Clutch install@home. What tools I need?
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Clutch install@home. What tools I need?
It looks like my rear main seal is leaking, that means it's about time to do the clutch. Is there any special tools I need for the installation? Other than the rear main seal and clutch, I'll also replace the master and slave cylinder. Keep in mind I'll be doing all the work in my home garage, meaning everything will be on the ground and no lift.
This is my first time replacing clutch (I've experience in other engine work) and there'll be a mechanic friend working with me. I found this clutch install write up at InstallUniversity.com. Any other area I need to pay attention to? I'll get a tranny floor jack from harbor freight.
Any help will be appreciate.
This is my first time replacing clutch (I've experience in other engine work) and there'll be a mechanic friend working with me. I found this clutch install write up at InstallUniversity.com. Any other area I need to pay attention to? I'll get a tranny floor jack from harbor freight.
Any help will be appreciate.
#2
Extensions and u-joints with an air impact do wonders for disassembly, on the low setting, it does well putting it back together (not for final assembly tho).
I did make some 2x4 blocks to set under the front tires (stacked 3 high) to free up some room under the car.
I did make some 2x4 blocks to set under the front tires (stacked 3 high) to free up some room under the car.
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I rented a puller from autozone for the pinion bearing in the back of the block. They give you your money back when your done. My monster clutch came with a new bearing so I put it in.
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There is no special tool. Unless hes talking about the clutch alignment tool that comes with the clutch. It holds the clutch plate centered while because the shaft from your tranny wont be in there to hold it centered. I also used the slide hammer pilot bearing puller. The only thing is, the one from autozone didnt fit inside, I had to bust part of the bearing race out to fit mine it.
I would definetely either buy or rent a tranny jack. I bought one from harbor freight, I ended up not using it because I would of had to raise my car another 10 inches to get it under the car. I used 2 jacks, one of the front and one of the back of the tranny , it sucked. a tranny jack makes it 1000 times easier. I am buying a good one if i ever have to pull the tranny again.
I would definetely either buy or rent a tranny jack. I bought one from harbor freight, I ended up not using it because I would of had to raise my car another 10 inches to get it under the car. I used 2 jacks, one of the front and one of the back of the tranny , it sucked. a tranny jack makes it 1000 times easier. I am buying a good one if i ever have to pull the tranny again.
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OK, thanx alot for the info. About the installation, anything I need to pay attention to or be careful of? If I just follow the write-up from InstallUniversity.com, I should get the job done no problem right?
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A 24" straight extension works great to get those top trans to bellhousing bolts from near the back of trans. To hold the flywheel, I found the best way was to use a breaker bar or long ratchet on the balancer bolt, rotated to contact the chasis. This then holds the rotating assembly in one place while you remove or torque the flywheel bolts.
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I made a small cradle out of 2x6 lumber that screws down to the pad on the floorjack. It cradles the tranny and drops it right down.
Only real special tool needed (but not required) is a pilot bushing puller. You can also pound in with a hammer, lots soaking wet toilet paper into the hole and the bushing will pop out. Yes I verified that this works.
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Only real special tool needed (but not required) is a pilot bushing puller. You can also pound in with a hammer, lots soaking wet toilet paper into the hole and the bushing will pop out. Yes I verified that this works.
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I just watched the video in the link, and thats some funny stuff. If you cant get a friend to come help you pull and re install the trans try laying on your back under the car and rolling the trans up on you put the end that attaches to the bell housing on your knees and hold the tailshaft end with your hands and just stick it in. It sound harder than it is, its very easy this way. much better than your $1500 dollar trans falling off two jacks.
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I bought the cheap small 3-jaw bearing puller from harbor freight and used 2 of the jaws with a bit of grinding, and was able to get the old bearing out. Destroyed it in the process, but it worked.
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I also found it easier to position the tranny by hand. once you drain the fluid its really not THAT heavy. Plus once your at that point i was so pissed that i could throw that damn thing.
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I had the trans in and out of my car probably 8-9 times now all by hand (no trans jacks) and with the car on jackstands in my garage (no lift). You really don't need any special tools that I can recall. I didn't do my master so I can't ask any questions about that.
Sometimes when reinstalling the trans it will be a pain in the *** to get it 100% lined up and 100% flush against the bellhousing. Just curse at it, wiggle it around, curse at it more, mess with it more, a few more curses and it will finally pop right in as your about to give up. Believe me on it that works. Also the slave may be tricky to pop off the steel line, you have to get down in the tabs with something small and thin and slide it off. Once you do it one time you will get the hang of it.
Sometimes when reinstalling the trans it will be a pain in the *** to get it 100% lined up and 100% flush against the bellhousing. Just curse at it, wiggle it around, curse at it more, mess with it more, a few more curses and it will finally pop right in as your about to give up. Believe me on it that works. Also the slave may be tricky to pop off the steel line, you have to get down in the tabs with something small and thin and slide it off. Once you do it one time you will get the hang of it.