Out with the Spec and in with ??
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Appleton, WI
Out with the Spec and in with ?? Hi guys, I haven't been on here in a long time or added any new mods to my car for years but I'm back.
I picked up some LT headers and a new cam awhile back and am getting ready to put them in this winter. While I'm at that I am going to pull the tranny and install a new clutch. I currently have a Spec stage 3 in the car and absolutely hate it. It squeals, shudders, and royally pisses me off. Looking back there is now reason I should of even bought that type of clutch as my car is fairly stock but live and learn I guess.
So I'm looking for some recommendations on a new clutch for a daily driver with headers and cam. I do not plan on modding the car any more than that so I don't need some super heavy duty clutch for 500+ hp.
So here are the questions.
1. Good daily driver clutch setup/ what has worked for you? Price?
2. Do I really need a new flywheel? aluminum or steel?
3. While I have this stuff apart is there anything else worth doing?
4. Any other advice?
My car will probably only go to the drag strip once a year and maybe an autocross event or two a summer.
I did do some searching for old threads and will again when I get more time but if you want to link some that pertain to my situation that would be great too.
Thanks guys!
I picked up some LT headers and a new cam awhile back and am getting ready to put them in this winter. While I'm at that I am going to pull the tranny and install a new clutch. I currently have a Spec stage 3 in the car and absolutely hate it. It squeals, shudders, and royally pisses me off. Looking back there is now reason I should of even bought that type of clutch as my car is fairly stock but live and learn I guess.
So I'm looking for some recommendations on a new clutch for a daily driver with headers and cam. I do not plan on modding the car any more than that so I don't need some super heavy duty clutch for 500+ hp.
So here are the questions.
1. Good daily driver clutch setup/ what has worked for you? Price?
2. Do I really need a new flywheel? aluminum or steel?
3. While I have this stuff apart is there anything else worth doing?
4. Any other advice?
My car will probably only go to the drag strip once a year and maybe an autocross event or two a summer.
I did do some searching for old threads and will again when I get more time but if you want to link some that pertain to my situation that would be great too.
Thanks guys!
Last edited by Crazy Z28; Jan 26, 2010 at 08:41 AM.
Textralia oz700 Z Grip.
I have this in my car and pound for pound has taken the abuse and held up perfectly. I mated it to a Tick Perf. Master Cyl and have never looked back.
The whole set up is like $1,000 + Cost of Master Cyl and if smart a new slave and pilot bearing. The kit comes with a new Flywheel, and is considered smart to buy it matched. As Stated when it is apart, you put in a new Slave and regular Clutch master as well as pilot bearing.
This clutch, you can slip it like stock and it takes it.
There are Monster Clutches out there, I have not used them but I think that there is a core group here that will talk them up so get some of their experiences too.
I have this in my car and pound for pound has taken the abuse and held up perfectly. I mated it to a Tick Perf. Master Cyl and have never looked back.
The whole set up is like $1,000 + Cost of Master Cyl and if smart a new slave and pilot bearing. The kit comes with a new Flywheel, and is considered smart to buy it matched. As Stated when it is apart, you put in a new Slave and regular Clutch master as well as pilot bearing.
This clutch, you can slip it like stock and it takes it.
There are Monster Clutches out there, I have not used them but I think that there is a core group here that will talk them up so get some of their experiences too.
Textralia oz700 Z Grip.
I have this in my car and pound for pound has taken the abuse and held up perfectly. I mated it to a Tick Perf. Master Cyl and have never looked back.
The whole set up is like $1,000 + Cost of Master Cyl and if smart a new slave and pilot bearing. The kit comes with a new Flywheel, and is considered smart to buy it matched. As Stated when it is apart, you put in a new Slave and regular Clutch master as well as pilot bearing.
This clutch, you can slip it like stock and it takes it.
There are Monster Clutches out there, I have not used them but I think that there is a core group here that will talk them up so get some of their experiences too.
I have this in my car and pound for pound has taken the abuse and held up perfectly. I mated it to a Tick Perf. Master Cyl and have never looked back.
The whole set up is like $1,000 + Cost of Master Cyl and if smart a new slave and pilot bearing. The kit comes with a new Flywheel, and is considered smart to buy it matched. As Stated when it is apart, you put in a new Slave and regular Clutch master as well as pilot bearing.
This clutch, you can slip it like stock and it takes it.
There are Monster Clutches out there, I have not used them but I think that there is a core group here that will talk them up so get some of their experiences too.
Based off of those goals, I'd go with an LS7 setup. It should work perfectly considering your intended use. I usually replace the slave while I'm in there (since it comes with a new throwout bearing), and always replace the pilot bearing. If you wanted to install a remote bleeder to make life a little easier while bleeding the clutch, that would be the time to do it because you need full access to the slave cylinder.
If you want a clutch that performs like stock, you'll need to go with a stock-type clutch. That includes the clamp load of the pressure plate and friction material on the disk.
I've personally driven an LS7 clutch that was in a heads/cam Formula, and it held that power with no problems, and the dude drove the hell out of that car. As long as you don't hot lap it at the drag strip, it should last a long time.
If you want a clutch that performs like stock, you'll need to go with a stock-type clutch. That includes the clamp load of the pressure plate and friction material on the disk.
I've personally driven an LS7 clutch that was in a heads/cam Formula, and it held that power with no problems, and the dude drove the hell out of that car. As long as you don't hot lap it at the drag strip, it should last a long time.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Appleton, WI
I don't really want to be spending $1,000 on a new setup....not even $700 really. An LS7 or Stage 2 Monster seem like some pretty good options.
Is the aluminum flywheel worth the extra money?
Do I really need a new slave or master?
I wasn't really looking to do this project at all and don't want to throw uneccessary money at it but I also don't want to be to cheap and not change something while I have it all apart. I'd rather do it right the first time.
Thanks for the input guys!
Is the aluminum flywheel worth the extra money?
Do I really need a new slave or master?
I wasn't really looking to do this project at all and don't want to throw uneccessary money at it but I also don't want to be to cheap and not change something while I have it all apart. I'd rather do it right the first time.
Thanks for the input guys!
Crazy, I sure am sorry that you are unhappy with your stage 3 clutch. Of course, you did buy a carbon-semi-metallic based pucked disc which is going to be more agressive than our other full-faced options. Based on the info you provide relative to your goals a stage 2 ot 2+ would provide more than enough capacity and great drivability. That being said if you want to go that route let me know and I will be happy to work with you. And, if you let me know when and from where you bought the parts, and assuming that the plate and flywheel are in good shape (which is dependent on the amount of wear, heat, and flatness) I may be able to sell you another disc that could be used with your existing set-up. Either way, let me know if you have any further questions and I will be happy to assist you. Thanks,
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I don't really want to be spending $1,000 on a new setup....not even $700 really. An LS7 or Stage 2 Monster seem like some pretty good options.
Is the aluminum flywheel worth the extra money?
Do I really need a new slave or master?
I wasn't really looking to do this project at all and don't want to throw uneccessary money at it but I also don't want to be to cheap and not change something while I have it all apart. I'd rather do it right the first time.
Thanks for the input guys!
Is the aluminum flywheel worth the extra money?
Do I really need a new slave or master?
I wasn't really looking to do this project at all and don't want to throw uneccessary money at it but I also don't want to be to cheap and not change something while I have it all apart. I'd rather do it right the first time.
Thanks for the input guys!
New master? Probably not.
New slave? It depends - but at the very least, I'd replace the throwout bearing. The last time I priced a throwout bearing, the cost was damn near what the entire slave cylinder assmebly was, which comes with a brand new throwout bearing. This one is up to you - if a master cylinder goes out, you don't have to drop the transmission to fix it. If the slave goes out, you'll be dropping the transmission (again).
If I were you, I'd give Spec a call. The clutch you went with was way too aggressive for you...just like any other clutch company, they have less aggressive options, and their support on here is good. People just need to be realistic about their intended power goals and their tolerance for shitty driveability. You can't honestly expect a puck-style clutch to drive even remotely similar to a full-faced design.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Appleton, WI
Crazy, I sure am sorry that you are unhappy with your stage 3 clutch. Of course, you did buy a carbon-semi-metallic based pucked disc which is going to be more agressive than our other full-faced options. Based on the info you provide relative to your goals a stage 2 ot 2+ would provide more than enough capacity and great drivability. That being said if you want to go that route let me know and I will be happy to work with you. And, if you let me know when and from where you bought the parts, and assuming that the plate and flywheel are in good shape (which is dependent on the amount of wear, heat, and flatness) I may be able to sell you another disc that could be used with your existing set-up. Either way, let me know if you have any further questions and I will be happy to assist you. Thanks,
I don't blame Spec at all. I just didn't know what I was getting into at the the time with a pucked disc(young/dumb). So if my plate and flywheel are still good I can possibly just replace the pucked disc with a full face one? I'll try to dig up where I got it from but it's been a few years already.
Thanks
Potentially! It just comes down to what kind of shape the parts are in. Knowing when and where this was bought will make nailing down what you need easier. We have changed disc thickness (in Feb. 2008) and disc diameter (2009) so I want to insure that we know exactly what you have. I am happy to answer questions and assistance over this thread or you can call me when you find the original purchase info. Thanks again!
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Appleton, WI
Potentially! It just comes down to what kind of shape the parts are in. Knowing when and where this was bought will make nailing down what you need easier. We have changed disc thickness (in Feb. 2008) and disc diameter (2009) so I want to insure that we know exactly what you have. I am happy to answer questions and assistance over this thread or you can call me when you find the original purchase info. Thanks again!
Found it!
Thank god for old threads. Looks like I ordered from LM performance (I think they are a sponsor here) in July of 2004. I probably have about 40,000 miles on this clutch. I may start my project this weekend and could have the clutch out to measure whatever is needed. Pretty old so hopefully you guys would still have something that would work.....that is if my parts are still good.Thanks again!
If it is that old it would have an initial disc thickness of .310". If you disc has less than .290" then it is in need of replacment. You should also check flatness of the pressure-plate. If there is anything more than a .005" outage for flatness then you need a new plate. The same could be said for the flywheel...of course if you have our aluminum flywheel you can replace the FPK. Let me know what you find. Thanks,
I had a Spec 2 that I would recommend for your setup. I've also had a Tex and experience with a Monster 3, both of which kick ***. The Tex is worth the money but big money and both may be overkill for your setup. I haven't had any experience with an LS7 but based on your power and track plans and the research I've done, it sounds like it might be something to look at for you, as recommended previously. Good luck, man!
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Appleton, WI
Well I will try to pull it out this weekend if I'm not snowmobiling. Then I can have the machine shop at work check the flatness and everything else. I will give you a call when I get all the numbers.
Thanks for all the other input too guys!
Thanks for all the other input too guys!
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Appleton, WI
Ok I got it all apart. Flywheel looks good. Disk is ok. Pressure plate....not sure? It appears there is some hairline cracking, caused by heat?
I think I will probably go with a whole new setup just to be safe. Looking for something with good street manners and long life. The car might see the track once every year or two.
Looks like the best options could be:
Spec Stage 2
Monster Stage 2
LS7
I'm going to see if I can add a poll to the original post. Recommendations on who has the best price and/or service is appreciated. Thanks.
I think I will probably go with a whole new setup just to be safe. Looking for something with good street manners and long life. The car might see the track once every year or two.
Looks like the best options could be:
Spec Stage 2
Monster Stage 2
LS7
I'm going to see if I can add a poll to the original post. Recommendations on who has the best price and/or service is appreciated. Thanks.
What does the disc measure out to relative to thickness? Have you put a straight-edge on the plate and flywheel? Did you use a feeler-gauge to check the outage of both surfaces? I ask these questions because the answers are important relative to getting another disc...which is one of the options you were interested in. Let me know. Thanks,
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Appleton, WI
What does the disc measure out to relative to thickness? Have you put a straight-edge on the plate and flywheel? Did you use a feeler-gauge to check the outage of both surfaces? I ask these questions because the answers are important relative to getting another disc...which is one of the options you were interested in. Let me know. Thanks,
Ok just got the numbers back from my machine shop at work. I wanted a sanity check after I got my figures this morning.
Disc is .288 - .292
Plate is .015 out of flat
Flywheel is .008 out of flat
So basically disc and plate are junk and flywheel could be turned down .01 and re-used if I wanted?
Thanks.