CaliboyTA

iTrader: (2)

sup guys, for the pass couple years i've been having clutch issues with my car for the pass year now. the infamous clutch pedal sticking to the floor. normal street drive, its shifts flawlessly, but when racing, every time i try to shift into third, it feels like im shifting without a clutch and the clutch pedal sticks half way down. i replaced the master, slave, and even put high grade motec dot 4 fluid. still the same. i didn't do the drill mod with my new master, but with my old master cylinder, i had done the drill mod and it still did the same thing. i've come to a conclusion that its possible it could be my ls7 clutch going bad. i just want to know for those who daily drive and do weekend drag races which clutch, clutch hydraulics, clutch master, clutch fluid you guys use. perferably a list like this:

clutch master:
clutch fluid:
clutch:
drill mod - yes or no


so far heres my list of what i have now in my car:
Built m6: billet keys, carbon fiber synchros, steel forks, new 3/4 synchronizer assembly.
clutch master: brand new stock oem
Clutch fluid: motul dot 4 fluid ( freshly bleed)
Clutch: ls7 clutch kit (35k-40k miles on it)
drill mod - no but will do it to see if it will solve the problem.

Art Vandaley

iTrader: (33)

when you shift in higher rpms, does it stick and grind?

CaliboyTA

iTrader: (2)

first-second gear- feels great
second-third gear: redline to 6300 - pedal get stiff and sticks half way down. no grinding
but when i went to second-third gear shifter at 5k rpm, it went into gear but the pedal was stiff.

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

I told Bill at Force fed performance about a problem like this and he said it could be a pressure plate issue.

CaliboyTA

iTrader: (2)

this initial problem happened 2 1/2 yrs ago while the clutch had close to 23k miles on it. Even when i had my car last dynoed (11/17/07) the dyno operator did a 4th gear dyno pull and after the pull it push the clutch in to put it into neutral and he said the pedal felt very stiff and it was stuck on the floor, had to lift the pedal up manually. I asked him if it felt like a clutch problem or hydraulic and he said it feels hydraulic. so i did the initial fix. btw heres the dyno pull. lol 409rwhp 377 rwtq on a mustang dyno with a sticky clutch

3 months ago: replace master cylinder with a new oem master ( no drill mod)
result: felt better then before but pedal will still stick, but instead of staying on the floor board, it will pop up and couple pumps later, it will get full pressure.

one week ago: replace slave with a new oem one ( left the clutch bolted up but inspect the clutch forks to see if they were bent, which they look normal) and installed a remote bleeder.
Result: feels alot more better then before, but the intial problem is still there, but not as bad.

Yesterday: replace dot 3 fluid with motul dot 4 synthetic and bleed the hell out of it. and went to the weds drags.
Result: feels better then before, but the initial problem is still there.

next on my list : drill mod

CaliboyTA

iTrader: (2)

did couple load test on the clutch to see if its slippin.
one was putting it in 6th gear at a low rpm and floor it to see if the rpm revs fast? and it never did that.

second- my neighbor told me that if i put it in second gear with the e-brake on and take off slowly and it will make the car stall, then your clutch is still good. well i put it in second gear with the e-brake on. took off slowly and it stalled.

99TransAmLS16Spd

iTrader: (8)

Your issue sounds very similar to one I had with my stock ls1 clutch - the pressure plate was not disengaging.
I also seem to recall reading that the LS7 clutches have a tendency to act up when they get hot (not unlike most clutches)

jcoker

iTrader: (17)

I'm having the same problem with mine. I have all new hydros, drill mod, and I put heat wrap around the line. It has had a OZ700 in it for about 4k with no problems until now.

I'll be pulling the trans this weekend to see whats up. When I replaced the slave this last time one of the bolts that hold it in stripped out. I got a longer bolt and it felt fine but I think the vibrations from the solid mounts may have caused it to back out. Or my pressure plate is screwed.

SMOKNSS

iTrader: (3)

I have been having the same issue when shifting above 6500. Have the speed bleeder and bled countless bottles of fluid through and all new hydraulics. So Im getting a Tick Master to see if it helps, a local guys got onee and said it was a remedy to his problem. Cant get any worse right? LOL

99TransAmLS16Spd

iTrader: (8)

LOL on the "it cant get any worse"

My attempt to track down the problem went like this and was on going:
1) Change fluid and bleed system
2) Swap master cylinder with an adjustable and perform drill mod
3) Replace the '00-'02 slave cylinder with a new one
4) Upgrade clutch to OZ700
5) Find out that through the course of troubleshooting, the syncros in the tranny are shot.
6) Pull tranny to start RPM level 5 T56 swap and 416 swap
7) Inspected 0Z700 clutch with less than 3K miles on it and one day at the track and find that it is royaly messed up.
8) Dealing with textrailia tech/warrentee taking forever - pulling hair out. Very close to going to an auto! Waiting on textralia to get back to me on my clutch so I can drive the car again...

goin4broke

iTrader: (1)

I have a 2002 LS2 402 with a new LS7 clutch and stock throughout bearing. Mine shifts great when normal driving around town. But when the 7000 RPM shifts come the 1-2 shift is harder but ok and the 2-3 shift the clutch feels like it is "floating" and will not shift. the RPM's come down and it shifts but is sticky. And the clutch then grabs like its not disengaging completely. I know with 515 at the rear wheels I'm pushing the clutch hard I am thinking a new clutch and throwout bearing are in order...?If you find an answer pass it on to mee too

Mikey 97Z M6

iTrader: (37)

I'm having that same problem with the hard clutch pedal, but only at higher rpm's (above 4k). The clutch pedal gets very hard and when it does get to the floor, it doesn't disengage the clutch. I have an LS6 clutch/fly, and brand new slave.

I'm ordering a new clutch this week. All the research I've found is pointing to the pressure plate.

Mike

CaliboyTA

iTrader: (2)

bringing it back from the dead. just an update on the clutch situation. i just ordered the tick master and its coming in on friday. i let u guys know if it solve to problem

badamn

i'm installing an ls7 clutch next week to get rid of getting locked out of gear and spongy pedal.It can't be the hydraulics.It started by locking me out of fourth after about three races and now i can't get into third unless it's my first, pretty much, cold run.I hope it's not the syncros!?how did u find out your syncros were shot?

CaliboyTA

iTrader: (2)

after many many misshifts with third gear, its is finally fighting back. Thirdgear pops out. when i put it in thirdgear and hold my hands on the shifter, i could feel it wanted to pop out. My other problem is that sometimes my shifters feels really stiff. It happened to me twice when i was on the highway when i was 6th trying to go back to 4th. It feels like im shifting without pressing down on the clutch. The stiff shifter is doesn't happen all the times.

99nbmbird650

iTrader: (3)

I have the exact problem shifts like butter cruising or in place but any time I go to really row through a couple gears an like everyone said it does it into second not bad third is pretty bad an fourth is worse. I've replaced my clutch with ls7 an it was fine then about six months later started happening so I changed the master an ported it, same problem. Changed an bled fluid same problem persist so im assuming it's the pressure plate from what I heard or slave.

I just got a new clutch haven't istalled it yet an I will get a slave an just do them at the same time...? So we shall see if that works cause it really is irritating as hell.

blue98Z

iTrader: (29)

This is my setup and it's been running flawlessly for the past 5yrs of street/strip action:

Built T56
Clutch: Spec 3
Master: Stock replacement
Slave: Ram
Drill mod
Dot 4 fluid
Wrapped clutch line
Maintenance: When the fluid turns just a shade darker, I drain the reservoir, and pump new fluid in and bleed it til all the old fluid in the line is out and I don't hear any air. Like I said, this has worked flawlessly for the past 5yrs and still goin strong.

SS4Luck

iTrader: (10)

why would yall replace the master with a new stock unit when they are known to cause issues? iw ould jsut go with a new one off the bat and forget about it.

CALIBOY, your shift fork is fucked up, happens alot in fbody t56s, they fucked us with what they are made out of. Do youself a favor and get it fixed now before you do what i did and take out the whole 3-4 shaft assembly and need a COMPLETE tranny rebuild gears and all

CaliboyTA

iTrader: (2)

I fixed my tranny 4yrs ago. has steel forks,billet keys, carbon fiber sychros. have no problem with the tranny, just hydraulic problem

RsSean

iTrader: (27)

You can get a fire sleeve from autozone, advanced that will slide over the clutch line and protect it from heat. Tick comes with a black sleeve on it I doubled it up with the fire sleeve as well. DET is the company that makes it i think.