Parts to replace during rebuild?
#1
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I'm gonna probably have my transmission rebuilt locally to fix the grinding into 4th when shifting into quickly and difficulty to get into reverse.
I'm planning on buying the tickshift level 2 performance package which includes:
* Bronze 1-2 Fork Pads
* Bronze 3-4 Fork Pads
* OEM 5-6 Fork Pads
* OEM Reverse Fork Pads
* Billet 3-4 Synchronizer Keys (with upgraded springs)
* Carbon Fiber Synchronizer (blocker) Rings
* Steel 3-4 Shift Fork
* New 1-2 Synchronizer Assembly
* New 3-4 Synchronizer Assembly
* New Front Seal
* New Rear Seal
Are there any other parts which I should consider adding/changing/removing from this list?
I really don't have any serious problems other than my tranny grinding when shifting into 4th quickly and difficulty going into reverse(goes past the lockout gate). Once in gear, the transmission works perfectly fine.
Any input?
Thanks!
I know I can't be positive of what parts need to be replaced unless the transmission is disassembled, but I need to have the least downtime as possible and wish to have all parts ready in the transmission guys hand. So, I'm asking for commonly damaged parts/parts to make my transmission sturdier.
I'm planning on buying the tickshift level 2 performance package which includes:
* Bronze 1-2 Fork Pads
* Bronze 3-4 Fork Pads
* OEM 5-6 Fork Pads
* OEM Reverse Fork Pads
* Billet 3-4 Synchronizer Keys (with upgraded springs)
* Carbon Fiber Synchronizer (blocker) Rings
* Steel 3-4 Shift Fork
* New 1-2 Synchronizer Assembly
* New 3-4 Synchronizer Assembly
* New Front Seal
* New Rear Seal
Are there any other parts which I should consider adding/changing/removing from this list?
I really don't have any serious problems other than my tranny grinding when shifting into 4th quickly and difficulty going into reverse(goes past the lockout gate). Once in gear, the transmission works perfectly fine.
Any input?
Thanks!
I know I can't be positive of what parts need to be replaced unless the transmission is disassembled, but I need to have the least downtime as possible and wish to have all parts ready in the transmission guys hand. So, I'm asking for commonly damaged parts/parts to make my transmission sturdier.
#2
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I'm planning on buying the tickshift level 2 performance package which includes:
* Bronze 1-2 Fork Pads
* Bronze 3-4 Fork Pads
* OEM 5-6 Fork Pads
* OEM Reverse Fork Pads
* Billet 3-4 Synchronizer Keys (with upgraded springs)
* Carbon Fiber Synchronizer (blocker) Rings
* Steel 3-4 Shift Fork
* New 1-2 Synchronizer Assembly
* New 3-4 Synchronizer Assembly
* New Front Seal
* New Rear Seal
* Bronze 1-2 Fork Pads
* Bronze 3-4 Fork Pads
* OEM 5-6 Fork Pads
* OEM Reverse Fork Pads
* Billet 3-4 Synchronizer Keys (with upgraded springs)
* Carbon Fiber Synchronizer (blocker) Rings
* Steel 3-4 Shift Fork
* New 1-2 Synchronizer Assembly
* New 3-4 Synchronizer Assembly
* New Front Seal
* New Rear Seal
#3
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Thanks for the input, but I think the syncronizers are worth the money just to have new ones in the transmission. Can't be positive on the condition of the stock ones or how the previous owner treated the transmission, so i think its safer just to change them now.
Anymore input?
Anymore input?
#4
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You need to see how worn the synchro slider teeth (and gear teeth,) then you'll know if you need to replace. You may need all 3 forward ones, you may need none. (I've never worked on a "none" but I will cross my fingers for you.
)
Reverse synchro is reversible so if it's hurt on one side and the other side is unworn, you'll be fine.
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Reverse synchro is reversible so if it's hurt on one side and the other side is unworn, you'll be fine.
#6
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Okay, just found out I'm getting a 1.8k tax refund soon so I think I'll be doing the rebuild sometime soon...
More detailed explanation of my problem:
Anytime I try to shift fast and hard into either 3rd or 4th gear it will grind for a bit then go into gear, once into gear, the car runs perfect. The higher up in the rpm band I am and the more I'm pushing the car the more the grind will sound. If I shift very slowly then the grind is not present, but the shifter feel is not smooth as with other gears. I've already replaced all my hydraulics with tick and new GM slave with ls7 clutch kit, but the problem still persists in 3rd and 4th, more so in 4th gear. It is also hard to go into reverse(into the actual gear, not to move the shifter all the way to the right). My main problem is either the syncros or 3/4 shift fork?
What parts would you people suggest to fix this problem and beef up the transmission in general? I'm gonna most likely just go with the Tick level 2 performance package.
More detailed explanation of my problem:
Anytime I try to shift fast and hard into either 3rd or 4th gear it will grind for a bit then go into gear, once into gear, the car runs perfect. The higher up in the rpm band I am and the more I'm pushing the car the more the grind will sound. If I shift very slowly then the grind is not present, but the shifter feel is not smooth as with other gears. I've already replaced all my hydraulics with tick and new GM slave with ls7 clutch kit, but the problem still persists in 3rd and 4th, more so in 4th gear. It is also hard to go into reverse(into the actual gear, not to move the shifter all the way to the right). My main problem is either the syncros or 3/4 shift fork?
What parts would you people suggest to fix this problem and beef up the transmission in general? I'm gonna most likely just go with the Tick level 2 performance package.
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I was looking at the same level 2 rebuild from Tick. Its eaither that or I swap in a Auto. LOL
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Well, really the only other thing to consider would be the bearings. Most of the time they are good to go. But, you may have 200K miles on that tranny, I don't know, and if that was teh case, I would problay go ahead and get a bearing kit while you have teh tranny exploded. But if that is not the case, just make sure you check them when you get it apart.
Edit:
Oh yeah, not part of teh tranny, but make sure you check that pilot bearing with the tranny out.
Edit:
Oh yeah, not part of teh tranny, but make sure you check that pilot bearing with the tranny out.
#10
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Well, really the only other thing to consider would be the bearings. Most of the time they are good to go. But, you may have 200K miles on that tranny, I don't know, and if that was teh case, I would problay go ahead and get a bearing kit while you have teh tranny exploded. But if that is not the case, just make sure you check them when you get it apart.
Edit:
Oh yeah, not part of teh tranny, but make sure you check that pilot bearing with the tranny out.
Edit:
Oh yeah, not part of teh tranny, but make sure you check that pilot bearing with the tranny out.
#11
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mine does the same thing as yours, but i was told my syncros were bad, guess i'll find out. I understand that the snap rings shouldnt be reused (i noticed in the manual that only "some" of the snap rings say not to reuse, some dont) but the ring kit is only 20 bux, id opt for a new bronze shifter cup as well. its about 25 bux