Better off buying a built T-56 or rebuilding mine?
#1
Better off buying a built T-56 or rebuilding mine?
I went to the track yesterday for the first time in about 5 months and ended up breaking something in my tranny (T-56). I got up to the line good second gear burnout, lauched at around 3500 rpm's and could not shift into 2 gear at about 5800 rpm's. The car finally shifted into 2nd then third, but when I stopped at the shack to get my time slip (not that it mattered) I could not get it out of 3rd gear. I had to turn the car off play with the shifter and put it 1st gear with the car off so I could get going. (I could not get it in gear while the car was on). Once back at the pits, I could not get it out of gear unless I turned the car off. I knew this day would come, so let me know what the problem might be and if it's more cost effective to just buy a new tranny or rebuild mine. Any help is greatly appreciated..
#3
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (30)
I had a similar thing happen to me at the track after the burnout box. The clutch was fried with metal from the flywheel on the disc and the flywheel looked like the sierra mountains. The only way you can check though is pull the tranny. Did it smell at all when it happened? I found a local shop to build mine for $400 labor and I bought $1000 in parts for a full build. Everyone else wanted $2000+ for a similar build
#4
I had a similar thing happen to me at the track after the burnout box. The clutch was fried with metal from the flywheel on the disc and the flywheel looked like the sierra mountains. The only way you can check though is pull the tranny. Did it smell at all when it happened? I found a local shop to build mine for $400 labor and I bought $1000 in parts for a full build. Everyone else wanted $2000+ for a similar build
No, it did'nt smell burnt at the time.
#6
#8
TECH Addict
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 2,170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I agree, start checking the cheaper stuff first. Bleed the hydraulics and make sure there are no bubbles. If the problem persists, move onto other things (master cylinder, slave cylinder, etc.). As long as you don't hear any weird noises from the tranny, you should be ok there. You could also drain the fluid to see if you have any pieces of debris in the oil change.
Oh yeah, if it does end up being air in the hydraulics, be sure to wrap your hydrualic line running from the MC to the slave cylinder with some 3/8" heater hose so the exhaust won't break down the fluid prematurely.
Oh yeah, if it does end up being air in the hydraulics, be sure to wrap your hydrualic line running from the MC to the slave cylinder with some 3/8" heater hose so the exhaust won't break down the fluid prematurely.
#9
UPDATE: I went out and did a couple high revving runs yesterday; only to find out that I was still having trouble going into seocond. I'm going to try and bleed the system like some of you guys suggested to see if that helps. I'm assuming that the mini vac would be the best way for this right? Thanks again..
#10
UPDATE: I went out and did a couple high revving runs yesterday; only to find out that I was still having trouble going into seocond. I'm going to try and bleed the system like some of you guys suggested to see if that helps. I'm assuming that the mini vac would be the best way for this right? Thanks again..
#11
FormerVendor
iTrader: (38)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Pearland, TX
Posts: 2,309
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bleed it properly, and should be OK (not to mention get that old fluid out)
If tranny shifts FINE when car is OFF, then problay hydraulic issue.
If it shifts like crap when car is OFF, then tranny issue.
No need for Mityvac.
Here is how it is done, and will be 100% correct when done like this:
2 people
car on jackstands
top off reservoir
person under car
person IN car
Person in car, apply pressure to pedal, but do NOT PUMP OR PUSH TO FLOOR.
Person under car, open bleeder
person in car, SLOWLY push pedal to floor. Right before it gets to floor...yell...CLOSE IT!
Person under car, closes bleeder.
Person in car, release pedal.
Repeat.
After 3-4 times of this, CHECK RESERVOIR, as it will empty quickly!
Do this until you have a nice firm pedal, no air in system.
First time doing this, will take you 15-30 minutes, but WILL be done RIGHT!
If tranny shifts FINE when car is OFF, then problay hydraulic issue.
If it shifts like crap when car is OFF, then tranny issue.
No need for Mityvac.
Here is how it is done, and will be 100% correct when done like this:
2 people
car on jackstands
top off reservoir
person under car
person IN car
Person in car, apply pressure to pedal, but do NOT PUMP OR PUSH TO FLOOR.
Person under car, open bleeder
person in car, SLOWLY push pedal to floor. Right before it gets to floor...yell...CLOSE IT!
Person under car, closes bleeder.
Person in car, release pedal.
Repeat.
After 3-4 times of this, CHECK RESERVOIR, as it will empty quickly!
Do this until you have a nice firm pedal, no air in system.
First time doing this, will take you 15-30 minutes, but WILL be done RIGHT!
#14
No the Fluid dosn't need to be changed that much, it's not a bad thing but not needed.
If you have issues getting the last of the air out of the lines try what I did. open the bleeder, have the person in the car push the clutch pedal to the floor fast(this will shoot fluid out very fast) then close the bleeder, top up the reservoir after two bleeds or it's gonna go dry. I have had to do this every time(different slaves, masters, with or without remote bleeder), bleeding it slow just wasnt working on my car.
If you have issues getting the last of the air out of the lines try what I did. open the bleeder, have the person in the car push the clutch pedal to the floor fast(this will shoot fluid out very fast) then close the bleeder, top up the reservoir after two bleeds or it's gonna go dry. I have had to do this every time(different slaves, masters, with or without remote bleeder), bleeding it slow just wasnt working on my car.
#15
FormerVendor
iTrader: (38)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Pearland, TX
Posts: 2,309
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, all depends on what you think is "notchy". Customer brings car to my shop the other day, says he can't get it into 1st or reverse without alot of work.
So, I hop in, and yeah, it falls right into gear for me. I do it problay 20 times to show him I am not crazy. And he shakes his head. He goes, isn't it "notchy" though? I am like, no.
So, is yours notchy? All in the person handling it. But, if you are having a hard time getting it into gear, with car off, then you might wnt to have it looked at...