My goodness...this must be terribly frustrating. If you had another pilot issue is could cause noise that would sound like a low moan/growing sound. Send me some pics of the parts this time...that was I can help you better assess what is happening.

 

Once its back apart we'll take some pictures. Its getting ridiculous now I won't know what to do if its the pilot bearing again.

 

Check to see that the input shaft on the transmission is straight. Put a dial indicator on the end of the shaft, on or near the stub that enters the bushing & check that it's straight. Don't know the in tolerance spec, but, if the indicator moves alot, then there is a bent shaft. Might also be that the mating surfaces between the trans, bell housing, block, trans plate if you have one. Just some things to check.

 

Will do. We're going to try using studs to help guide the trans back onto the bellhousing its back out but can't really tell anything yet.

 

I think it's the pilot again. Is it worth $22 for a GM pilot bearing or should I just get another $15 National bearing?

 

I know I've mentioned it to you, Josh...but I'm curious now, the more I think about it. I've heard that you can use a pilot bearing from an 80's model Chevy pickup. I think they are all bronze and don't have needle bearings. Has anyone else ever heard of this?

 

It's gotts be an alignment issue. Did you check the input shaft to see if it was bent? What about the bolted surfaces of the trans, bell housing...as we discussed earlier? Check the outside diameter of the smalle tip of the input shaft & the inside diameter of the pilot bearing, as well. Make sure that the ID if the pilot bearing is larger than the OD of the tip of the input shaft that goes into it.

Something is wrong. Pilot bearings don't just fail the first time the car is turned on unless they're faulty(unlikely, as it's happened to more than 1), installed incorrectly, there's a fit problem, or an alignment problem.

 

Sounds like you are where I was 3 weeks ago, as far as I can tell in my situation whatever caused the unusually low pedal caused the driver to trash the trans, The 02 SS i'm working on was crazy hard to get into 1st & reverse, the T/O Bearing was trashed.

defiantly check for play in the input shaft, shoving the trans up in it's home isn't going to tear up the bearing.

Did you install the bearing far enough into the crank?

I do have the same crazy low pedal and I am starting to question the quality of my parts store hydraulics,

check this out too.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...need-shim.html

 

Thanks guys. The input shaft doesn't appear to be bent and it has 100% no play in it. Hopefully this will be the last time we have to do this.

 

Joe- I just saw your message hours after you posted it, lol. I just got another National Bearing from work. I hope after tomorrow night we will be done. You're welcome to come by again if you'd like. We'll be out there around 7.

 

ya i installed it.

 

hmmmm. We're gonna try to put the new pilot in tonight after we get off work and see if we can round up some help to stab the tranny back in. We've been using a socket and hammer to coerce the pilot bearing in fairly gently. Any particular way you guys install them?

 

Socket & hammer is fine. Lube the pilot bearing w/ white lithium grease this time to help reduce or eliminate the bearing sounds. Use white lithium because it will stick & stay w/ the pilot bearing & won't run down onto the friction plate.

This time, if it doesn't work, try using the bronze sleeve bushing that joesscamaro252 noted above. The bronze or brass will wear in @ the miss-alignment point that's causing the noise. Once worn in, should be OK. Just make sure it's applicable before buying one.

 

It wasn't the pilot bearing this time. Everything looked fine. We're going to try and use a GM slave cylinder instead of this Advance Auto slave. I'll post results tomorrow.

 

Did you have a look @ the throw out bearing (sits on the slave cylinder). Make sure it turns freely. Personally, I wouldn't waste any more money on a slave cylinder. The cylinder travel is the same. The noise could be the throw out bearing or even just the friction plate kissing the flywheel or pressure plate surface. If it's not the throw out bearing, just do the RPM test mentioned earlier that confirms the slutch is released & drive it for a while.

 

Let us know what you do, I am not having faith in my Advanced Auto parts either

 

Well, we put a GM slave with the Spec throwout bearing in and now it makes a new noise. You can hear it over the exhaust and motor. I took a vid with my phone but I can't upload it. It's a very fast rotational noise but I don't know what it is. We checked the clutch disk against the flywheel like Spec01 suggested on the phone and it's flat as a pancake. My input shaft has 0 play in it and spins very true. I don't know if it will do any good but I'm gonna put my stock clutch and flywheel back in it and see if it still makes noise. If it's good then I don't know what I'm gonna do. I probably won't get to do this until mid-week but I'll post results again. Also, someone suggested a warped bellhousing (unlikely) but I may borrow a friends just to check.

 

Im having the same issues with my spec kit.

I didnt buy the adjustable master yet, But im watching this thread so keep it updated.

Right now im debating on just biting the bullet , ripping out the spec and installing a ls7 kit like I first wanted to ....

 

Gotta find a way to upload the sound of the noise.

 

There is nothing in the clutch assembly that is going to make noise when the clutch pedal released. At this point the clutch is engaged, with the disc clamped between the plate and flywheel, and thus there isn't really a way for this to make any noise.

Max, I have read and posted in your thread but you referenced an issue with shifting at higher RPM but I don't recall any reference to noise. Are you hearing sound too?