PICTURES of measuring for shim, and bench testing setups, good tech....
#42
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humm seemms like a great write up, thank you very much. i know i havent installed a clutch yet but would like to know, would a LS7 clutch need a shim? i know some throwout bearings have a different measure but just by experience do u guys use a shim for that clutch install?
#44
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Very nice writeup, but i wanted to throw this out there again - the seal in the slave floats. The floating seal is what allows for the factory to take into account variances in production quality, etc. By my math you could have about a 0.5 inch gap - and not be in danger of over extending the slave, and not need a shim to reduce the gap.
The volume of fluid pumped by the master divided by the area the fluid acts upon the slave equals the slaves movement.
The volume of fluid pumped by the master divided by the area the fluid acts upon the slave equals the slaves movement.
I still don't understand why a shim is needed in most of these cases. I can understand the measuring, etc. but since the seal in the slave floats and the stroke of the pedal is such that you should not be over extending the slave even if the gap is up to 0.4in or possibly more.
Why is a shim needed?
from another post i made -
I spoke with a person at 2 different clutch related companies, only to have them stumped when i got to specifics.
Why is a shim needed?
from another post i made -
OEM Master (3/4 in) - Un-installed, full stroke
Stroke 1.06 in *un-installed full range of travel
O.D. 0.75 in
Wet area 0.44 in2
Volume 0.47 in3
OEM Master (3/4 in) - installed stroke (doesn't bottom out in my car)
Stroke 0.75 in
O.D. 0.75 in
Wet area 0.44 in2
Volume 0.33 in3
OEM Slave
Range 0.96 in
O.D 1.86 in
I.D. 1.43 in
Wet area 1.11 in2
Volume 1.07 in3
Factory Master / Slave ratio 3.2 (3 strokes in car to fully move slave through travel.
So, why would a shim be needed?
Stroke 1.06 in *un-installed full range of travel
O.D. 0.75 in
Wet area 0.44 in2
Volume 0.47 in3
OEM Master (3/4 in) - installed stroke (doesn't bottom out in my car)
Stroke 0.75 in
O.D. 0.75 in
Wet area 0.44 in2
Volume 0.33 in3
OEM Slave
Range 0.96 in
O.D 1.86 in
I.D. 1.43 in
Wet area 1.11 in2
Volume 1.07 in3
Factory Master / Slave ratio 3.2 (3 strokes in car to fully move slave through travel.
So, why would a shim be needed?
#46
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humm seemms like a great write up, thank you very much. i know i havent installed a clutch yet but would like to know, would a LS7 clutch need a shim? i know some throwout bearings have a different measure but just by experience do u guys use a shim for that clutch install?
I have installed a few, and no...have not come across one yet that needed a shim.
However, I would STILL measure...for the "1 in a million" chance that YOURS might. It takes all of 5 minutes once everything is apart, so no risk in measuring.
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Very nice writeup, but i wanted to throw this out there again - the seal in the slave floats. The floating seal is what allows for the factory to take into account variances in production quality, etc. By my math you could have about a 0.5 inch gap - and not be in danger of over extending the slave, and not need a shim to reduce the gap.
The volume of fluid pumped by the master divided by the area the fluid acts upon the slave equals the slaves movement.
The volume of fluid pumped by the master divided by the area the fluid acts upon the slave equals the slaves movement.
Well, I can correct your "estimate" as I have now done a setup with more than 1/2" of clearance (.580") and not use a shim, and work/shift just fine. This setup used a Mcleod Bell with motorplate.
Basically, what I am slowly finding out is that, there is quite a bit of "room for margin", and one would ALMOST think that heck, why even use a shim if coming up with this much clearance, and his setup still works/shifts???
What I CAN say is, I am doing all of this for knowledge/you guys, so YOU don't have to. In other words, if intalling a clutch on your own, and you measure (which you SHOULD), and you come out with what at first seems like "excessive clearance", you have 2 (two) options. #1) install the proper shim to get you back to "ideal specs" (@ .100-.150") OR, #2)if do not have a shim, and pressed for time, and your setup is calling for a shim (but you dont have one), go ahead and install tranny, and cross fingers, and see what happens.
Now, if you have some time on your hands, and yanking a tranny is no biggie to you, you can always do #2 anyways, for teh "let's see what happens" scenario. because basically, that is what I am doing when I come across a setup with that much clearance. Changing out a clutch is not that big of a deal for me, so I can take that risk. And that is why I am trying to share with you guys, so you don't have to go through the extra work.
Guys, I can only apologize for not being @ more lately. I have been very busy in the shop, along with a very good friend of mine passing away here recently, and my son got poked in teh eye with a drill, and was rushed to teh ER, and just some really crazy off teh wall **** like that. Things that are not a day to day occurence, so have been really tied up over the last couple/few weeks, and I do apologize (had alot of PM's/thread that went unanswered for awhile because of that) for the lapse in time before I was able to respond.
Now, I should be back every day, starting on Monday. I can hope so....
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Thanks Bearcatt, hope yours was a good one. Man, we had some kind of feast over here (wife is 100% Sicilian) so we don't have the "normal" turkey day over here...we have Squid, crab, pasta, fish, cutlet, etc...and MAN let me tell ya, it is some kind of delicious, but when I first was hit with that on turkey day, i was upset, I was like where is my turkey and dressing?!?!?!?!? And even though I still get it (from my Mom when we go to her house after) this Italian Thanksgiving is GOOOOOOOOOOOODDDDDDDDDDDDD!!!!
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just wanted to chime in on this . I have a "fluke" TOB as well mine came in at 1.958 and my "b" ended up at 2.193 leaving me with .235 so even with a LS7 clutch i will need a shim. So it does happen just thought i'd let everyone know.
#51
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Gen,
need your help. i took the measure meants. my slave to trany is 2.25 and my bellhousing to fingers is 1.25 so that is a difference of 1.00
so do i need a 1" spacer?
i have a mcloed twin dish clutch. lakewood bellhousing and a t56 magnum. (tr6060)
so any help would be nice.
Thanks
D
need your help. i took the measure meants. my slave to trany is 2.25 and my bellhousing to fingers is 1.25 so that is a difference of 1.00
so do i need a 1" spacer?
i have a mcloed twin dish clutch. lakewood bellhousing and a t56 magnum. (tr6060)
so any help would be nice.
Thanks
D
#53
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Ran into an issue trying to marry my T-56 and LSx yesterday with the new slave and an OE clutch. Marrying the eng-trans confirmed the measurements I took, that my clutch was releasing. With trans in gear, trans output would spin independent of the crank, i.e. Slave and clutchfingers are interference, measurement was negative .270”. After some research, finding this thread, the slave shimming thread and a how to adjust OE Pressure-Plates PDF, I was able to get everything back in check. More detail including pics of the pressure at both ends of the adjustment range are in the “Does your clutch need a shim thread” here;
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...l#post13249039
And why is this picture thread NOT listed in the Sticky list with the Shimming thread?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...l#post13249039
And why is this picture thread NOT listed in the Sticky list with the Shimming thread?
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Last edited by BRAAPZ; 04-27-2010 at 06:19 PM. Reason: Typo's
#55
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Gen,
need your help. i took the measure meants. my slave to trany is 2.25 and my bellhousing to fingers is 1.25 so that is a difference of 1.00
so do i need a 1" spacer?
i have a mcloed twin dish clutch. lakewood bellhousing and a t56 magnum. (tr6060)
so any help would be nice.
Thanks
D
need your help. i took the measure meants. my slave to trany is 2.25 and my bellhousing to fingers is 1.25 so that is a difference of 1.00
so do i need a 1" spacer?
i have a mcloed twin dish clutch. lakewood bellhousing and a t56 magnum. (tr6060)
so any help would be nice.
Thanks
D
Big Bird WS6,
Did you find a solution for your problem. I have an LS1 with a TKO600 and a lakewood blow proof bellhousing and the gap i have is 0.87 inch. I'm using the Mcleod Hydraulic bearing p/n 1364.
A= 3.35 inch
B= 2.48 inch
#56
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Can you please chime in on this article? What is different about their setup that allows them to say it is bolt and go? They come out and say that no shimming or measuring is required with this setup. Whatcha think?
http://www.customclassictrucks.com/t..._transmission/
http://www.customclassictrucks.com/t..._transmission/
#57
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Can you please chime in on this article? What is different about their setup that allows them to say it is bolt and go? They come out and say that no shimming or measuring is required with this setup. Whatcha think?
http://www.customclassictrucks.com/t..._transmission/
http://www.customclassictrucks.com/t..._transmission/
#58
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Yes, that makes sense. So in theory, the "stack up" tolerance error results from mixing and matching stock/aftermarket parts? I guess the only parts that could really throw off your clearances would be the bell housing, throwout bearing, and clutch/pressure plate. Even if one were using all GM parts, I'm sure he would need to use parts from the same model (I.e. LS7 Clutch/pp, LS7 bell, and LS7 TOB, correct?)
#59
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Yes, that makes sense. So in theory, the "stack up" tolerance error results from mixing and matching stock/aftermarket parts? I guess the only parts that could really throw off your clearances would be the bell housing, throwout bearing, and clutch/pressure plate. Even if one were using all GM parts, I'm sure he would need to use parts from the same model (I.e. LS7 Clutch/pp, LS7 bell, and LS7 TOB, correct?)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...need-shim.html
#60
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What is the typical distance to disengage a clutch? What many haven't considered, but really brought to light by Steve is the steel bellhousings with the block plates. This could reduce the cushion by .120"