gear it will grind for a bit then go into gear, once into gear, the car runs perfect. The higher up in the rpm band I am and the more I'm pushing the car the more the grind will sound. If I shift very slowly then the grind is not present, but the shifter feel is not smooth as with other gears. I've already replaced all my hydraulics with tick and new GM slave with ls7 clutch kit, but the problem still persists in 3rd and 4th, more so in 4th gear. It is also hard to go into reverse(into the actual gear, not to move the shifter all the way to the right). My main problem is either the syncros or 3/4 shift fork?

What parts would you people suggest to fix this problem and beef up the transmission in general? I'm gonna most likely just go with the Tick level 2 performance package.
Old 04-11-2009, 02:31 PM
  #7  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (9)
 
85MikeTPI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Newark, DE
Posts: 2,172
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

It sounds like the new blocker rings will cure your problems. As for the parts, I defer back to post #2... That covers the aftermarket/upgrade parts.. As for stock parts, you won't know what to replace until it's apart. (post #4)
Old 04-12-2009, 06:58 AM
  #8  
11 Second Club
iTrader: (18)
 
Justins00ss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Eastern Ma/ PSL florida
Posts: 845
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by 85MikeTPI
It sounds like the new blocker rings will cure your problems. As for the parts, I defer back to post #2... That covers the aftermarket/upgrade parts.. As for stock parts, you won't know what to replace until it's apart. (post #4)
Yeah thats what Iam thinking too. My tranny is doing somthing similar in 2nd. Drives great but when I go to hammer 2nd it grinds going in a little. My guy said that the blocker ring is most likely the issue.

I was looking at the same level 2 rebuild from Tick. Its eaither that or I swap in a Auto. LOL
Old 04-12-2009, 09:11 AM
  #9  
FormerVendor
iTrader: (38)
 
Gen414's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Pearland, TX
Posts: 2,309
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Well, really the only other thing to consider would be the bearings. Most of the time they are good to go. But, you may have 200K miles on that tranny, I don't know, and if that was teh case, I would problay go ahead and get a bearing kit while you have teh tranny exploded. But if that is not the case, just make sure you check them when you get it apart.


Edit:

Oh yeah, not part of teh tranny, but make sure you check that pilot bearing with the tranny out.
Old 04-12-2009, 09:54 AM
  #10  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Aetos's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 473
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Gen414
Well, really the only other thing to consider would be the bearings. Most of the time they are good to go. But, you may have 200K miles on that tranny, I don't know, and if that was teh case, I would problay go ahead and get a bearing kit while you have teh tranny exploded. But if that is not the case, just make sure you check them when you get it apart.


Edit:

Oh yeah, not part of teh tranny, but make sure you check that pilot bearing with the tranny out.
Pilot bearing was switched when I did my clutch, and I'm pretty sure its the original transmission with the car, although I can't be absolutely certain, but I would hope so. The car seems to have relatively well cared for by the previous owner.
Old 04-14-2009, 09:21 AM
  #11  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (41)
 
Bad Blue WS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germantown Hills IL
Posts: 2,003
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

mine does the same thing as yours, but i was told my syncros were bad, guess i'll find out. I understand that the snap rings shouldnt be reused (i noticed in the manual that only "some" of the snap rings say not to reuse, some dont) but the ring kit is only 20 bux, id opt for a new bronze shifter cup as well. its about 25 bux



Quick Reply: Parts to replace during rebuild?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:59 AM.