Ferg95 T/A

iTrader: (1)

This is going to be long...I am going to put in as much detail as possible I think that it may/will help. Ok I installed the trans after I got it rebuilt by TDP. I HIGHLY recommend them. Ok after many calls to Jason at TDP for help I got the trans back in and everything put back together and the dang think will NOT go into gear. It won't go in gear when the car is ON. But it does when the car is off it does it just fine/perfect! So I was advised to bleed the hydraulics for the clutch. So I was doing this and absolutely NO pressure going in or out. And the pedal just stuck to the floor. But after a while I got pressure going in..just like it was before...but the pedal still sticks to the floor. BUT if I just press the clutch in open the valve...close it and release the pedal it sticks to the floor...I pull it back up and if I don't open the valve anymore the pedal works normally. But if I crank the car and try and put it in gear it WON'T go. I bled it over 50 times with almost an entire quart of fluid. That is partially my fault becasue I am an idiot and didn't know/realize that the black "cup" in the clutch fluid reservoir doesn't have a hole in the bottom of it. So I ran in completely dry. But it has fluid in it now..And when I bleed it fluid comes out. I am not sure why this is happening. And advice will be helpful. I have ordered a master cylinder and am going to replace that and do the bleeding process all over again. Any thoughts?

Ferg95 T/A

iTrader: (1)

come on guys someone must have some form of idea.

ssr1

I just changed the clutch in my 2010 Camaro and had the problem of the pedal on the floor. I had to pull the pedal up and pump it by hand and then it worked fine. When I took the tranny out, I capped the supply line from the master cylinder to prevent total fluid loss.
In your case, it sounds like you have a lot of air in your system. The metod of bleeding in the 2010 Camaro service manual is to fill the system and apply a vacuum to the reservoir with something like a Mighty Vac and draw the air bubbles out.
Good luck.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

Get a Motive Power Bleeder and never look back..

Ferg95 T/A

iTrader: (1)

I am not able to get a power bleeder...one thing that I forgot to mention was when I pump the pedal and the pedal and it comes back out air bubbles come up into the reservoir and I was told by a mechanic that is probably because of the master cylinder...it may have a blown seal and is just sucking in more air...bottom line does anyone think the master cylinder "may" solve the problem

brians91formula

iTrader: (12)

I had a similar issue...try the easy things first and use a vacuum bleeder for the hydraulics. I have a feeling that is your problem. Also, what method are you currently using to bleed the clutch ?

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

There's a more effective procedure that has been posted here. You'll need a helper.

1.) With clutch pedal up, reservoir full of fresh DOT-3 brake fluid, reservoir cap properly tightened, no foot on pedal, crack open slave bleeder valve.
2.) Have assistant slowly and smoothly depress clutch pedal.
3.) Close/tighten slave bleeder valve when fluid flow begins to taper (clutch pedal at or near the floorboard.)
4.) Release clutch pedal...do not pull it up by hand.
5.) Top off clutch reservoir with fresh DOT-3 brake fluid, replace reservoir cap and snug it down.
6.) Pump pedal a few times (I do 5 cycles).
7.) Repeat from step 1.

After a few iterations of this, if you're still not getting good clutch release it's time to buy a Mity-Vac. Using the plastic conical tip in the Mity-Vac kit, you insert it firmly into the hole at the bottom of the reservoir and pull a vacuum. You'll usually see an air bubble or two exit the system via the Mity-Vac's clear hose.

Let us know how it goes!

Ferg95 T/A

iTrader: (1)

Is that before or after I change the MC. I will try that method...I really do not want to get a power bleeder or a mity-vac. I will actually try that method right now!!!

TDP

iTrader: (23)

Hey did you have any luck getting your car going? I know first hand the clutch hydraulics can be a real pain.

samb0ness

Me and a buddy changed his clutch a few weeks back. He had hydraulic problems before the clutch swap, but our situation was VERY similar to what you're describing. We changed the slaved cylinder with the same feeedback, and after changing the master, it did perfect immediately...