Recommended Clutch Kits and questions
#1
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Recommended Clutch Kits and questions
hello all
I am getting ready to do my first clutch swap on a LS1. I was wondering what are good clutches for these cars. My car is just a bolt-on car making 350 RWHP. I mainly just drive it to and from work and jump on it a few times a week. I don't plan on racing it seriously anytime soon because it has the stock rearend in it.
So I was wondering what would be a recommended clutch kit. I can get a decent deal on a new Spec stage I and wondered what people thought of it. I called the local auto parts stores and they all sell kits including the flywheel and throw-out bearing. Has anyone installed an Auto Zone kit? Why do they all have flywheels? Every other kit I ever bought was only the clutch disc and pressure plate. Can't the factory flywheel be turned? Is the factory flywheel aluminum or steel?
I have a rattle when the clutch pedal is pushed in. I assume this is more likely the throw-out bearing than the pressure plate or disc, but don't know for sure.
I appreciate your input.
Thanks!
I am getting ready to do my first clutch swap on a LS1. I was wondering what are good clutches for these cars. My car is just a bolt-on car making 350 RWHP. I mainly just drive it to and from work and jump on it a few times a week. I don't plan on racing it seriously anytime soon because it has the stock rearend in it.
So I was wondering what would be a recommended clutch kit. I can get a decent deal on a new Spec stage I and wondered what people thought of it. I called the local auto parts stores and they all sell kits including the flywheel and throw-out bearing. Has anyone installed an Auto Zone kit? Why do they all have flywheels? Every other kit I ever bought was only the clutch disc and pressure plate. Can't the factory flywheel be turned? Is the factory flywheel aluminum or steel?
I have a rattle when the clutch pedal is pushed in. I assume this is more likely the throw-out bearing than the pressure plate or disc, but don't know for sure.
I appreciate your input.
Thanks!
#2
hello all
I am getting ready to do my first clutch swap on a LS1. I was wondering what are good clutches for these cars. My car is just a bolt-on car making 350 RWHP. I mainly just drive it to and from work and jump on it a few times a week. I don't plan on racing it seriously anytime soon because it has the stock rearend in it.
So I was wondering what would be a recommended clutch kit. I can get a decent deal on a new Spec stage I and wondered what people thought of it. I called the local auto parts stores and they all sell kits including the flywheel and throw-out bearing. Has anyone installed an Auto Zone kit? Why do they all have flywheels? Every other kit I ever bought was only the clutch disc and pressure plate. Can't the factory flywheel be turned? Is the factory flywheel aluminum or steel?
I have a rattle when the clutch pedal is pushed in. I assume this is more likely the throw-out bearing than the pressure plate or disc, but don't know for sure.
I appreciate your input.
Thanks!
I am getting ready to do my first clutch swap on a LS1. I was wondering what are good clutches for these cars. My car is just a bolt-on car making 350 RWHP. I mainly just drive it to and from work and jump on it a few times a week. I don't plan on racing it seriously anytime soon because it has the stock rearend in it.
So I was wondering what would be a recommended clutch kit. I can get a decent deal on a new Spec stage I and wondered what people thought of it. I called the local auto parts stores and they all sell kits including the flywheel and throw-out bearing. Has anyone installed an Auto Zone kit? Why do they all have flywheels? Every other kit I ever bought was only the clutch disc and pressure plate. Can't the factory flywheel be turned? Is the factory flywheel aluminum or steel?
I have a rattle when the clutch pedal is pushed in. I assume this is more likely the throw-out bearing than the pressure plate or disc, but don't know for sure.
I appreciate your input.
Thanks!
I wound up going with a Sachs kit and it's the best decision I think I made. It grabs great, holds strong, very street able and near zero break in time. I got it from KYclutch for about 310.00 bucks. That's for the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearings and pilot bushing.
The stock flywheel is steel and a local machine shop charged 40.00 to turn it.
I decided to up it up and spent the money for a tick adjustable master cylinder which by and far is the best money I spent.
You can get the Sachs kit at NAPA iirc. You can get the LUK gold from Pep Boys or Oreilly and I think those are okay also. But they run Sachs in all the BMW's and I don't think they have any problems.
#3
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i just ordered my monster stage 3, seems to be the most popular on this site, only heard people rant and rave about them, and their customer service is suppose to be top notch
#4
I'm not racing my car, and it sounds like the OP isn't going to be either and there's really no reason to spend all that money on a race style puck clutch if he just needs a standard clutch.
#5
Check out a LS7 clutch, alot cheaper than most aftermarket clutch's and will hold your power plus some with no problem. Also drives like stock. I just had one installed and picked it up this afternoon. Going to take it easy for the first couple hundred miles, then I'm going to see what it's made of.
#6
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i went with the spec 2+ and got the aluminum pressure plate option.....i couldn't be happier.....it's tame around town, no chatter whatsoever....but has the same clamping power as a spec stage 3, only the disk is slightly different.....it revs super fast with the lighter weight, almost like i have an aluminum flywheel.......the factory hydralics are garbage, look at a tick master or ram adjustable when you upgrade....ls7 kits are good until you start modding
#7
hello all
I am getting ready to do my first clutch swap on a LS1. I was wondering what are good clutches for these cars. My car is just a bolt-on car making 350 RWHP. I mainly just drive it to and from work and jump on it a few times a week. I don't plan on racing it seriously anytime soon because it has the stock rearend in it.
So I was wondering what would be a recommended clutch kit. I can get a decent deal on a new Spec stage I and wondered what people thought of it. I called the local auto parts stores and they all sell kits including the flywheel and throw-out bearing. Has anyone installed an Auto Zone kit? Why do they all have flywheels? Every other kit I ever bought was only the clutch disc and pressure plate. Can't the factory flywheel be turned? Is the factory flywheel aluminum or steel?
I have a rattle when the clutch pedal is pushed in. I assume this is more likely the throw-out bearing than the pressure plate or disc, but don't know for sure.
I appreciate your input.
Thanks!
I am getting ready to do my first clutch swap on a LS1. I was wondering what are good clutches for these cars. My car is just a bolt-on car making 350 RWHP. I mainly just drive it to and from work and jump on it a few times a week. I don't plan on racing it seriously anytime soon because it has the stock rearend in it.
So I was wondering what would be a recommended clutch kit. I can get a decent deal on a new Spec stage I and wondered what people thought of it. I called the local auto parts stores and they all sell kits including the flywheel and throw-out bearing. Has anyone installed an Auto Zone kit? Why do they all have flywheels? Every other kit I ever bought was only the clutch disc and pressure plate. Can't the factory flywheel be turned? Is the factory flywheel aluminum or steel?
I have a rattle when the clutch pedal is pushed in. I assume this is more likely the throw-out bearing than the pressure plate or disc, but don't know for sure.
I appreciate your input.
Thanks!
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#9
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Not to throw any fuel on the fire or anything, but an 800+ dollar clutch kit isn't the only answer. I actually ordered the Monster Stage 3 w/ Tick Master Cylinder and canceled the order and went with the Sachs unit. For all practical purposes, it does the same job.
I'm not racing my car, and it sounds like the OP isn't going to be either and there's really no reason to spend all that money on a race style puck clutch if he just needs a standard clutch.
I'm not racing my car, and it sounds like the OP isn't going to be either and there's really no reason to spend all that money on a race style puck clutch if he just needs a standard clutch.
its all a matter of opinion, but in my search the cost of getting the flywheel resurfaced, new TOB, new pilot bearing, and new slave, all came up to be around 500-650 anyway (ps- i paid 700 shipped for the premium lvl 3 kit)
#10
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Check out a LS7 clutch, alot cheaper than most aftermarket clutch's and will hold your power plus some with no problem. Also drives like stock. I just had one installed and picked it up this afternoon. Going to take it easy for the first couple hundred miles, then I'm going to see what it's made of.
#11
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I am currently on somewhat of a budget, in the process of buying house, so I need to watch what I spend. I would love to get the Monster or a Spec, especially with the aluminum option, but they are both out of my current price range, although I do appreciate the input.
Has anyone ever used the Spec stage 1?
Has anyone ever used the Spec stage 1?
#12
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I would recommend the Diamond Stage 1. It uses a disc very similar to the LS7, but with a stronger pressure plate. So it is definitely a step above the LS7 and only $369. Get the stock flywheel re-surfaced for $30-45 and you're ready to go. I am currently giving LS1Tech members free shipping. Check my sig for the website. Thanks
#13
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I would recommend the Diamond Stage 1. It uses a disc very similar to the LS7, but with a stronger pressure plate. So it is definitely a step above the LS7 and only $369. Get the stock flywheel re-surfaced for $30-45 and you're ready to go. I am currently giving LS1Tech members free shipping. Check my sig for the website. Thanks
Does that come with a TOB and pilot bearing? If not how much for them?
Thanks!
#14
It will bolt right in but you will need a LS2 flywheel. Lots of sponsers sell the kit which includes clutch, flywheel and pp. Check around and you can find them for 430.00 or so.
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-Jason
#16
Though I am all about sharing experiences I think that it is certainly worth noting that clutch life is relative to a number of factors. These include torque output vs. the capacity of the kit used, vehicle usage type, flatness of flywheel, driving style, installation, etc... That being said your can see varied life of any part in one vehicle or another or between one driver and another. For instance, I could ask how much mileage you get from your tires (assumeing you are using the same kind that I am) and the mileage will likely be different because we drive differently, in different condition, and with different styles.
Lot's of Speed, for the power output you mention and the usage type you have planned a stage 1 would be fine. Has your flywheel be resurfaced previously? If so then I suggest getting a new flywheel. We offer both billet steel and aluminum flywheels if you need one. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,
Lot's of Speed, for the power output you mention and the usage type you have planned a stage 1 would be fine. Has your flywheel be resurfaced previously? If so then I suggest getting a new flywheel. We offer both billet steel and aluminum flywheels if you need one. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,
#17
New Clutch...
I have done a few clutches in my life and like most have gone on these sites for advice. About a year ago I installed the LS7 clutch and started having pedal issues shortly after. I just took down my transmission to replace the slave cylinder and realized that 4 of the fingers on the pressure plate were bent and the flywheel and plate are toast. I did have the PP turned, etc. I have modified the engine a bit, but not to the extreme. I would suggest (knowing you are on a budget) to do it right the first time. I have used Centerforce clutches before and will this time to see how it goes. Kind of an expensive experiment, but I believe that you get what you pay for. Good luck and let us know what you chose and how it is.
#18
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I bought a clutch kit from ky clutch and am very satisfied so far. It was $310 shipped. It's not a race clutch or anything, but I think for my purposes it will be great. The only thing I can say is that the clutch pedal is slightly stiffer than stock but I have no problem with that because the LS6 clutch was light anyway.
I thought I had a problem with the clutch, called KY clutch, they were very helpful and said they would help me out. Turned out the poly tranny mount was making the car vibrate.
I thought I had a problem with the clutch, called KY clutch, they were very helpful and said they would help me out. Turned out the poly tranny mount was making the car vibrate.
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Zoom Street / Strip clutch from Advance Autoparts. $375.00 Pressure Plate, Disc, bushing, alignment tool, Slave cylinder. Pretty good deal and works well with my stock flywheel that was resurfaced at a local shop.
Not sure about how long it will last just yet and break-in was around 400-500 miles. Just replaced my master cylinder which I should have done in that whole process anyway and it seems to be holding up good so far. Pedal pressure is stiffer than stock but just enough to where it's still really comfortable to drive on the street. It grips super hard too!
Not sure about how long it will last just yet and break-in was around 400-500 miles. Just replaced my master cylinder which I should have done in that whole process anyway and it seems to be holding up good so far. Pedal pressure is stiffer than stock but just enough to where it's still really comfortable to drive on the street. It grips super hard too!
#20
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Zoom Street / Strip clutch from Advance Autoparts. $375.00 Pressure Plate, Disc, bushing, alignment tool, Slave cylinder. Pretty good deal and works well with my stock flywheel that was resurfaced at a local shop.
Not sure about how long it will last just yet and break-in was around 400-500 miles. Just replaced my master cylinder which I should have done in that whole process anyway and it seems to be holding up good so far. Pedal pressure is stiffer than stock but just enough to where it's still really comfortable to drive on the street. It grips super hard too!
Not sure about how long it will last just yet and break-in was around 400-500 miles. Just replaced my master cylinder which I should have done in that whole process anyway and it seems to be holding up good so far. Pedal pressure is stiffer than stock but just enough to where it's still really comfortable to drive on the street. It grips super hard too!