Problems with new clutch and tranny, need help
#1
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Problems with new clutch and tranny, need help
I have a 99 trans am ws6 6 speed, i had a mechanic put in a new clutch and rebuilt tranny, he said to take it easy for the first 500 and its going to feel different. I put in a SPEC performance clutch, it is kind of difficult to put into first and reverse, when going from stop to first i keep stalling because there is very little play when letting off the clutch from the original. I'm not sure if it's me or possibly the rebuilt tranny? or bad brand new clutch? second gear doesn't always catch and i'll accidently end up grinding it. Any suggestions? the mechanic says it needs to be broken in but i'm not sure whats going on. Anyone ever have these issues?
#3
I'm having a similar issue, it's very difficult to get into first and reverse, pushing the clutch to the floor sometimes will go in smoothly. The transmission is just rebuilt and the clutch is brand new (LuK OEM style).
Do you know how far the slave should extend to fully disengage the clutch? Also, how long does the clutch need to be bled to fully work the air out? It's been pushing a steady stream of fluid, out of the clutch; is it possible that after more bleeding the clutch will disengage sooner? Should I expect it to be better in 5-600 miles as well?
Do you know how far the slave should extend to fully disengage the clutch? Also, how long does the clutch need to be bled to fully work the air out? It's been pushing a steady stream of fluid, out of the clutch; is it possible that after more bleeding the clutch will disengage sooner? Should I expect it to be better in 5-600 miles as well?
#5
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SPEC should have provided a shim. It's about .150" thick. When my car had a spec the pedal was very high, almost at the top of the travel. When I took it apart there was a shim behind the slave cyl. It's made of paper/fiber and looks just like this one:
http://www.speedinc.com/cont.cfm?cid=C0000737
http://www.speedinc.com/cont.cfm?cid=C0000737
#7
Mine was doing the exact same thing (listed in the post above).
I hooked a MityVac up to the fluid reservoir and put it on 5, 10, 15, then 20 Hg vacuum (http://home.comcast.net/~buschman_00...utchbleed.html - maintenance bleed in the instructions) and pumped through the top half of the clutch throw each time 20-30 times. This worked out numerous air bubbles, and it will now release completely where before it was very difficult even with the pedal on the floor. Took about 10 minutes with two people.
I hooked a MityVac up to the fluid reservoir and put it on 5, 10, 15, then 20 Hg vacuum (http://home.comcast.net/~buschman_00...utchbleed.html - maintenance bleed in the instructions) and pumped through the top half of the clutch throw each time 20-30 times. This worked out numerous air bubbles, and it will now release completely where before it was very difficult even with the pedal on the floor. Took about 10 minutes with two people.
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#8
Sorry I missed this post earlier. I agree with News, mighty vac the reservoir (and the bleeder valve off the slave if this was not done previously) and you should see a nice improvement relative to pedal travel for engagement. Keep me posted too if you have any further questions. Thanks,
#9
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I had them vacuum it and it made no difference. They say I need to replace the slave cylinder but I just replaced it in August. Could it go that fast if it was being used with a bad clutch?