I've recently installed a Monster clutch and have been breaking it in per the recommended protocol to a tee. I have looked into this however, and there are many knowledgeable people that say there is no break in per say...just heat cycle a couple of times and then go for it lol. My tuner is one of "these people." If you look around on the internet, you will hear both sides of the story. I'd like to hear from people who have or have not broken their clutches in with easy, stop and go driving for 500 miles. I'm not looking so much for responses like "my clutch manufacturer recommends it, so I'm doing it." I'm looking more for "experiences" of people who have done it either way, and what the outcome was.

 

My car is not driven on the street so it went from the lift to the trailer then to the track. It got broken in during my burnout. Never had any issues with the clutch and it's still in my car. It will be coming out for a soft-loc but thats only because I'm going with a ALL OUT DRAG clutch.My old spec 3i will be going in my street car so it will still be going strong. Best 60ft. was a 1.45

 

The manufactures usually know what there talking about so i usually do what they recommended.

 

Just need to heat cycle it...the milage thing is more for people who don't know how to heat cycle it properly.

 

x2

 

What's the proper way to heat cycle it?

 

Break-in is all about seating/bedding the material. This is due to the fact that the disc surface will always have a bit of variance and because the outer edge of the disc will wear in faster than the inner edge (farther from the center-line of the assembly). If you do not seat the material the unit will not provide its maximum drivability, capacity, or durability. That being said, we suggest a 500 miles break-in because it allows the materials to seat fully before they are aggressively driven in all kits other than our stage 5. Please let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,

 

Why is this not necessary with the stage 5? Why is it that many people don't follow the break in period for 500 miles and their clutches work great and last a long time? Is the 500 mi. break in protocol just a way to cover the clutch manufacturer and if so how. If the clutch is driven stop and go with many heat cycles, is there really a need to put 500 miles on it? When you buy a new car off the lot, why isn't there a clutch break in period? Sorry for all the questions, as there isn't many answers on the internet...just alot of opinions. Thanks.

 

It is all relative to the disc material used. Sintered Iron, which is the material used for the Stage 5 disc, actually has a machined face (like a FW or pressure-plate). Other materials commonly used are actually molded and not cut which allows for the variance in the surface which necessitated break-in.

The mileage suggested for break-in is relative to the typical amount of mileage required to fully seat the material. This mileage can vary dependent on the driving style of the individual user and as such is merely a generalized estimate that should cover the largest number of users possible. I hope this info helps. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,

 

I want more info, i had thought that the disc and the clutch mated up to each other by the clutch wearing to fit the imperfections on the disc surface...and that it would take of excess material if there wasnt a break-in period

 

You will see material removed from the disc as well as the pressure-plate and flywheel surfaces...but the seating process is relative to the entire assembly. Ultimately the disc still seats (relative to material removed from it or the corresponding steel surfaces of the plate or FW).

This is evidenced by the disc thinning and the dishing of the FW/PP surface as a result of wear. Remember, friction affects all surfaces.

 

That is exactly what I was looking for...thanks Jeremy for taking the time to provide an excellent explanation!

 

The only manufacture that never recommended and specifically stated you can drive as is was Textralia. I have one of those. I was still taking it easy but once I read up on it. It was ***** out time.

UNLESS the Manufacture (not parts seller) states you do NOT need a break in. I recommend it. I also recommend taking it easy until you confirm proper pedal pressure and clutch engagement.

Over all this will ensure proper life expectancy.

 

No problem at all! I am happy to help any time.

 

my old spec 3i is a iron sintered disc so I guess thats why from the lift to the trailer to the track method worked for me.

 

Heat cycles are way more important than any miles. As long as you head cycle it a few good times with a few miles, in stop and go traffic....let it eat. Most companies like the 500 mile rule for clutch chatter more than anything.

 

rednek

My $02

one componet of "why" 500 mile break-in on aftermarket clutches is any clutch will operate better if the FW & PP surfaces are machined properly but in many cases people do not or resurface was not done properly so a 500 mile 'break-in" period helps accomadate those indifferences. in the case of not resurfaceing FW the new clutch often will only partially seat on the uneven FW and wear quickly with deminished performance (holding power)

organic aka "stock" clutch disc material is more forgiving than more aggressive disc surfaces like kevlar, ceramic, etc.. On new vehicles the FW & PP are known to be new and straight and have organic discs so "break-in" on new vehicles is not openly stated on vehicles.

heat cycle is, IMHO, a good pratice with clutches of any kind...like breaking in new brake discs.....you don't slam them on the first few heat cycles so the pad and rotor can seat.

 

Thats makes sense ******..thanks for you input.