All new Hydraulics, clutch and still some grinding?
#1
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Ok I just got my motor together not long ago and have been driving it. I installed a completely new ls7 clutch kit from SDPC along with a new slave and a new Tick MC. I bled the sytem like crazy and believe all the air should be out. I've adjusted the MC out a lil ways and yet I still get a bad grind while trying to go into 1st gear? Now if I go to 3rd and then to first kinda quickly it doesn't grind? Whats up with that exactly?
Also when going WOT trying to power shift into 3rd I get some grinding. Everything is all new so do I just need to adjust the MC out some more until if goes away or what? Try bleeding some more although I've bled the hell out of it?
Lets hear some thoughts!
Also when going WOT trying to power shift into 3rd I get some grinding. Everything is all new so do I just need to adjust the MC out some more until if goes away or what? Try bleeding some more although I've bled the hell out of it?
Lets hear some thoughts!
#2
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Ok I just got my motor together not long ago and have been driving it. I installed a completely new ls7 clutch kit from SDPC along with a new slave and a new Tick MC. I bled the sytem like crazy and believe all the air should be out. I've adjusted the MC out a lil ways and yet I still get a bad grind while trying to go into 1st gear? Now if I go to 3rd and then to first kinda quickly it doesn't grind? Whats up with that exactly?
Also when going WOT trying to power shift into 3rd I get some grinding. Everything is all new so do I just need to adjust the MC out some more until if goes away or what? Try bleeding some more although I've bled the hell out of it?
Lets hear some thoughts!
Also when going WOT trying to power shift into 3rd I get some grinding. Everything is all new so do I just need to adjust the MC out some more until if goes away or what? Try bleeding some more although I've bled the hell out of it?
Lets hear some thoughts!
You can try adjusting it all the way out to see if that fixes it and try bleeding more, if that doesn't help than you need a rebuild
#4
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First bench bleed the master by itself, then pressure bleed the entire system using 12 inches of pressure. The internal bearing can have pockets that air gets stuck in. If you don't have force to move the air out of the pockets you'll never bleed the system entirely.
#7
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You don't really need to do the mightvac, just the bench bleed part should work.
http://home.comcast.net/~buschman_00...utchbleed.html
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http://home.comcast.net/~buschman_00...utchbleed.html
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#8
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If your pedal is firm all the way up top, then you probably don't have a bleeding issue. However, if it feels spongy or has a lot of "free play" at the top then bleeding could be the problem. Honestly with our cylinder, it doesn't take much more that a little gravity bleeding to get everything in working order. IMO, it is way easier than any other cylinder available to bleed. You can practically bolt it in the car, fill the resevoir with fluid, and simply press the valve at the end of the line in with a screwdriver or whatever and let fluid drain out for a minute or two. As long as you keep the resevoir full, it will esentially bleed itself.
You could also tell that the master is bleed completely by dissconnecting the line and simply trying to press the pedal. Use your hand, and see if the pedal will press any. If its bleed good, the pedal should be rock solid. Don't use much force if you try this, otherwise you could cause damage to the cylinder.
If the transmission goes into all gears smoothly with the car running and sitting still other than 1st gear it deffinately sounds like you have internal transmission issues. Usually, you wouldn't get a grind unless the blocker ring is damaged or worn out or the keys are broken; even if the clutch is dragging a bit...it simply wouldn't go into gear easily and the car may even try to roll a little (because the clutch wouldn't be dissengaging however the blockers would still do their job and get the car into gear).
It sounds like your clutch is dissengaging however, so that should eliminate the hydraulics/bleeding.
You could also tell that the master is bleed completely by dissconnecting the line and simply trying to press the pedal. Use your hand, and see if the pedal will press any. If its bleed good, the pedal should be rock solid. Don't use much force if you try this, otherwise you could cause damage to the cylinder.
If the transmission goes into all gears smoothly with the car running and sitting still other than 1st gear it deffinately sounds like you have internal transmission issues. Usually, you wouldn't get a grind unless the blocker ring is damaged or worn out or the keys are broken; even if the clutch is dragging a bit...it simply wouldn't go into gear easily and the car may even try to roll a little (because the clutch wouldn't be dissengaging however the blockers would still do their job and get the car into gear).
It sounds like your clutch is dissengaging however, so that should eliminate the hydraulics/bleeding.
#9
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The trans goes into gear easily if I go to 3rd first and then to 1st. Now if I just try to go to first while rolling it is a bad grinding sound. That tells me that something is causing it to not fully dis-engage for some reason?
All I did was bolt everything up and added fluid and bled it. I figured that is what is supposed to be done. I guess I need to adjust the MC out a lil more until this goes away. I will try this mityvac thing to see if I can get any possible air out of the slave, but where do you get this tool at?
All I did was bolt everything up and added fluid and bled it. I figured that is what is supposed to be done. I guess I need to adjust the MC out a lil more until this goes away. I will try this mityvac thing to see if I can get any possible air out of the slave, but where do you get this tool at?