Clutch Problems with 7k+rpm shifts. story inside!
#61
those passes were made about half lift shifting(according to my efi live). when i run on the motor i have a LPE 2 step launch controller, and I flat foot shift when not spraying. these were my first nitrous passes at the track ever lol. so I will learn i am sure.
but when in all motor mode, I launch at 6300 shifted 7500 and ran a 11.46 at 121 in the heat....
but when in all motor mode, I launch at 6300 shifted 7500 and ran a 11.46 at 121 in the heat....
#62
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By heat, he means it 94* degrees outside. The DA was WELL into the 5000's. Track's actual altitude is about 1500ft. above, IIRC. So yes, the air was fawking TERRIBLE.
Took my old man's dragster on Alcohol from low 4.80's to high 4.90's.
Must be nice for you dudes who can have a NEGATIVE DA......
Took my old man's dragster on Alcohol from low 4.80's to high 4.90's.
Must be nice for you dudes who can have a NEGATIVE DA......
#63
another update:
took the car to the track agian last night, tried a few different things and turned off the 2 step and these were passes made on motor, NO NITROUS.
launched off the 8k rev limit, car went 11.15 at 122, 11.13 at 123 and a 11.10 at 124 still spinning some with around 1.600 60 foot times and DA was around 4500 at one point last night..
I am super damn happy, car weighed in at 3690 with me sitting in it last night also.
took the car to the track agian last night, tried a few different things and turned off the 2 step and these were passes made on motor, NO NITROUS.
launched off the 8k rev limit, car went 11.15 at 122, 11.13 at 123 and a 11.10 at 124 still spinning some with around 1.600 60 foot times and DA was around 4500 at one point last night..
I am super damn happy, car weighed in at 3690 with me sitting in it last night also.
#67
I love the clutch setup I have in there, its badass! last time at the track I launched 8k and flat foot shifting 7500+ with ZERO issues. ohh and the trans stopped sticking in 4th for some reason?
anyways, I couldn't be more happy with it... its hard to get a stock bottom to go this fast around here with this kind of weight.
anyways, I couldn't be more happy with it... its hard to get a stock bottom to go this fast around here with this kind of weight.
#68
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So I've got a question. I've got a fairly new McLeod single disk clutch that I've had since it was new, same slave cylinder, new adjustable master, bled manually and with a mighty vac with good pressure results, new everything, wrapped my clutch line in exhaust shield tape, wrapped closest header primary in header wrap, I've done everything and my pedal still goes soft when I floor it in one gear, then really goes when I shift. Anyone have any ideas before I just switch to an auto? Is my pressure plate maybe done for?
#69
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I've done everything and my pedal still goes soft when I floor it in one gear, then really goes when I shift. Anyone have any ideas before I just switch to an auto? Is my pressure plate maybe done for?
My LS7 clutch hangs up too so its not nec the clutch used as the hydraulics are always a constant in these things regardless, and I'm still wondering if thats not the source of all these woes?
Curious BES Stroked Nova is the pedal pressure much lighter with the centerforce plate vs the Monster pieces? Can you perhaps give us a pedal feel breakdown for all of the ones you tried? I'm wondering if the high clamp pressure is part of the problem overwhelming the hydraulics somehow? Reaching here...
#70
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So I've got a question. I've got a fairly new McLeod single disk clutch that I've had since it was new, same slave cylinder, new adjustable master, bled manually and with a mighty vac with good pressure results, new everything, wrapped my clutch line in exhaust shield tape, wrapped closest header primary in header wrap, I've done everything and my pedal still goes soft when I floor it in one gear, then really goes when I shift. Anyone have any ideas before I just switch to an auto? Is my pressure plate maybe done for?
#71
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I have a newly rebuit McLeod master. It's my third one to have rebuilt. McLeods customer service has been very good to me, but as you can see I still have the same issues over the years no matter what. I've tried the Centerforce, McLeod iron, and McLeod single clutch, all new hydraulics several times, bled different ways, different master cylinder adjustments, all with the same results. Maybe there's just too much heat for the hydraulics to work??
Guess I'll start preparing for an auto swap...
Guess I'll start preparing for an auto swap...
#72
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I have a newly rebuit McLeod master. It's my third one to have rebuilt. McLeods customer service has been very good to me, but as you can see I still have the same issues over the years no matter what. I've tried the Centerforce, McLeod iron, and McLeod single clutch, all new hydraulics several times, bled different ways, different master cylinder adjustments, all with the same results. Maybe there's just too much heat for the hydraulics to work??
Guess I'll start preparing for an auto swap...
Guess I'll start preparing for an auto swap...
#73
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Are these Diaphragm PP you are working with?
If so, it is a well known fact that a Diaphragm PP can go "over center" and at high RPM they stay there, untill RPM is lowered.
And yes if the CF plate has the weights on the levers/fingers thats why it's working for you.
But IMHO, I would NOT use any of the above mentioned clutch combos in a drag race application.
A good drag race clutch will be a LONG STYLE PP with adjustable base pressure and adjustable centrifugal counter weight.
Some clutch basics here... http://www.competitionplus.com/03_25...tch_univ2.html
---Bill.
If so, it is a well known fact that a Diaphragm PP can go "over center" and at high RPM they stay there, untill RPM is lowered.
And yes if the CF plate has the weights on the levers/fingers thats why it's working for you.
But IMHO, I would NOT use any of the above mentioned clutch combos in a drag race application.
A good drag race clutch will be a LONG STYLE PP with adjustable base pressure and adjustable centrifugal counter weight.
Some clutch basics here... http://www.competitionplus.com/03_25...tch_univ2.html
---Bill.
#74
as far as pedal effort, the stage 6 monster had a heavy pedal and worked great for a few higher rpm shifts(like 7300) but then stuck to the floor one time and pedal went soft.
Monster stage 6.5, same pedal effort, but very easy to drive! and did the same thing as the level 6.
Monster 11" unit, again good pedal effort till it stuck to the floor, then went soft.
NOW this centerforce has prolly the most pedal effort, and has worked perfect time and time again. last time at the track I was launching at 8k and flat foot shifting upwards of 7700.... and people told me it couldn't be done. ha
I am still very pleased with my setup I have in there now.
Monster stage 6.5, same pedal effort, but very easy to drive! and did the same thing as the level 6.
Monster 11" unit, again good pedal effort till it stuck to the floor, then went soft.
NOW this centerforce has prolly the most pedal effort, and has worked perfect time and time again. last time at the track I was launching at 8k and flat foot shifting upwards of 7700.... and people told me it couldn't be done. ha
I am still very pleased with my setup I have in there now.
#75
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On the spray you should be high 9's , with a high 1.3x 60'.
So when you are ready to take 4/10ths+ off your ET, look at an adjustable clutch.
BTW an adjustable PP with a sintered iron disc(s) does NOT require driving around on the street to break it in.
---Bill.
#77
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124 mph pass should net a 10.65 et, with a high 1.4x 60'.
On the spray you should be high 9's , with a high 1.3x 60'.
So when you are ready to take 4/10ths+ off your ET, look at an adjustable clutch.
BTW an adjustable PP with a sintered iron disc(s) does NOT require driving around on the street to break it in.
---Bill.
On the spray you should be high 9's , with a high 1.3x 60'.
So when you are ready to take 4/10ths+ off your ET, look at an adjustable clutch.
BTW an adjustable PP with a sintered iron disc(s) does NOT require driving around on the street to break it in.
---Bill.
I am assuming you are refering to something like a McLoed Soft-Loc clutch when you say "adjustable"? That makes driving on the street very dificult because the clutch si slipping untill you come up to RPM, it would kill friction plates left and right.
124 giving a 10.6? not sure about that. 124 should be a 10.9 at best. THis is a stick car, not an auto. if 124 gives you a 10.65 with a 1.4 60' then my 132mph with a 1.43 60 should give me a 9 second pass... but it does not.
I think the OP has come upon something great here. He has done a TON of work to make his car run. Tons of props to him.
Question for the OP, why are you spinning a stock bottom end that high? Are you really flowing air at that RPM? Just curious. I shift at 7000 and run 10.32@132. Not sure there is an advantage to going to 8K..
#79
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I've not had any slip issues with my Advanced adjustable when properly adjusted (read more base pressure) for street driving.
I agree an adjustable clutch is not for every combo, but I'm looking at what Charlie wrote in his 1st post, see the quote below.
But a 132.3 mph, it could be in the high 9s
HTH ---Bill.
#80
a couple of things;
I am assuming you are refering to something like a McLoed Soft-Loc clutch when you say "adjustable"? That makes driving on the street very dificult because the clutch si slipping untill you come up to RPM, it would kill friction plates left and right.
124 giving a 10.6? not sure about that. 124 should be a 10.9 at best. THis is a stick car, not an auto. if 124 gives you a 10.65 with a 1.4 60' then my 132mph with a 1.43 60 should give me a 9 second pass... but it does not.
I think the OP has come upon something great here. He has done a TON of work to make his car run. Tons of props to him.
Question for the OP, why are you spinning a stock bottom end that high? Are you really flowing air at that RPM? Just curious. I shift at 7000 and run 10.32@132. Not sure there is an advantage to going to 8K..
I am assuming you are refering to something like a McLoed Soft-Loc clutch when you say "adjustable"? That makes driving on the street very dificult because the clutch si slipping untill you come up to RPM, it would kill friction plates left and right.
124 giving a 10.6? not sure about that. 124 should be a 10.9 at best. THis is a stick car, not an auto. if 124 gives you a 10.65 with a 1.4 60' then my 132mph with a 1.43 60 should give me a 9 second pass... but it does not.
I think the OP has come upon something great here. He has done a TON of work to make his car run. Tons of props to him.
Question for the OP, why are you spinning a stock bottom end that high? Are you really flowing air at that RPM? Just curious. I shift at 7000 and run 10.32@132. Not sure there is an advantage to going to 8K..
Well, If i brought my car down to where you race, I bet it would run a hell of a lot faster than it does up here... maybe or maybe not? but I went to memphis last year and picked up 2-3 tenths from running up here...
anyways the setup is a 6.0L bottom, L92 heads mild port job, 242 246 custom cam, GMPP L92 intake unported. it peaked power at 7300 and didn't fall off till 7800. Made almost 600 on the engine dyno... but my car weighs 3690 raceweight. and I need more gear. I have 4.30's and only go through at 6700 in forth... but on the spray it should work out well.
For now I am happy for what it runs, and I want to spray it and see what it does. car get driven on the street still too.