Any reason an MN12 would shift better than a Camaro T56
#1
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For some reason every lsx based car I've driven with an MN12 like the c6 vettes and gtos the ease of shifting is a hell of a lot better compared to any standard t56 I've ever driven in any camaro / fbody
I have a tranny out of a ws6 in my ls1 rx7 and to me it feels almost like tractor equipment so I'm getting it rebuilt more than likely with the stage 2 equipment from tick performance. Wanted to know if anyone has done this and if it effected the way the car shifts for the better or worse. I just want to be able to go from gear to gear with ease at WOT, at the redline and get to the next shift quickly and without worrying if I'm hitting the right gear.
I have a tranny out of a ws6 in my ls1 rx7 and to me it feels almost like tractor equipment so I'm getting it rebuilt more than likely with the stage 2 equipment from tick performance. Wanted to know if anyone has done this and if it effected the way the car shifts for the better or worse. I just want to be able to go from gear to gear with ease at WOT, at the redline and get to the next shift quickly and without worrying if I'm hitting the right gear.
#2
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The MN12 and late model MM6 units all have double/triple cone synchros, over the single/double ones on the Fbody units. They basically have 33-50% more friction surface on the synchros to make shifting smoother..
I've built about a dozen Fbody units using the newer synchros, by using a C5 T56 as a donor. It's expensive, but gives you the smooth shifting, while retaining the MM6 gearing that the Fbody's originally came with.
Usually when you put in the billet keys/etc., the shifting gets a bit more difficult/notchy, but that's not the reason most people rebuild.. They want the strength&reliability the billet/bronze upgrades offer.
I've built about a dozen Fbody units using the newer synchros, by using a C5 T56 as a donor. It's expensive, but gives you the smooth shifting, while retaining the MM6 gearing that the Fbody's originally came with.
Usually when you put in the billet keys/etc., the shifting gets a bit more difficult/notchy, but that's not the reason most people rebuild.. They want the strength&reliability the billet/bronze upgrades offer.
#4
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The MN12 and late model MM6 units all have double/triple cone synchros, over the single/double ones on the Fbody units. They basically have 33-50% more friction surface on the synchros to make shifting smoother..
I've built about a dozen Fbody units using the newer synchros, by using a C5 T56 as a donor. It's expensive, but gives you the smooth shifting, while retaining the MM6 gearing that the Fbody's originally came with.
Usually when you put in the billet keys/etc., the shifting gets a bit more difficult/notchy, but that's not the reason most people rebuild.. They want the strength&reliability the billet/bronze upgrades offer.
I've built about a dozen Fbody units using the newer synchros, by using a C5 T56 as a donor. It's expensive, but gives you the smooth shifting, while retaining the MM6 gearing that the Fbody's originally came with.
Usually when you put in the billet keys/etc., the shifting gets a bit more difficult/notchy, but that's not the reason most people rebuild.. They want the strength&reliability the billet/bronze upgrades offer.
#5
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FWIW, I have a GTO unit ready/waiting for assembly, if you're interested:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts...l#post12518227
#6
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It's an option.. Depending on how you feel about the wider gear ratios. They work better in heavier cars, and it's up in the air if they are stronger or not. They are warranty-rated at 450lb-ft, the same as the Fbody units.
FWIW, I have a GTO unit ready/waiting for assembly, if you're interested:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts...l#post12518227
FWIW, I have a GTO unit ready/waiting for assembly, if you're interested:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts...l#post12518227
I was thinking I could probably straight swap my tranny for an MN12 I am just trying to make sure it would actually give me the feel I'm looking for, the ratios will work, and how different the shifter location is. I know I'll have to modify the shift handle to come up in the stock location in the rx7 but that shouldent be a big deal
#7
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Yes, your lightweight car wouldn't like the wide ratio trans much. The shifter would be exactly the same as your LS1-T56 after swapping over the shifter base and offset lever.
If you find a good deal on a non-Z06 C5 T56, that would be the ideal swap into your LS1 housing. Where are you located?
If you find a good deal on a non-Z06 C5 T56, that would be the ideal swap into your LS1 housing. Where are you located?
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#8
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Yes, your lightweight car wouldn't like the wide ratio trans much. The shifter would be exactly the same as your LS1-T56 after swapping over the shifter base and offset lever.
If you find a good deal on a non-Z06 C5 T56, that would be the ideal swap into your LS1 housing. Where are you located?
If you find a good deal on a non-Z06 C5 T56, that would be the ideal swap into your LS1 housing. Where are you located?
I'm in mass
#9
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The non-Z06 C5 T56s use the same MM6 narrow gear spread as the Fbody T56s, but with the upgraded double/triple cone synchros. You can throw all the internals from one on a GTO mainshaft and have your existing trans shifting like the MN12, but with the same gear ratios you have now..
I just day-tripped to Mass to tour the factory-five production. But the 12hr round-trip drive wears you down..
I just day-tripped to Mass to tour the factory-five production. But the 12hr round-trip drive wears you down..
#10
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The traction difference was huge in my car going from the stock gearing to the MN12 on Nittos. With the ET Street Radials traction is fine with around 400rwhp on the street, but I could see it being an issue on, say, a 100 shot in first gear without a burnout. Nittos were pretty much useless (I have 4.10s, as well).
#11
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The traction difference was huge in my car going from the stock gearing to the MN12 on Nittos. With the ET Street Radials traction is fine with around 400rwhp on the street, but I could see it being an issue on, say, a 100 shot in first gear without a burnout. Nittos were pretty much useless (I have 4.10s, as well).